February may be the shortest month of the year, but it’s not short of happenings in the fashion world. From a shift in awards show style and an attempt at sustainability to a major new appointment at a renowned fashion house and the return of a beloved designer, catch up on the latest in the industry with our Fashion News Of The Month.
Former Celine Creative Director Phoebe Philo Set to Return to Fashion
After stepping away from her role as creative director of French fashion house Celine (then Céline) in 2017, Phoebe Philo has been much missed but seldom heard from. Renowned for her minimalist aesthetic, the British designer is rumoured to be launching her own label with an “eco slant and essentials focus”, according to WWD. Philo is yet to make an official announcement herself.
Raf Simons Joins Prada As Co-Creative Director
In an unprecedented move, Miuccia Prada, head designer of Prada, has announced that Belgian designer Raf Simons will become co-creative director of the Italian fashion house. According to a Prada press release, the two designers will share “equal responsibilities for creative input and decision making.” At a news conference held at Prada’s headquarters in Milan, Miuccia made it clear that the appointment had nothing to do with her eventual retirement, and was a strategy to adapt to the changing landscape of the fashion world. Simons echoed the sentiment, saying that “we have to re-look at how creativity can evolve in today’s fashion system.”
The Oscars Symbolise a Sartorial Shift for 2020
Early this month, celebrities took to the red carpet for the 92nd Academy Awards. The black tie event saw a step back from the harnesses and bright colour palettes of the late 2010s, and a move towards sharp tailoring in classic neutrals. Male celebrities in particular followed the black tie dress code in a traditional fashion, donning dark tuxedos. Those on the best dressed list include Brad Pitt in Brioni, Joaquin Phoenix in Stella McCartney (the same tux he’s pledged to wear for all award shows this year), Keanu Reeves in Dolce & Gabbana, and Leonardo DiCaprio in Giorgio Armani. A notable exception to the classic black tailoring of the night was (naturally) Timothée Chalamet in a navy Prada satin two piece zip-up suit, accessorised with a Cartier brooch.
Versace Hosts Its First Coed Show
Following in the footsteps of designers like Thom Browne, Gucci, and Bottega Venetta; Versace hosted its first coed shoe during Milan Fashion Week. Consisting of 91 looks, the show was replete with monochrome looks composed of black and white separates with touches of metallics.
BAFTA Push for Sartorial Sustainability Largely Ignored
This year, the BAFTA Awards requested that celebrities aim for sustainability in their clothing choices, explaining that “this awards season BAFTA are doing more than ever before to consider sustainability across its awards ceremonies, including inviting guests to ‘dress sustainably’”. However, as attendees took to the red carpet, it was evident that this request was primarily ignored, with most celebrities donning new or custom couture.
Notable adherents included Saoirse Ronan in an understated black Gucci gown made from satin offcuts, Daisy Ridley in an emerald Oscar de la Renta gown made with sustainably sourced fabric, and Kate Middleton in a gold Alexander McQueen dress that she had previously worn in 2012.
Ralph Lauren Back in April
After skipping NYFW, Ralph Lauren will bypass the fashion season altogether, instead holding a ‘special show’ for his Fall 2020 collection. A spokesperson for the American fashion company stated that “developing unique experiential shows continues to be a primary focus for the brand to engage consumers, maintain a series of freshness and add an element of surprise.”
Moschino Show Relocated to Paris
Whilst Moschino’s FW20 show was initially planned to be held in New York on February 8th, the Italian fashion house’s creative director Jeremy Scott decided to showcase his collection during his July couture show in Paris. The decision was attributed to Scott’s desire to “pay homage to the city that launched his design career.”