To say that SIHH is the mecca of the watchmaking universe is an understatement. Year on year, titans of time strive to challenge us with their latest collections, to make us marvel and stand humbly before innovations in horology that both stir the senses and delight one’s wrist. 2019 is no exception to this, and so we at Man of Many have toiled, nestled amongst the startling swiss mountains to bring you our favourite luxury watches at SIHH 2019 – Part 1.
A. Lange & Sohne
The Datograph perpetual tourbillon from A.Lange & Sohne is a gentle titan
The A. Lange & Sohne Datograph perpetual tourbillon is nothing short of a marvel. Gentler, yet no less confident than it’s platinum and black twin, this timepiece comes in a white or gold case, boasts a solid rose gold dial and whopping 729 part movement. With a confident 50-hour power reserve and applied white gold indexes, this piece is as functional as it is rare – there are only 100 available worldwide and considering its looks and thoughtful design, we can see why.
The Zeitwerk Date is a symphony of integration and legibility
Ushering in a completely new movement, the Zeitwerk date is completely futuristic in functionality, industrial in its looks and uncompromising in its quality. With a ‘somewhat modest’ 516 parts and ample 72-hour power reserve, this new piece from A. Lange & Sohne is at its core, a classic Zeitwerk piece with a few new twists. Note the addition of the date ring around the outer edge of the dial and digital display with Arabic numerals, both compliment each other perfectly.
The RICHARD LANGE JUMPING SECONDS is superior in every way
Made with science and technology in mind this timepiece with black dial and red accenting is truly a ‘less is more’ approach taken by the watchmakers at A.Lange & Sohne. This white-gold edition proclaims superior rate accuracy and eminent legibility thanks to a 390-part manually wound movement, dynamic crown and accompanying patented ZERO-RESET mechanism. This coupling allows for the reliable blocking and re-establishing of the flow of power – hence, ‘jumping seconds’.
LANGE 1 “25th Anniversary” is a classic reborn
A jubilee edition of A. Lange & Söhne’s best-known timepiece, the Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” piece is a classic reborn. Boasting a manually wound calibre L121.1 which was first introduced in 2015 and includes a precisely jumping outsize date display and a freely oscillating Lange balance spring, this watch is as tasteful as it is functional. With a power reserve of 72 hours, eight screwed gold chatons, and hand-engraved balance cock, there are more than enough features to warrant its celebratory namesake.
Richard Mille’s Collection Bonbon is a journey into ‘weird’
….and wonderful. Collection Bonbon from Richard Mille is a delectable trip into the realm of graphic, emotional and chromatic expression. Comprised of 10 models, each with an edition of 30 pieces, this tangy collection isn’t just visually stirring – it’s also highly functional. Take the RM 16-01 Automatic Réglisse. With a Skeletonised automatic-winding movement with hours, minutes, date and adjustable rotor geometry, along with semi-instantaneous date display, this watch is high-art meets high-legibility.
Whilst some art can be fragile, the RM 16-01 is certainly not. The baseplate and the bridges are crafted of grade 5 titanium: a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy, which enables the gear train to function effortlessly. Coupled with an electro-plasma treated alloy and the passing of rigorously set testing standards, there is more than meets the eye when it comes to the Bonbon collection – even if said eye is being ravaged by a spectrum of colours unseen before by man.
Baume and Mercier
The Clifton Baumatic COSC Blue is an instant classic
The Clifton Baumatic is the essential companion for aesthetes with assertive tastes who live in the constant pursuit of performance and innovation. The COSC model in blue, featuring a face that leisurely transforms from black to oxford blue, sets its wearer apart. Powered by the BM13 version Baumatic calibre, this piece combines performance and technical achievement with refined design logic. This watch can be bought with or without certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, also known as COSC certification, allowing watch enthusiasts to revel in the superior quality of their new timepiece.
The Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar is an exquisite ode to the past
Baume and Mercier pays homage to their 188 years of watchmaking experience with the Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar. The piece’s refined design incorporates the BM13 Baumatic movement with the perpetual calendar, creating a watch that effortlessly transcends ‘passing trends’. The captivating face indicates the date, the day of the week, the month and the phases of the moon, all while self-adjusting for leap years and the varying lengths of months – making it a timepiece that’s almost smarter than its wearer.
The H2O – a crossover of modern innovation and daring design
The H20 isn’t so much a watch as it is a three-dimensional sculpture. From any angle, this watch is a sight to behold, utilising space and depth in a way that few brands have dared to before them. It’s micro-blasted, stainless steel bridges with polished, locked internal angles and 192-hour power reserve will ensure precise timekeeping at every turn. Visually embracing and celebrating the tracking of time, the H20 is said to encapsulate the multiple layers of the HYT house by allowing its many contradictions to complement one another – heritage and innovation, lines and curves, the present and the future.
The H1.0 is the watch your great-grandson will be wearing
Step into the future with the new H1.0 from HYT. A hybrid of both the H2o and Ho, the H1.0 features a brawny stainless steel case juxtaposed with delicate satin finishes and a domed sapphire crystal outer. Its manual winding mechanical movement with a 65-hour power reserve ensures the sleek exterior is complemented by its technical superiority. Despite its towering height and, let’s say ‘unique’ look, HYT promises that it is extremely comfortable and wears surprisingly subtle on the wrist.
The Excalibur Huracan can only be wielded by those who are worthy
Just as the Lamborghini is bold and in your face, so too is the Excalibur Huracan. And just as the iconic motor vehicle, it takes a certain kind of man to wear this watch. Featuring a modern calibre with 12° angled balance escapement and an oscillating rim, the rotor wields the same design as the Lambo’s wheels, recalling the V10 engine of the Lamborghini Huracan supercar.
If the Lamborghini was a watch, what would it look like? The Excalibur One-Off.
Taking it up a notch, the Excalibur One-Off is truly (and literally) one of a kind. A love child of Lamborghini, Pirrelli and Roger Dubuis, this unit features an utterly unique band, face and dedicated calibre that will only ever be used for this design. With a RD106 90° V-shape double flying tourbillon, a patented Lamborghini-style pusher for changing functions and lightweight strap it’s no wonder this extremely limited edition watch has already sold for over $1 million.
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