With an allocation of just 86 pieces worldwide and a price tag of CHF86,000, it’s unlikely you’ll ever get your hands on the new F.P. Journe Vagabondage Gold, but that won’t stop us from trying. The latest 45.2mm iteration is a callback to the brand’s unique past, bearing a slight similarity to 2004’s platinum-cased Vagabondage, albeit with a few sharp upgrades. This time around, F.P. Journe has added an updated manual-wind calibre 1504.2 movement, housed within the solid 18-carat gold case. The iconic rounded numerals still feature prominently, alongside the host of subtle luxury highlights which are certain to delight collectors. That in itself is a good thing, as Journe also confirmed that existing collectors will be offered first dibs on the watch, with this release bearing matching serial numbers to previous Vagabondage releases.

Perhaps the most interesting watch unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, the new Streamliner Chronograph ‘Blacker Than Black’ from H. Moser & Cie. is a true head-turner. The new timepiece is covered with Vantablack, the blackest substance ever produced artificially, from its dial to its case, right down to its integrated bracelet. The result is truly unique. Pictured against a black surface, the watch disappears into its background, indistinguishable to the naked eye, except for its hour and minute hands. Composed of carbon nanostructures and absorbing 99.965% of light, Vantablack is an extremely delicate substance to handle and as a result, H. Moser & Cie. has confirmed the unique piece is still too fragile to be worn on the wrist. That being said, it’s still an incredible feat of ingenuity.

Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication, the new Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon combines a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. Named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat, the timepiece follows on from Grand Seiko’s T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept that was unveiled in 2020. This time around, all 340 components of the calibre have been re-examined to create the calibre 9ST1, a smaller but more accurate version of its predecessor. Arriving in a case constructed from both Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium, the new Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon might just be Grand Seiko’s most innovative timepiece ever, and that really is saying something.

Cartier’s style of watchmaking has been traditionally to the point. Sharp and elegant but somewhat reserved, the fine jewellery maker’s releases have a certain air to them that few other brands can boast, and the new Santos Dumont is a perfect encapsulation of this. First designed for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, the modern aviation watch is conservative by nature, however, in 2022, Cartier has turned the screws. The 43.5mm timepiece has been reborn in rose gold, with a unique beige lacquer dial and matching bezel. Far from an obvious colour choice, the new palette stands out against its contemporary siblings, giving it an unapologetically eye-catching aesthetic. Of course, the classic thin square case design features prominently, alongside Cartier’s manual winding, manufacture 430 MC, but the neutral finish to the dial and bezel give this piece a refreshing look that is subtle in its WOW factor.

Square watches are back, baby. With TAG Heuer putting its faith back into the Monaco, Hublot is taking a sharp new approach to arguably its most iconic timepiece. For the first time ever, Hublot has unveiled a square version of the Big Bang, marking a stark departure from its traditional rounded models. Importantly, Hublot has maintained a modular construction for this iteration, comprised of a central housing complemented by an upper and lower plate, a design language continued on the dial. At 42mm, the new Square Bang is far from small, with the sharp-edge release delivered in either solid titanium, black ceramic, or King Gold, and two-blend titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. Inside each, you’ll find the HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement, a stunning piece of technology that comes complete with 354 components. Simply outstanding.

Italian Maison Panerai is renowned for its connection to the ocean and environment, but for 2022, the brand has doubled down. Taking its awe-inspiring Submersible and reimagining it for a modern age, the brand has unveiled the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel, an ultra-sustainable adaption with all the bells and whistles. Crafted from eSteel, Panerai’s sustainably-sourced case material, the new lineup arrives in three matching dial and bezel colours: Verde Smeraldo, Grigio Roccia, and Blu Profondo. The iconic unidirectional rotating dive bezel is still on display, with Panerai’s classic P.900 movement powering the all-new iteration. Importantly however, the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a bold path to a new future. A total of 72g of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro is made from recycled materials, representing more than half of the complete weight of the watch. Truly, Panerai is working towards the bigger picture and the new eSteel lineup is a great way to kick this off.

Montblanc’s approach to Watches & Wonders for 2022 has been firmly in the chronograph space, and we’re thankful for it. The Maison’s new 1858 Monopusher Chronograph lineup was an unexpected winner, arriving with three new timepieces, each representing a different aspect of classic luxury. Diving a bit deeper, the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88 is a standout piece that features an 18k white-gold fluted rotating bezel, complete with a signature red arrow. The 42mm stainless steel timepiece is powered by the MB 13.21 movement, however, it’s the design choices on the dial that really steal the show. Capturing Montblanc’s eye for detail, the new Chronograph is one of the most aesthetically pleasing releases of the year, a feat carried through to the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE18 and the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58.

It’s no secret that Roger Dubuis makes incredible watches, but the new Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon is something else entirely. Haute Horology at its finest, the new timepiece takes aim at the iconic King Arthur story by placing the manual-wind calibre RD115 tourbillon movement, the first central tourbillon movement created by Roger Dubuis, in the middle of the 45mm dial. Surrounding it are 12 knight figures sculpted from pink gold, with the time shown via a pair of gold markers. Limited to just eight pieces worldwide, the new Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon is the true embodiment of Roger Dubuis’ fine balance between art and watchmaking excellence. Unbelievable, to say the least.

Another stunning release from F.P. Journe for 2022, The Automatique arrives in either a 40mm or 42mm case, in your choice of platinum or 18k 6N gold. Best of all, the updated timepiece now boasts the calibre 1300.3 movement, which dishes out an incredible 160 hours power reserve. It’s the first time the new movement has featured in the new catalogue and for The Automatique, it comes with an off-centred rotor that winds the movement unidirectionally.

Parmigiani’s Tonda PF lineup is one of the brand’s best-loved and for Watches & Wonders 2022, the Maison took a bold new approach. Removing the date window and adding a central rose gold 12-hour hand, the new Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante has a sleeker design language than its predecessor, along with some reinvented functionality. The new 4omm timepiece is a GMT of sorts, with a press of the pusher at seven o’clock jumping the white gold hour hand forward by one hour. Impressively, the 18-carat rose gold hour hand remains set to your ‘home’ base, allowing you to always keep track of your base location. Once the trip is complete, you simply hit the pusher at three o’clock crown and the white-gold hand will return to its position on top of the rose gold hand, at “home” time.