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Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 – Part 1

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By Nick Hall - Guide

Published: 9 Apr 2024, Last Updated: 18 Apr 2024

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It’s finally here. After 12 long months of teases and leaks, horology’s biggest event, Watches & Wonders, has landed in Geneva. A gathering of the biggest names in watchmaking and jewellery, the trade show offers a rare glimpse at the incredible novelties set to hit showrooms in the coming months, alongside a host of one-off pieces you won’t be able to find anywhere.

From outrageous new models from Rolex to the glitzy releases from the LVMH-backed TAG Heuer, Watches & Wonders 2024 has already made a big splash and we’re only one day in. With the event running from April 9 – April 15, there will be a host of impressive new pieces unveiled and we’ll be taking care of all of them. Here, we’re charting the very best watches from Watches & Wonders 2024, but you can keep up to date with our rolling coverage here. Let’s dive in.

Here, we’ll be following the prior day’s events, highlighting some of the most interesting, notable and impressive pieces. So, hang on and enjoy the wild ride that is Watches & Wonders 2024!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
• Reference Number: Ref. 126710GRNR / Ref. 1267GRNR
• Diameter: 40mm
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Calibre: Calibre 3285
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: 10,400 CHF

To kick off Watches & Wonders 2024, Rolex unveiled two new variations of the classic Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Both feature the stunning 24-hour graduated two-colour cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic that debuted last year, but there are some important distinctions. Among them, is the choice of either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet.

Like its predecessors, the latest 40mm models see the ‘GMT-Master II’ inscription appear on the black lacquered dial in the brand’s signature green, alongside the triangle-tipped 24-hours hand. Inside, the GMT-Master II models are equipped with calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement that serves up a stellar 70-hour power reserve.

Obviously, any new Rolex release is going to cause a stir, but the new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II does poise an enticing premise. At 40mm, it lands in the traditional GMT sweet spot, and the choice of Oyster or Jubilee bracelet is a nice addition to the offer. Both Oyster bracelet and Jubilee bracelet releases will be available at Rolex boutiques and are priced at 10,400 CHF, but you best be quick.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 White Gold

• Brand: IWC Schaffhausen
• Model: Portugieser Perpetual Calendar White Gold
• Reference Number: Ref. IW503703, Ref. IW503704, Ref. IW503702, Ref. IW50370
• Diameter: 44.4mm
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Calibre: IWC Manufacture calibre 52616
• Power Reserve: 7 days

For the world’s pre-eminent watch exhibition, IWC wasted no time reintroducing a classic. The iconic Swiss/American brand used Watches & Wonders 2024 to relaunch the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44, with four new editions arriving in either 18-carat armour gold or 18-carat white gold.

A staple of the IWC lineup, the Portugieser collection has long been heralded as a true purist’s watch and the Perpetual Calendar is arguably its most famous iteration. Originally developed by former IWC Schaffhausen head watchmaker Kurt Klaus in the 1980s, this version of the timepiece is famous for its unique take on the moonphase function, which features a ‘double moon’ display that shows both northern and southern hemispheres.

For the 2024 editions, IWC has again returned to the drawing board to redesign the piece and the results are dazzling, in every sense of the word. On the 18-carat white gold side of the equation, the Ref. IW503703 features a Horizon blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, while the Ref. IW503704 has a Dune-coloured dial, gold-plated hands, and gold applique.

For gold lovers, IWC has also introduced two models constructed with 18-carat Armor Gold; a material that IWC claims is considerably harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold. Specifically, the Ref. IW503702 has an Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques, while the Ref. IW503701 has a silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques.

One major upgrade to point out here is the new case design. IWC has always been on the chunkier side and the brand’s Perpetual Calendar models have often run the risk of being entirely too large. Looking at the latest pieces in the flesh, you immediately notice how much slimmer the side profile is and how much lighter these new editions are. Thankfully, IWC has compromised on the movement to make this happen, dropping the 52616 calibre movement, which dishes out a whopping seven days power reserve, into each new piece.

Function-wise, the new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 is absolutely stacked, with date, day, month, year displays, power reserve displays and perpetual moon phase for both northern and southern hemispheres. Sure, it’s a mouthful, but IWC could very well have dropped the watch of the expo on day one. Simply outstanding.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Chronograph
• Reference Number: Ref. CBS2216.BA0041
• Diameter: 39mm
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Movement: Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-00)
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Price: 6,500CHF

In a move that has surprised no one, TAG Heuer has taken to Watches & Wonders 2024 to reveal a swathe of new Carrera models and none more impressive than the Carrera Chronograph. Continuing the brand’s recent foray into the world of vintage-themed timepieces, best typified by the glassbox models of 2023, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is a faithful reimagining of the late 1960s 7753 model pioneered by Jack Heuer himself.

That original Heuer Carrera model had a hand-wound Valjoux chronograph movement, a silvered dial with black subdials and double stops at 12 so it was clear when the chronograph was zeroed. For the 2023 edition, TAG Heuer has taken that straightforward design aesthetic into the modern age, adorning the new (and perfectly sized at 39mm) Carrera Chronograph with black azuré subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock that contrast with the silver sunray-brushed dial, creating the signature bi-compax panda look.

As someone who has seen a lot of Carreras in recent times, it’s quite remarkable how TAG is managing to roll out new and interesting pieces that still fit the lineups DNA. The addition of red-lacquered sub-dial hands is such an enticing touch that I genuinely wouldn’t have expected to see, however, it feels like a perfect homage to the racing heritage of the brand and the Carrera model itself.

Interestingly, the maison says that the watch has been “redeveloped for seamless flow over the tachymeter scale that runs around the dial edge and into the case”. Of course, inside, TAG Heuer has turned to the Heuer 02 movement, a staple amongst the recent Carrera models, which features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and a sturdy 80-hour power reserve.

It must be said, TAG Heuer’s recent focus on the Carrera lineup hasn’t exactly come out of the blue, with this year marking the 60th anniversary of the model, however, the approach has been entirely surprising. Each new release appears to pull something different from the archive books and this stainless steel model has absolutely nailed the size, aesthetic and design fans know and love. TAG Heuer has certainly thrown down the gauntlet.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: Overseas Tourbillon
• Reference Number: Ref. 6000V/210T-H032
• Diameter: 42.5mm
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Movement: Calibre 2160
• Power Reserve: 80 hours

For the first time, Vacheron Constantin is offering the iconic Overseas Tourbillon in an all-titanium model. According to the brand, the new Overseas Tourbillon is constructed entirely from the material, from case to bracelet, crown to bezel. Visually, it is stunning.

The translucent titanium blue-lacquered dial features a sunburst satin-brushed flange that effortlessly highlights the double-minute track. Set against the titanium case material, it makes for an undeniably elegant release that exudes the same level of luxury Vacheron Constantin fans have come to know and love.

Inside, the new 188-parat ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 2160, a movement that measures just 5.65mm thick, powers the tourbillon complication. Operating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, this addition displays the hours and minutes as well as the small seconds on the Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon carriages via a blued fastening screw.

A true feat of watchmaking ingenuity, design and innovation, the 42.5mm Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a near-perfect addition to the emblematic range. It’s a piece that feels innately elegant, powerful and fittingly refined.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Nuit and Lady Jour Nuit

• Brand: Van Cleef & Arpels
• Model: Lady Arpels Jour Nuit / Lady Jour Nuit
• Reference Number: Ref. CBS2216.BA0041
• Diameter: 38mm / 33mm
• Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement featuring a Day/Night module

Whenever Watches & Wonders rolls around, you can be certain that Van Cleef & Arpels will do something out of the ordinary. Never one to rest on its laurels, the unique French icon has crafted an incredible legacy of refined elegance, offset with innovative techniques and world-class manufacturing. The maison’s 2024 Jour Nuit watches are every bit the embodiment of Van Cleef & Arpel’s ethos.

First introduced in 2008, the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch is a feat of high jewellery engineering, characterised by its delicate and intricate dial designs and animations. This year, the maison has dropped two new variations, in 38mm and 33mm sizes, that reportedly took three years to complete.

On the Murano aventurine glass dials, a diamond-paved moon and stars chase the sun, embellished with snow-set yellow sapphires, or alternatively guilloché yellow gold in a wildly impressive display of perpetual movement. This comes by way of the 24-hour rotating disc, which enables the consistent revolution to take place. Throw in the mother-of-pearl shrouds which work to frame the horizon and you’ve got a remarkable piece of design and craftsmanship. But we would expect nothing less from the fabled luxury house.

Panerai Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio PAM01507

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio PAM01507
• Reference: Ref. PAM01507
• Diameter: 42mm
• Calibre: P.900/GMT calibre
• Water-Resistance: 500m
• Power Reserve: 72 hours

In the lead-up to the 37th America’s Cup in Barcelona later this year, Panerai has teamed up with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team to unveil the Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio PAM01507. Arriving in a 42mm case made from Grade 5 titanium, the latest instalment in the much-loved Submersible lineup continues a decades-long connection between the Italian watchmaker and the art of sailing, bolstered by the addition of a GMT function.

Inside, the PAM1507 is powered by the automatic P.900/GMT movement, an automatic calibre with a three-day power reserve that measures just 4.2 mm thick. As Panerai explains, that power reserve is delivered by a bidirectional oscillating weight and stored in a single barrel. It’s an impressive feat of watchmaking, especially when you consider this timepiece was primarily designed to withstand the elements, hence the 500-metre water resistance.

From my perspective, this is perhaps the most refined model in the Submersible lineup. The  contrast of the bright red GMT hand against the blue sun-brushed dial and flange feels innately luxurious, and I genuinely think Panerai has nailed the blue matt ceramic disk that underpins the unidirectional rotating titanium bezel. 

The Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio PAM1507 comes on either a blue bi-material option highlighted by a red stripe or a second rubber strap that boasts a uniform blue tone. The new Panerai GMT model will be available exclusively in boutiques from September 2024.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon

• Brand: IWC Schaffhausen
• Model: Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon
• Reference Number: Ref. IW545901
• Diameter: 42.4mm
• Water Resistance: 60m
• Calibre: IWC Manufacture calibre 81925
• Power Reserve: 84 hours

If you thought IWC Schaffhausen was going to play it safe this year, you certainly thought wrong. In addition to its stellar lineup of Perpetual Calendar releases, the brand also announced the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon, a bonkers new watch that pushes the boundaries of IWC’s technical capabilities.

Combining an 18-carat Armor Gold case with an obsidian lacquered dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, the new watch typifies everything that IWC is going for this year. Subtle, refined and yet still loaded with a flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, you can’t deny the brand’s efforts. As with all tourbillons, the movement places the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once every minute. This constant rotation reduces the influence of gravity on the oscillating system of the watch, thereby increasing its accuracy.

From a design perspective, the new timepiece doesn’t stray too far from the Portugieser path and for that, we must applaud IWC. Too often you see watchmakers lose sight of what makes their collections special, attempting to cram too many functions into one piece and sacrificing functionality in the process, What IWC has done remarkably well with this watch is ensure that the tourbillon movement adds accuracy without upping the weight. The watchmaker claims the new flying tourbillon movement weighs just 0.675 grams in total, which is an incredible feat of engineering in and of itself.

TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
• Reference Number: Ref. CBW2181.FC8322/Ref. CBW2182.FC8339
• Diameter: 41mm
• Water Resistance: 30m
• Movement: Calibre TH81-00
• Power Reserve: 65 hours (chrono off) / 55 hours (chrono on)
• Price: 135’000 CHF (retail) / 165’000 CHF (customisation)

In the realm of TAG Heuer watches, the Monaco stands alone. A unique design, case shape and history combine for the ultimate in racing-inspired horology but for Watches & Wonders 2024, TAG Heuer may have taken things too far. The new Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph is a titanium beast loaded with more functions than you can poke a stick at. Let’s take a look.

The beating heart of the timepiece is the newly launched TH81-00 mechanical split-seconds chronograph calibre, an innovation crafted entirely in titanium. Being my first time viewing the movement in the flesh, I was genuinely shocked by the lightness of the piece. It almost didn’t feel real, but the satisfying tick that invariably sprung from the watch proved this was indeed a working model and when put into action, it didn’t disappoint.

This split-seconds function, also called “rattrapante” in French is capable of measuring two separate time intervals concurrently. With TAG Heuer’s established connection to the racetrack, it’s no secret why the brand has dipped its toes into this arena, but it didn’t come easy. According to the maison’s watchmakers, the movement is the “pinnacle of our dedication to pushing the boundaries of precision and complexity”.

“TAG Heuer has always been committed to pushing the boundaries of timekeeping, and with the introduction of the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, we are not only embracing our rich heritage but also redefining the future of Haute Horlogerie d’Avant-Garde,” Julien Tornare, CEO of TAG Heuer said. “This timepiece is the epitome of precision and innovation, a perfect fusion of tradition and cutting-edge technology, showcasing our expertise in watchmaking craftsmanship.”

Even the case has been redeveloped, with TAG Heuer fusing titanium and sapphire together to create a timepiece that weighs only 85 grams. In essence, the new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is the embodiment of a brand firing on all cylinders.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition

• Brand: Grand Seiko
• Model: Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
• Reference: Ref. SBGC275 
• Movement: Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96
• Diameter: 44.5mm
• Water-Resistance: 200m
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$20,000

After the success of the Kodo Tourbillon, Grand Seiko has earned the right to rest on its laurels, but that simply isn’t in the Japanese watchmaker’s nature. For Watches & Wonders 2024, the brand has unveiled a new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT that features a dial that can change colours. 

Inspired by the Hotaka mountain range that rises in the Shinshu region of central Japan, the dial of the new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition exhibits a different hue depending on the angle of view. According to the brand, this incredible result was achieved through a new patented dial manufacturing process known as “Optical Multilayer Coating”. 

“Instead of traditional techniques to colour the dial, the new technology uses a physical vapour deposition process,” Grand Seiko said. “Several layers of nanoscale film create an effect in which the dial exhibits a different hue depending on the angle of view.”

As remarkable as that it is, it’s just one of many reasons why Grand Seiko’s new GMT deserves its chocolates. The timepiece is powered by the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, which Grand Seiko explains is a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86. Additionally, the angularity of the titanium case and the claw-like, hairline-finished lugs, make this piece an undeniably aesthetic release. 

The new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition is limited to just 700 pieces worldwide. It is priced at AUD$20,000 and will be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers worldwide from July 2024.

Zenith DEFY Skyline Chronograph

• Brand: Zenith
• Model: DEFY Skyline Chronograph
• Reference Number: Ref. 03.9500.3600/51.I001, Ref. 03.9500.3600/01.I001, Ref. 03.9500.3600/21.I001
• Diameter: 42mm
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Price: 12,900 CHF

For the past few years, Zenith has been pumping out DEFY Skylines like they are going out of fashion and 2024 is no exception. This time around, the heritage brand has again revisited the popular lineup for three new chronographs that don’t necessarily push the boundaries in terms of design, but certainly continue Zenith’s legacy as a movement producer.

The latest timepieces are essentially a vessel for the El Primero 3600 automatic, Zenith’s newly unveiled automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, which arrives complete with a 1/10th of a second chronograph function. It’s an important element, not simply to this watch, but also to Zenith’s plans for the future. The El Primero is widely regarded as one of the most seminal movements ever created and the necessity to innovate has not been lost on the brand.

The new calibre’s high-frequency rate of 5Hz (36’000 vibrations per hour) is the real catalyst for change, providing a 1/10th of a second chronograph function. The development’s open star-shaped oscillating weight is also bidirectional winding offering up a solid, but not ground-breaking 60 hour power reserve.

Admittedly, I had hoped Zenith would stray from the beaten DEFY Skyline lineup path, but these are certainly the best-looking models the brand has released for some time. The combination of the octagonal case, multi-sided bezel and sharp case lines feels more harmonious here than in previous years and in a sense, it feels like a fitting crescendo to a DEFY Skyline-dominated few years.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

• Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
• Model: Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar
• Reference: Ref. Q114258J / Ref. Q1142510 / Ref. Q1142501 / Ref. Q114842J
• Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868
• Diameter: 39mm
• Water-Resistance: 50m
• Power Reserve: 70 hours

In the realm of ultra-thin watches, Piaget and Bulgari have cornered the market but perennial stalwart Jaeger-LeCoultre is also fighting the battle of the bulge. For Watches & Wonders 2024, the grand Maison has reinterpreted its iconic Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar model, slimming the profile to just 9.2mm thick, all while bumping the power reserve numbers up.

Four new variations have been unveiled in eggshell and silver sunray, as well as a new model with a gradient midnight blue sunray dial that perfectly contrasts its pink gold case. Each model has copped a serious upgrade to its dial design and layout, most notably with the starry sky of the moon phase display, which appears more intricate this time around. Additionally; the applied hour markers have been elongated; and each facet of the Dauphine hands has a different finish – polished and satin.

Inside each of the 39mm Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar models, Jaeger-LeCoultre has fitted the Calibre 868 movement, a modernised take on the brand’s revered 2013 perpetual calendar movement. According to JLC, “the latest-generation Calibre 868 features a new escapement and pallets – reconstructed in a slightly modified shape, they minimise friction and thus consume less energy – and offers a robust power reserve of 70 hours”.

To me, managing to pack in a perpetual calendar and moon phase movement into any watch is a feat of ingenuity, but to do so with ergonomics in mind is entirely noteworthy. Where other perpetual calendars are big and clunky, sitting too far off the wrist, I found when I put this new model on, it seamlessly wrapped around comfortably.

The elongated lugs ensured that it didn’t feel like I was wearing a spaceship on my wrist, a feat further compounded by the deliberate 39mm case size. As you would expect, any new Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece will be discussed ad nauseam, but the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar truly is a work of art.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

• Brand: Bell & Ross
• Model: BR 03 Cyber Ceramic
• Reference: BR03-CYBER-CE
• Movement: BR-CAL.383
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Water-Resistance: 50 m
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Price: AUD$21,300

You’ve probably seen the ‘Gameday Stealth Bomber’ TikTok, in which a panel of football commentators come over all giddy as a B-2 stealth bomber undertakes a flyby. Well, we can imagine this watch eliciting a similar response among watch and aircraft enthusiasts, drawing inspiration as it does from the design of stealth aircraft to create a timepiece that you won’t see coming. 

As the name suggests, this BR 03 reference is crafted from sturdy yet lightweight ceramic, boasting an openworked design, intended as a nod to the concepts of invisibility and stealth. With its BR-CAL.383 movement having been reworked into this 3D skeleton incarnation, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic is a timepiece that plainly exhibits the skills of Bell & Ross’ talented craftspeople. Plus, to better complement the sleek (i.e. stealthy) look of the overall design, the watch’s lugs have been removed, and instead, the housing for the rubber strap has been cut out of the volume of the case. 

Limited to just 500 pieces, this tribute to mankind’s most advanced feats of aviation engineering is a real head-turner, much like the aircraft that inspired it. 

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