18 Best Watch Releases of 2023

Make no mistake, 2023 was always meant to be a landmark year on the watch calendar. With Blancpain ushering in the 70th anniversary of its iconic Fifty Fathoms lineup and OMEGA counting down the days until the Paris 2024 Olympics, watch fans were at a fever pitch before the year even began, but no one could have predicted what came next. While the world’s eyes were set on the follow-up to last year’s ridiculous MoonSwatch, mid-tier favourite Longines swooped the pack, releasing an incredible collection of heritage timepieces that simply could not be ignored. And it wasn’t alone.

Best Watch Releases of 2023

Our list of the best watch releases of 2023 includes the following.

• Best Divers Watch: Longines HydroConquest GMT
• Best Dress Watch: TAG Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary
• Best Manufacture: Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer
• Best Field Watch: Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition
• Best Value: Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

Now we’ve rounded up our favourites, let’s check out the full list.

Longines Legend Diver 39

• Brand: Longines
• Model: Legend Diver
• Reference: L3.764.4.50
• Diameter: 39mm
• Water-resistance: 300m
• Calibre: L888 self-winding mechanical movement
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$5,300

After a knockout year in 2022, affordable luxury favourite Longines continued its hot streak with a run of heritage-inspired pieces, not the least of which being the Legend Diver 39. Taking inspiration from the original 1959 Legend Diver which proved to be such a horological landmark, the latest iteration brought the line into the modern age. This sleeker 39mm model boasts the highly recognisable super-compressor case with an internal rotating disc and two screw-down crowns, making it arguably one of the brand’s most robust watches. Inside, it was a similar story.

The Legend Diver is powered by an exclusive Longines L888.6 calibre that comes equipped with a silicon balance spring and offers a magnetic resistance 10 times that of the ISO 764 benchmark standard, as well as a power reserve of up to 72 hours. From the moment we locked eyes with this piece, we knew it was going to be a winner. Recognising the 39mm sweet spot and leveraging its unique aquatic history was the perfect recipe for success, so it’s little wonder the Longines Legend Diver ended up on our list of the best watches of 2023.

TAG Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary
• Reference: CBK221H.FC8317
• Movement: Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic
• Diameter: 39mm
• Case: Steel Polished
• Availability: 600 units
• Price: AUD$10,650

TAG Heuer was another watchmaker that turned to the archives this year, arguably even more successfully than Longines. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the original 1963 Carrera Panamericana, the St Imier-born enterprise unveiled a new heritage edition that oozed with vintage charm.

Revealed as part of LVMH Watch Week 2023, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition arrived complete with a ‘panda’ dial that effortlessly harked back to the days of James Hunt and Mick Jagger. Like its predecessor, the 39mm timepiece featured black stripes down the central hands and hour markers, along with double stops at 12, and of course, black counters with high-contrast white markings.

In a nice twist, it even copped the vintage Heuer logo, which was still in use back in 1963 when Jack Heuer first introduced the 2447 SN. Inside, the 21st-century approach is on full display with the sapphire crystal case back revealing the Heuer 02, TAG Heuer’s 80-hour in-house automatic chronograph calibre. A seriously stunning piece of vintage-inspired kit, the 60th Anniversary Carrera was undoubtedly one of the most remarkable watches to drop this year.

Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

• Brand: Hamilton
• Model: Khaki Field Expedition
• Diameter: 37mm
• Movement: H-10 automatic movement
• Power reserve: 80-hours
• Water resistance: 100m
• Price: AUD$1,825

Adventure watch specialist Hamilton took its best-loved collection in a more robust direction this year, unveiling the new Khaki Field Expedition. When it was released in September, the sturdy-looking field watch offered a range of upgraded functionalities and design elements, including a nifty compass design on the bi-directional rotating compass bezel that nodded to the collection’s military heritage. While Hamilton did drop a bunch of dial and diameter variations, the 37mm model was easily my favourite.

Sleek and small, the compact proportions of the brushed stainless steel case made for an enticing premise. Throw in an H-10 automatic movement that guarantees the Khaki Field Expedition’s precision while also providing a stellar 80-hours power reserve, and you’ve got yourself a rugged tool watch worthy of the Hamilton name.

Tudor Black Bay 54

• Brand: Tudor
• Model: Black Bay 54
• Reference: M79000N-0001
• Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5400 (COSC)
• Diameter: 37mm
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 200m
• Price: AUD$5,580

The Black Bay family has always been a favourite with watch fans but this year, Tudor got the formula just right. Taking advantage of the trend for smaller watches, the Black Bay lineup does include a few dainty numbers, but the Tudor Black Bay 54 37mm ref. M79000N-0001 was hard to go past. With a classic dive watch aesthetic and a hint of playful gold on the rotating bezel, the brand managed to breathe new life into a heritage design without going overboard.

The wearable daily driver was powered by the manufacture calibre MT5400 (COSC), a self-winding mechanical movement with a bi-directional rotor system. Admittedly, this piece was far from ground-breaking, but there is something about a quality dive watch that manages to endure. Simply stunning.

Longines HydroConquest GMT

• Brand: Longines
• Model: HydroConquest GMT
• Reference: L3.790.4.56.6
• Movement: L844 self-winding automatic
• Diameter: 41mm
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Water resistance: 300m
• Price: AUD$4,575

Arguably Longines’ best release of 2023, the HydroConquest GMT was an ll-aquatic triumph. Featuring a redesigned case, a new GMT movement and a choice of four colourways, the latest timepiece promised a lot but somehow managed to deliver on all fronts. As our own Lee Smith rightly pointed out, a part of the HydroConquest line, this latest addition includes the key attributes of a modern dive watch, including 300M water resistance and a screw-down crown.

It maintained the elegant sports watch aesthetic of the original 2007 models and the stainless steel case remained at a comfortable 41mm wide. Perhaps most impressive of all, Longines has managed to add the functionality and design language without inflating the price. Ranging from just AUD$4,400, the Longines HydroConquest GMT wasn’t just good value, it was a bonafide steal.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph Panda

• Brand: Seiko
• Model: 100th Anniversary Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph Limited Edition
• Reference: SRQ049
• Calibre: Calibre 8R48, Automatic Chronograph
• Diameter: 42.0mm
• Thickness: 14.6mm
• Power reserve: 45 hours
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100m)
• Price: AUD$4,200

I may have already labelled it the best-value panda dial on the market, but there’s no denying the latest o Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph from Japanese icon Seiko is something special. Unveiled as part of the Japanese watchmaker’s 2023 novelties, the dual timepieces were a modern reimagining of one the brand’s most faithful servants; the 1972 Seiko 6138-8020 “Panda” chronograph.

The awkwardly named Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph Limited Edition SRQ049 was an absolute standout watch release in 2023, courtesy of its unique dial layout and functionality. Looking straight out of the ’70s racing playbook, the timepiece arrived with a matte black dial and bright silver accents. Inside, it was powered by the Calibre 8R48, the same chronograph movement we’ve seen in the more recent Presage pieces. And at AUD$4,200, it’s no surprise why it has garnered a reputation as one of the best watches of 2023.

Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

• Brand: Swatch x Blancpain
• Model: Scuba Fifty Fathoms
• Diameter: 42.3mm
• Thickness: 14.4 mm
• Movement: SISTEM51 mechanical movement (self-winding)
• Power reserve: 90-hour power reserve.
• Water resistance: 91m
• Price: AUD$630

It may not have lived up to the hype of 2022’s MoonSwatch, but the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms release was no less charming. Waterproof all the way down to ‘Fifty Fathoms’ or 300ft (91 metres), the bioceramic timepiece took the same legibility, secured rotating bezel, and anti-magnetic protection that we experienced when we dived with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms last year and put it in a budget-friendly bracket.

As our own Ben McKimm outlined in September, all five watches in the non-limited collection were powered by the in-house Sistem51 mechanical movement and arrived in colours themed on five oceans and the nudibranchs (sea slugs) that live in them. A bit of a price jump from last year’s collaboration, the Swatch x Blancpain releases were a bit more of a niche offering, but for dive watch fans, the hyper-colour pieces were a sight for sore eyes.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 24 Hours of Le Mans

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Daytona Cosmograph
• Reference: Ref/126529LN
• Calibre: Rolex 4132
• Diameter: 40mm
• Material: 18k white gold
• Water-Resistance: 100-metres
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: USD$51,400

It appears 2023 may well have been the year that panda dials came back into vogue (were they ever really out?) and Rolex is a big reason why. The iconic watchmaker unveiled a new Cosmograph Daytona 24 Hours of Le Mans in June, a stunning 18k white gold timepiece that looked every bit a Paul Newman special. Throw in the stunning ceramic tachymeter scale, alongside the bright and bold ‘100’ marker at 7 o’clock and you’ve got a recipe for a modern classic.

Unveiling it at the 100th running of the Le Mans event, Rolex revealed that it is powered by the exclusive calibre 4132 movement. This new addition effectively allows the hours of the chronograph function to be counted over twenty-four hours – a reference to the iconic race – instead of the model’s usual twelve.

“This movement incorporates the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorbers, and bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève,” Rolex said. “The cut-out oscillating weight in 18 ct yellow gold is fitted with an optimized ball bearing. Like all Rolex watches, this special version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.”

Of course, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 24 Hours of Le Mans Edition was a limited release, however, so if you were lucky enough to get your hands on one, you better hold onto it.

OMEGA Speedmaster Super Racing

• Brand: OMEGA
• Model: Speedmaster Super Racing
• Diameter: 44.25mm
• Height: 14.9mm
• Case: Stainless Steel
• Movement: Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9920
• Bracelet: Stainless Steel, Leather or Canvas
• Crystal: Sapphire
• Water Resistance: 50M
• Price: AUD$17,375

Perennial favourite OMEGA was no stranger to new releases in 2023 and the task of culling it down to the top was no mean feat, however, the Speedmaster Super Racing did rise above. Touted as the maison’s ‘most accurate watch ever’, the Super Racing was the first to feature OMEGA’s trailblazing Spirate System, ensuring remarkable long-term performance.

Strangely, the Speedmaster Super Racing also paid homage to another of OMEGA’s major innovations, the Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss. For this 2023 release, the brand took its existing Speedmaster Racing template and added the yellow accents introduced on the Aqua Terra, a watch powered by the world’s first fully anti-magnetic movement.

While it may not have burst onto the scene as some other pieces did in 2023, the Speedmaster Super Racing is a watch that will be looked upon warmly in the coming years. OMEGA has already confirmed that it intends to roll out the Spirate System into future models, at which point this one may well be seen as the true innovator.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

• Brand: Tudor
• Model: Pelagos FXD
• Reference: 25717N
• Diameter: 42mm
• Height: 12.75mm
• Case: Titanium
• Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5602
• Strap: Forest Green Fabric and Dark Grey Rubber
• Water Resistance: 200M
• Price: AUD$5,970

After taking out the award for best dive watch at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Tudor Pelagos FXD continued its stellar run in 2023. The award-winning watch surged ahead with its collaboration with the French Navy, this time with its combat swimmers, Commando Hubert. Harking back to the Pelagos FXD model that first began in the mid-’50s, Tudor dropped two new timepieces, both with the same 42mm titanium case, fixed lugs and satin finish.

The case is paired with a unidirectional titanium bezel with a ceramic insert that is sand-blasted to increase functionality in the field. It’s easy to see why Tudor is marketing this watch not only as a successor to its earlier models but also as a modern-day ‘milsub’ or Military Submariner. As Lee Smith noted at the time, the new model ticks all the boxes needed to achieve the ISO 6425:2018 dive watch standard and it should prove to be as popular as its predecessors.

TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Skipper
• Reference: CBS2213.FN6002
• Diameter: 39mm
• Height: 13.9mm
• Case: Stainless Steel
• Movement: Calibre TH20-06
• Strap: Water Resistant Textile
• Water Resistance: 100M
• Price: AUD$9,800

Vintage was definitely a theme this year and TAG Heuer’s approach was one of the most innovative. For 2023, the classic brand revived the Carrera Skipper, a bright and bold yacht racing special that had for 40 years gone unloved.

First created in 1968, only 300 Skipper models were produced and the later models ceased production in 1983. Over that time, the design made quite an impact on watch fans, so it seemed only fitting to bring it back on the market. For the 2023 edition, TAG took the colouring from the deck of the America’s Cup boat Intrepid to use on the countdown sub-dial, while the dial itself features a deeper maritime blue with a sunray finish.

The specialist yacht racing dial and innovative Glassbox construction are matched with TAG’s in-house Calibre TH20-06 chronograph movement. The chronograph features are controlled by bold pushers and the movement is visible through an exhibition back. TAG boasts that this latest Skipper watch is the flagship model for a host of new maritime-inspired watches.

Tissot Sideral S Powermatic 80

• Brand: Tissot
• Model: Sideral S Powermatic 80
• Reference: T145.407.97.057.00
• Diameter: 41mm
• Movement: 11 1/2”’ Swiss automatic
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• Water resistance: 300m
• Price: AUD$1,365

From one colour number to another, Tissot’s Sideral S Powermatic 80 was an unexpected delight this year. The ultra-bold new release was a playful take on the ’70s aesthetic, complete with a 41mm forged carbon case and a seriously eye-catching dial. Admittedly, the vibrant yellow strap isn’t for everyone, but you can’t help but smile looking at this vintage-inspired timepiece. It really does feel like a relic of yesteryear, despite also housing a modern automatic movement. A bit of fun never hurt anybody.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Yacht-Master 42 Titanium
• Diameter: 42.00mm
• Movement Type: Calibre 3235
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Material: RLX Titanium
• Price: from AUD$19,850

Rolex’s first-ever titanium Yacht-Master was meant to be the release that shocked the world, but several leaks and rumours ultimately quashed the influence of the Yacht-Master 42 Titanium. That wasn’t to say the watch was not an overwhelming triumph, however. We loved the stain finish and visible grain on the middle case sides and you cant go wrong with the trusty Rolex Calibre 3235 movement.

Again, the bezel material is a special ceramic that cannot corrode, while the 42 mm Oyster case of the new Yacht-Master 42 is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The versatile Oyster bracelet, developed at the end of the 1930s, is a three-piece link that remains one of the most versatile and comfortable units in the industry.

Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer

• Brand: Mido
• Model: Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer
• Reference: M026.829.17.041.00
• Diameter: 40.5mm
• Movement: Mido Automatic ETA Calibre 80
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• Water resistance: 200m
• Price: AUD$2,100

Some watches just grab your attention and refuse to let it go; the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer is precisely that. The ultra-colourful timepiece featured an original-style decompression table and GMT function with a world time-displaying bezel, not to mention an unmissable red arrow hand tracks the time zone of wherever the wearer might travel.

Inside, MIDO deployed its Caliber 80, a next-generation automatic movement offering up to 80 hours of power reserve – twice as much as a regular calibre. Plus, the Nivachron balance-spring guarantees precision thanks to the use of a titanium-based metal alloy that reduces the effect of magnetic fields, while offering outstanding resistance to shocks. Definitely a conversation-starter.

Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Carbotech PAM01529

• Brand: Panerai 
• Model: Luminor Luna Rossa Carbotech PAM01529
• Reference Number: PAM01529
• Diameter: 44mm
• Water Resistance: 300m
• Calibre: P.9010
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$24,700

The new Luminor Luna Rossa Carbotech PAM01529 from Panerai may have slipped a little under the radar this year, but it didn’t go completely unnoticed. The e-commerce capsule exclusive was limited to only 37 pieces and celebrated the long-standing partnership between the maison and the Luna Rossa Prada Pirello racing team.

The Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Carbotech PAM01529 features a 44mm wide Carbotech case with a sunray-brushed blue dial with the atelier’s signature “sandwich” construction. Powering the Luminor Luna Rossa Carbotech PAM01529 is Panerai’s P.9010 calibre with a power reserve of a very respectable three days, thanks to its twin-barrel design. Big and bold, just how we like Panerai.

Bremont Supermarine S302

• Brand: Bremont
• Model: Supermarine S302
• Movement: Modified Calibre 11 1/2’’’ BE-932AV
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: 13mm
• Water-Resistance: 300m
• Price: from AUD$6,200

The first of many pieces to be designed by new Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato, the Supermarine S302 took the English brand back to its roots. Simple, clean and ultra-refined, the new pieces arrived adorned with fresh colourways and features. Inside the stainless steel 40mm dive watches, we found an automatic GMT movement and 50-hour power reserve, alongside a 24-hour unidirectional rotating bezel and 300m water resistance.

We did note that the standout was the S302 Jet (AUD$7,050), which boasts a black DLC case complemented by a black ceramic unidirectional bezel and sandblasted black dial, but there is a lot to be said for the more subtle editions. The new range of S302s came with a bunch of Bremont-focused highlights and design features and were priced from AUD$6,200.

Bulova Oceanographer GMT

• Brand: Bulova
• Model: Oceanographer GMT
• Reference: 98B407
• Diameter: 41mm
• Height: 14.6mm
• Case: Stainless Steel with Gun Metal IP Plating
• Movement: Miyota 9075 Automatic
• Strap: Grey Silicone Strap
• Water Resistance: 200M
• Price: AUD$1,950

On the more affordable end of the spectrum, Bulova refreshed an icon this year, taking a stab at the notorious Devil Diver. This year’s models targeted the modern traveller while still retaining the essential dive watch functionality. The famed 666ft of water resistance was still there, as wa the sapphire crystal and the screw-down crown. But the addition of a GMT function was a handy little upgrade that we loved. Additionally, the dial stayed faithful to the 1972 original with the same distinctive short, thick hands, giving us a healthy dose of nostalgia.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Aniversary Act 3

• Brand: Blancpain
• Model: Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act III
• Movement: 1154.P2
• Diameter: 41.30mm
• Thickness: 13.30mm
• Water resistance: 30 bar
• Case: 9k Bronze Gold
• Availability: Limited to 555 pieces worldwide
• Price: CHF30,000

The final piece in Blancpain’s illustrious multi-part celebration, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Aniversary Act 3 was every bit worth the wait. A MIL-SPEC dive watch that reinterprets the design language of the deep sea legend, the piece was big, bold and surprisingly, bronze gold. It was an interesting reveal for the world’s ‘first true dive watch’, but it did have its foundations rooted in history.

As I noted upon its release in September, Act III was inspired by the MIL-SPEC Fifty Fathoms of 1957, a streamlined beast that played its card close to its chest. There was no date, no bathyscaphe and no clutter, merely a timepiece designed to withstand the aquatic elements. As Blancpain CEO Mark Hayek explained, the Fifty Fathoms isn’t so much a watch that can also be used as a diving tool, but rather a diving tool that can also tell the time.

Importantly, the moisture indicator made a startling comeback for this edition, sneaking perfectly in at 6 o’clock. The dive watch also featured a unidirectional satin-brushed bezel with a black ceramic insert and vintage Super-LumiNova hour-markers, completing the classic aesthetic. A fitting tribute to one of watchmaking’s most important timepieces.

How Man of Many Chose The Best Watch Releases of 2023

To arrive at this list of products, the Man of Many team went through hours and rigorous testing, implementation and analysis before culling it down to the very best. Over the last 12 months, we’ve worked on curated products that push boundaries and pioneer new fronts, across the automotive, fashion, lifestyle and technology verticals. Sure, we love getting the latest piece of kit in our hands, but being able to point out the benefits and shortfalls objectively is at the heart of what we do.

As a result, this list is primarily comprised of products that we tested in-house and use extensively first-hand. While there are a few exceptions to the rule, generally due to scarcity and availability, we made note of the cultural significance surrounding each product should we not have been able to review it personally.

2023 Watches FAQs