Call me biased, but the Patrimony Manual-Winding may be my favourite watch of the year. Vacheron Constantin‘s stunning and vintage-inspired model embodies everything that makes the maison special. It is understated, elegant, uncluttered and above all else, astonishingly beautiful.
Described as a “celebration of watchmaking minimalism”, the new Patrimony Manual-Winding collection leans heavily into the design language of the late 1950s. From the 39mm case size (down from the traditional 40mm) to the sunburst antique silver-toned dial, the latest release brings a profound sense of ceremony to an otherwise over-complicated world. Even the use of the manual-winding movement pays homage to the golden era of dress watches. Reject modernity, as the adage suggests.
It must be said, this isn’t simply a vintage revival. Vacheron Constantin has gone to enormous lengths to capture the aesthetic of the past without neglecting the conventions of contemporary watchmaking. The signature convex dial speaks to the refined silhouette, with the slimmed hands giving a more streamlined and straightforward finish. Inside, it’s a similar story.
The latest Vacheron Constantin Patrimony models are powered by the manual-winding Calibre 1440. Developed and manufactured in-house, this movement is just 2.6 mm thick and boasts a 42-hour power reserve. Stepping things up a notch (and a few millimetres in diameter), the new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date employs the self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L, which is responsible for powering two complications.
The first is a moon-phase indication in an aperture at 6 o’clock, graduated to correspond precisely to the moon’s cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. According to Vacheron Constantin, this precision moon phase requires just one correction every 122 years. The second consists of a retrograde date display in the upper part of the dial, which fans of the brand will recognise as a signature stylistic choice.
“The Patrimony collection itself is directly inspired by the ultra-thin and particularly elegant watches of the 1950s,” Christian Selmoni, style & heritage director at Vacheron Constantin said. “Developed to equip a 1955 watch marking the company’s 200th anniversary, Calibre 1003 was in the same vein. Like all the watches in the Patrimony collection, these examples are part of the same approach that involved achieving extreme understatement rooting the watch firmly in a spirit of timeless modernity.”
The new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date will be available in 18-carat white gold while the Patrimony Manual-Winding models are offered in 18-carat white gold and 18-carat 5N pink gold, respectively. This is quintessential Vacheron Constantin and I simply can’t get enough of it.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
- Reference Number: Ref. 4010U/000G-H070
- Diameter: 42.5mm
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Calibre: Mechanical, self-winding calibre 2460 R31L
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Patrimony Manual-Winding
- Reference Number: Ref. 1410U/000G-H017 / Ref. 1410U/000R-H018
- Diameter: 39mm
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Calibre: Mechanical, manual-winding calibre 1440
