To round out Watches & Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled what could well be the watch of the show. The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is a marvel of modern watchmaking, fusing precision craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. You name it, this 44m feat of ingenuity can do it.
The key novelty for Jaeger-LeCoultre this year, the Heliotourbillon is again based on the Duometre dual-motor framework, similar to its stablemates. However, with this contemporary edition, the grand maison introduces a swathe of additional features, functions and complications – namely, a tourbillon constructed on three axes.
This remarkable development is powered by the calibre 388 and sees the entirely new tourbillon configuration spin on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. This was achieved through the use of three titanium cages, each set at a different degree, that complete rotation in 30 and 60 seconds respectively. Interestingly, Jaeger-LeCoultre also opted to support the cage structures with ceramic ball bearings, a decision that minimised friction and reduced the weight to less than 0.7 grams, despite its 163 components.
“Initially devised for pocket watches, the traditional tourbillon, which spins on a single axis, does not compensate for the effects of gravity in all positions,” Jaeger-LeCoultre said. “Having understood that an additional axis of rotation must be added in order to be more effective in all positions that a wrist-worn watch may adopt, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers developed the dual-axis Gyrotourbillon, and various other tourbillon configurations, each fitted with differently shaped hairsprings.”
Even more remarkably, calibre 388 beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, whilst also incorporating a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication and moon-phase indication accurate to 122 years. While that’s undoubtedly a massive tick for Jaeger-LeCoultre, I have to admit it was the attention to detail that caught my eye.
Seeing the piece up close, I was immediately taken by the year display’s red final numeral that indicates a leap year. As the brand representatives told me, the watchmakers created an 18-digit rolling value counter to make this phenomenon work, instead of the regular nine. For example, the 4 in 2024 will appear red as it is a leap year, while the 4 in 2034 will not. It’s a simple addition that would regularly go unnoticed, but it sums up Jaeger-LeCoultre’s meticulous approach to a tee.
Again, the newly refreshed Duometre construction helps to drive this ultra-unique piece, courtesy of the twin-barrel and gear train layout. Unlike the Duometre Chronograph Moon or Quantieme Lunaire, however, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual sees the design turned 90 degrees, with the time display flanked by two power reserves; one for each barrel measuring 50 hours in each.
On the stunning dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre has ensured that the tourbillon movement remains front and centre, with the left-hand side open-worked to provide a view of the tourbillon performing its ‘spinning top’ rotation. Furthermore, a cut-out sapphire crystal window on the side of the case offers another perspective to see the horological marvel in action.
The tourbillon itself is set above a background of deep blue lacquer that JLC says represents a starry sky. Impressively, when the tourbillon spins, red triangles set on the third cage indicate 20-second intervals marked on a sapphire crystal arc. Conversely, the main dial is crafted from a mix of opaline, brushed and azuré surfaces creating a delicate constant that doesn’t draw attention away from the stunning complication.
In essence, the new timepiece is so much more than just a complicated watch. The grand maison has managed to do something that so many other watchmakers have failed; to create an intricate work of art that personifies great ingenuity at no expense to style. It is, in a word – Incredible.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is an exclusive piece, limited to just 20 examples worldwide. The model retails for €400,000 (roughly AUD$650,000) with each presented on a brown alligator leather strap with small-scale alligator lining.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
- Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Model: Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
- Reference: Ref. 6202420
- Movement: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 388
- Diameter: 44mm
- Water-Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel
- Availability: Limited to 20 pieces
- Price: 400,000 Euros (Roughly AUD$650,000)
