Time has a funny way of keeping you in check. If the old adages are to be believed, it flies when you’re having fun, waits for no man, and is generally fleeting at the best of times, but my experience has been a little different. To me, the mark that you’ve found something, or someone, worthy of being cherished is the strange sensation that time has slowed to a near stand-still; that you could be locked in a moment forever. It is the feeling between drinks at long lunches that extend deep into the night when tall tales are not merely told but created. On a recent trip across the Tasman, I experienced precisely that, spending an afternoon exploring Ayrburn, New Zealand’s newest dining and culinary destination.
Ayrburn Background
Just a stone’s throw from the ski fields, jet boats and bungee platforms, in the rolling hills of New Zealand’s self-proclaimed ‘adventure capital’, you’ll find the very antithesis of Queenstown tradition. Here, you won’t find heart-pumping adrenaline-fuelled activities, but rather an oasis of tranquillity set against some of the world’s most remarkable natural scenery, but don’t expect to be bored.
Developer Chris Meehan and his Winton Group have managed to transform the area, which for 160 years was a working wheat, sheep and dairy farm, into a multi-venue dining and entertainment destination. The real estate icon snapped up the property from late friend, Adrian Burr, for a reported NZD$12 million (AUD$11 million) back in 2015 and while development has been slow, the project is finally finding its feet. According to the operators, six unique venues now run from dawn through to dusk seven days a week, offering a world-class wine and culinary experience.
“We wanted to create a destination where locals and visitors alike could spend the day with friends and family to simply enjoy being together over world-class food and wine,” Meehan said upon the Ayrburn opening in December. “An incredible amount of time has gone into making sure Ayrburn will be a place for great times. It embodies our commitment to celebrating the stories of the past, by giving them a new future. From our wine tastings in the Manure Room where prohibition saw tipplers evade authorities, to the shining bronze statues of Ayrburn’s founding owner, William Paterson’s prized Clydesdale and ram.”
First Impressions
From the moment I arrived at Ayrburn, it felt as though I was stepping into another world. The winding estate-like gardens that weave up towards the central hub paint a visceral picture of what is hiding just around the bend, and when we finally stopped at the Woolshed doors, I was stunned by the manicured landscapes and heritage buildings.
Winton has done a remarkable job of keeping the original structures in place, using them as a blueprint for success. Designed by local Architect S.A Studio and pulled together by Cook Brothers Construction and The Builders, Ayrburn has a decidedly old-world charm, matched flawlessly by the Alexander &CO. interiors. Each building within the estate has been meticulously restored, with each venue boasting a profoundly unique vibe.
Dining
It was a warm mid-summer day when we arrived and the gardens were in full bloom. While it certainly made for a grand entrance, in this light I could certainly see how Winton had positioned the property towards ‘Instagrammable moments’, not unlike Sydney icon The Grounds. However, there is much more to Ayrburn than just good looks. Executive chef Richard Highnam and master of wine Sophie Parker-Thompson have curated an excellent food and dining offering; the star of which has to be Woolshed.
Woolshed
A stunning venue in the immediate heart of Ayrburn, Woolshed is a must-visit new restaurant in New Zealand. The unique space fuses heritage elements left over from the original shearing shed structure with contemporary art, stone finishes and a breathtaking alfresco dining arrangement.
Being a hot day when we were there, we chose to sit outside and take in the view of the natural stream that flowed beneath us. However, I can certainly see how the fireside dining would be a winner come ski season.
I found that the menu was varied with dishes ranging from traditional market oysters, which were served with a stunning mignonette sauce to stone-baked pizzas. In a way, you could almost choose your own level of opulence, opting for refined casual or high-class depending on your selections. Dropping in for a coffee? That’s fine. Chasing a $186 Lake Ohau Wagyu T-Bone? No problems!
For me, the starters were perfectly balanced, with nods to the rich agricultural history of New Zealand’s South Island. The Prawn Flat Bread is an absolute winner and a must-try for anyone who attends, however, it must be said, Woolshed has meat at its core.
Highnam has finely curated a stellar assortment of R.M. Special Meats and the Southland Black Angus Sirloin was a cut that immediately caught my eye. Expertly cooked and bubbling with juices, the steak was promptly devoured and the plates licked clean. The meal was, in a word, perfection. From there, we were able to head out onto the grounds for a quick stroll around, taking in some of the other venues within the property.
Manure Room
Despite boasting a somewhat unsavoury name for a casual restaurant, Manure Room is an interesting addition to the Ayrburn portfolio. Serving almost a cellar door, this venue offers exclusive Ayrburn Wines, the brand’s in-house label. According to Ayrburn, the winemakers source grapes from every corner of Central Otago – Bendigo, Gibbston, Bannockburn – in order to craft a truly exceptional drop, and Manure Room is the only place you can find them.
The venue is open throughout the week, offering wine tastings and small sharing plates, making for a stellar weekend getaway for those visiting Queenstown. I found that the live music was a handy touch and the emphasis on pinot (a personal favourite) did not go unappreciated.
Burr Bar
Completing the full gamut of drinking destinations, Ayrburn steps things up with Burr Bar. Named after the philanthropist and art donor who previously owned the property, Burr Bar arrives like a home-grown whisky bar. Situated in one of the oldest buildings in the region, it seats just 12 people and is home to a stunning assortment of local and international drams. The styling is a little avant-garde and you’ll need to duck to enter through the doorframe, but this cheeky little spot might just be the best place in Queenstown for a nightcap.
New Developments
While I didn’t get to see them, the operators did confirm a number of new venues will soon be added to the Ayrburn portfolio. Later this year, the property will expand further to unveil Billy’s, a flagship restaurant that promises to deliver a “truly opulent dining experience”, while The Barrel Room, The Bakehouse and RM’s Butcher are all slated to open in 2024.
The Verdict
In a sense, Ayrburn feels a contradiction. Entirely at odds with its high-octane neighbours and yet, a perfect encapsulation of what makes the rich and lavish natural area so beautiful, the property is every bit an unexpected delight. The only downside is accessibility, both geographically and financially.
While the property is only a short drive outside the historic Arrowtown, Ayrburn does feel off the beaten track. It’s not exactly somewhere that you could drop in on the way to another venue and the heavy focus on wine suggests a designated driver is almost certainly a necessity. Thankfully, the property does have a shuttle bus running to and from Queenstown, which is a huge plus for those looking to indulge in a glass of vino (or four). It’s the kind of place where you’d like to spend the entire day, but there is an undeniable downtime between meals that goes somewhat unserviced.
The operators assure me that this will change as the property nears full completion, granting visitors the opportunity to head off for activities, walks and to view entertainment in The Dell. For now, if you plan to visit for lunch and dinner (say at the Manure Room and then Woolshed), you may need to entertain yourself in the interim. And be prepared, it won’t come cheap.
With premier names like Richard Highnam on the bill, you can expect the menu prices to skew a little high and that’s true of Ayrburn. While far from indulgent (starters sit at around NZD$25 and mains around NZD$40), Woolshed is a spot best reserved for a special occasion, and I certainly wouldn’t be disappointed to spend an anniversary or birthday here.
Whatever your flavour, from high-end dining to weekend entertainment, afternoon wine tasting to late-night whisky tipples, there is an activity, and strangely, an Ayrburn venue waiting to make it happen.
Disclaimer: The author of this article, Nick Hall, was invited to attend Ayrburn as a guest of the brand for the purposes of this review.
