Stopping by Baume & Mercier’s booth at Watches and Wonders 2024, I’m reminded of the enviable position the brand holds within the fine watch landscape. It’s a historic and highly esteemed house producing outstanding timepieces, which it delivers at a (comparatively) accessible price point without all of the absurd hype that often gets in the way. To me, that makes the Baume & Mercier a highly attractive proposition and the new range of watches launched in Geneva has done nothing to dampen my enthusiasm. Quite the opposite.
With a selection of new Rivieras, Classimas, and—my top pick—Cliftons with the Baumatic Moon phase, Baume & Mercier has produced some of the finest watches you’ll find at Watches & Wonders 2024.
Riviera
Expanding one of its most famous lines, Baume & Mercier has unveiled a range of new Rivieras at Watches and Wonders 2024. The variety on offer is impressive—from a skeleton movement to a perpetual calendar—but each timepiece maintains the line’s signature element: a fixation on using the French Riviera as the source of its inspiration.
More: Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 – Part 4
Riviera 10721
- Reference: M0A10721
- Movement: Sellita AMT2500
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Power Reserve: 38 hours
- Material: Steel / Rubber
- Price: AUD$6,900
Aspiring to echo streamlined elements of the Riviera’s modern architecture, Baume and Mercia claims this watch is “inspired by the minimalist lines and bold shapes of the villas that cling to this rock sculpted by the Mediterranean elements.” There is certainly a sense of strength to the watch’s handsome design, while the skeleton movement simultaneously retains a contradictory air of delicacy.
Through this movement, the watch’s gear trains and cogwheels can be easily observed, inviting the eye to casually move through the watch, much in the way one might wander through the streets of the Riviera. The mechanism that enables this is encased in the Riviera staple dodecagonal case constructed from satin-polished stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter and 11.1 mm thick.
The watch’s openworked black dial is decorated with vertical brush strokes and topped with faceted, openworked oxidised hands that are coated with white Superluminova for enhanced visibility. The self-winding movement—an exclusive semi-skeleton calibre designed exclusively for Baume & Mercier—keeps things in motion with a 38-hour power reserve.
Riviera 10769
- Reference: M0A10769
- Movement: BM13-1975 A
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Power Reserve: 120 hours
- Material: Steel-Titanium / Rubber
- Price: AUD$6,950
Designed to provide rich reflection of the water of the Riviera—perhaps at night, given its hue—the Acier-Titane model’s deep blue dial will draw you in, tempting you to inspect the mysterious pattern hinted at just below its blue surface.
The dial’s rich shade is repeated throughout the watch, with the case constructed from sandblasted steel with a blue PVD treatment, and the same shade present on its rubber strap. Even the black of the watch’s titanium bezel appears to be simpatico with the watch’s blue components.
Again, featuring a 42 mm dodecagonal case, this watch’s use of steel ensures it is lightweight and durable, with a particular resistance to corrosion for the water-bound. The bezel is secured via four steel screws in sandblasted ADLC-coated steel, while a gold-tone PVD steel ring links the bezel with the caseband.
Upon the dial sit Roman numerals and riveted gold-tone indexes coated with white Superluminova that delivers blue luminescence. All of this runs thanks to the self-winding Baumatic manufacture movement, with a five-day power reserve and protection against daily magnetic fields.
Riviera 10787
- Reference: M0A10787
- Movement: BM13-1975 A
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 120 hours
- Material: 18K Pink Gold / Leather
- Price: AUD$32,500
The Riviera is a region of “beauty and opulence” according to Baume & Mercier (who are we to argue?), and so the brand’s Riviera Gold timepiece aims to pay tribute to this. One look at that satin-polished rose gold (750/1000) dodecagonal case and you’ll agree it wasn’t all in vain. More compact than the previous entries on this list—39 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm thick—and with the same rose gold present on the bezel and octagonal crown, it’s opulent and elegant at the same time.
Within this rose gold palace, you can’t help but notice the smoked grey dial with transparent wave decoration. Atop this sits Roman numerals, riveted gold-tone indexes, and gold-tone hour and minute hands, all of which will glow with an atmospheric blue once you charge up their Superluminova coating. Finishing off the dial, a wide aperture displays the date at 3 o’clock, while a black alligator strap with all-square scales completes the watch as a whole.
Riviera 10786
- Reference: M0A10786
- Movement: BM13-1975 AC2
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 120 hours
- Material: Steel
- Limited Edition: 50 pieces
- Price: AUD$33,500
An homage to the moon’s illumination of the Riviera landscape, this watch stands apart from the previous new additions to the Riviera family in that it features a perpetual calendar function. And you could argue this feels like the final boss Riviera, as it sees Baume & Mercier going all out.
This limited edition consisting of just 50 pieces sees the manufacture complication returning to the Riviera line for the second time—the first was last year’s 50th anniversary model—and placed within that signature dodecagonal case. Here it’s constructed out of a polished satin-finished stainless steel, and paired with the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides that runs through the line.
While there’s plenty going on within the dial, it feels cohesive and easy to navigate. The grey vertical brushed finish is elegant and this elegance is continued on the riveted and rhodium-plated indexes and the openworked and rhodium-plated hour and minute hands. Further details include the Phi logo as a counterweight on the seconds hand’s extremity, counter hands crafted in black polished and oxidised bicolor steel, and the moon phase disk polished and rhodium-plated with a black lacquer finish.
Inside, the self-winding Baumatic manufacture movement boasts a Dubois-Dépraz module, a five-day power reserve, and protection against everyday magnetic fields. The mechanism features circular-grained bridges, a sand-blasted and snailed baseplate, an openworked oscillating weight decorated with snailed and “Côtes de Genève” designs, and a unique Baume & Mercier engraving. The final touch is the watches integrated strap with its three rows of polished satin-finished stainless steel links, the central one of which features decorative beveling. For those looking for something a little sportier, the watch also comes with an alligator-topped grey rubber strap that can be easily swapped out as required.
More: Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 – Part 3
Classima
Baume & Mercier’s Classima returns with three elegant new chronographs. Despite the same foundational design, the watches evoke significantly varied emotions, with two offering an understated aesthetic thanks to their neutral, earthy tones, while the third is a real head-turner thanks to its exquisite, dazzling blue dial.
Classima 10782
- Reference: M0A10782
- Movement: Valjoux 7750
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Material: Steel / Calfskin
- Price: AUD$4,850
This highly understated timepiece (for a chronograph) is a thing of subtle beauty. While 42 mm is about my limit in terms of a watch’s diameter, this did not feel like it was pushing it once strapped to my wrist. The sand-coloured dial, with snailed counters for the chronograph and small seconds stands out as a unique (and welcome) proposition among all the watches in Geneva this year. Would I wear it as my daily watch? Probably not, but it would add real depth to anyone’s timekeeping arsenal.
With a round case constructed from polished stainless steel and scratch-resistant sapphire crystals front and back, this is a refined piece of watchmaking. And while it might not sound like much, that light suede number is one of the best straps I’ve seen for the entirety of Watches and Wonders 2024.
Classima 10783
- Reference: M0A10783
- Movement: Valjoux 7750
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Material: Steel / Calfskin
- Price: AUD$4,850
From the sandy tones of the M0A10782 to something that would look more at home on a woodland trail, the M0A10783 maintains much of the subtlety of its sibling, but with a little more pop from its dial. That sun-satin green may not look like anything particularly remarkable when you first pick it up but as the light moves across it, it reveals a depth of colour that’s impressive.
The rest of the watch is much the same as its beguiling sandy counterpart, but with a brownish-grey nubuck calfskin strap that completes the package handsomely.
Classima 10784
- Reference: M0A10784
- Movement: Valjoux 7750
- Diameter: 42 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Material: Steel / Calfskin
- Price: AUD$4,850
My favourite of Baume & Mercier’s Classima efforts this year, this piece has a dark blue dial that I found absolutely undeniable. The watchmaker describes this piece’s sun satin-finished lacquered blue focal point as having a “glow” but that feels like an understatement. The dark blue explodes to life under the correct light, as if it has suddenly been charged with electricity. It’s quite mesmerising.
The rest of the watch’s details remain in line with those described above, with the exception of its blue alligator strap complete with all-square scales and tone-on-tone overstitching, which perfectly complements the striking shade of the dial itself.
More: Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 – Part 2
Clifton
Baume & Mercier unveiled two new Clifton references this year, and one of them happens to be my favourite piece of all the brand’s new releases. With their moon phase complications, compact design, and the colour gradation of their dials, these two watches (particularly the latter) are, for me, the heroes of the maison’s collection for Watches and Wonders 2024.
Clifton 10756
- Reference: M0A10756
- Movement: BM14-1975 AC1
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 120 hours
- Material: Steel / Alligator
- Price: AUD$7,250
The Clifton M0A10756 packs a lot of information into its small frame. Actually, at 39 mm it’s not really that small, but it feels more compact on the wrist than that number would suggest. Perhaps that’s part of the appeal.
On the dial, you’ll find elongated trapezoid indexes that are riveted, faceted, and rhodium-plated, along with alpha-shaped hour and minute hands that are faceted and rhodium-plated, and rhodium-plated seconds and date hands. The date also appears on a handsomely riveted, rhodium-plated ring at the bottom of the dial, encircling the polished moon-phase disk that glows in coloured lacquer.
The watch’s case, which is 12.2 mm thick—again, it feels smaller—is crafted from satin-polished stainless steel, and is completed with a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on both sides. Paired with a blue alligator with all-square scales, this is a compact and highly impressive piece of watchmaking, particularly for those (like me) with wrists on the smaller side.
Clifton 10758
- Reference: M0A10758
- Movement: BM14-1975 AC1
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 50 m
- Power Reserve: 120 hours
- Material: Steel / Alligator
- Price: AUD$7,250
Last but definitely not least, this is my favourite watch from Baume & Mercier’s offering at Watches and Wonders 2024. This watch shares most of the same specs as the one above, but really sets itself apart thanks to its lacquered dial with stunning grey gradation and the gold-tone accents that really sing, particularly the gold-plated moon-phase disk.
The satin-polished stainless steel case is a perfect choice as it doesn’t draw undue attention to itself—a gold-plated case would have been too much—enabling the dial to have maximum impact. Similarly, the black alligator strap is a perfectly understated choice, leaving the dial to be the star of the show. And what a star it is. Within a very strong collection, Baume & Mercier has produced a real winner with the Clifton 10758.
