The Wind Up – Watch News #316

Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. With only a few weeks left before the April 1 deadline, the watchmaking world is firing on all cylinders, dropping release after release of stunning horological fare in the lead-up to the industry’s biggest show. Watches & Wonders 2025 is just over a month away and the world’s most significant watchmakers (sans Swatch group) aren’t letting any time go to waste.

This week, new novelties and core releases were unveiled by Audemars Piguet and Bianchet, while OMEGA and Swatch teamed up for a heritage-inspired collaboration that might just be the best Moonswatch yet. But as we all know in the topsy-turvy whimsical world of watches, you really can never know what’s around the next corner. Happy reading!

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked

• Brand: Audemars Piguet 
• Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked
• Reference Number: 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01
• Diameter: 41mm
• Thickness: 9.90mm
• Movement: Calibre 5135
• Power Reserve: 40 hours
• Water Resistance: 20m
• Price: CHF175,000 (Limited to 150 pieces)

It’s been a long time coming, but this week Audemars Piguet finally put the finishing nail in the coffin of the much-loved calibre 5134 (and 5135), releasing a stunning ode to the classic timepiece. The limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is a stunning nod to the heritage design language, unique finishing and uncompromising horological endeavour that for decades defined the Royal Oak collection.

As the name suggests, the latest timepiece comes complete with an openworked dial—much to my and I am sure many others’ delight. It features an assortment of new and traditional touches, from the moon phase complication and 6 o’clock to the classic integrated bracelet functionality, but I have to say—the old-school Audemars Piguet emblem is the proverbial cherry on top of a very, very enticing cake. 

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked’s skeletonisation is, of course, second to none. As with all openworked Audemars Piguet references, the finishing is really a sight to see, and the moonphase at the 6 o’clock register is beautiful. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is complete with blue dial highlights, which works really well with the overall look of the titanium case and bracelet.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Self-Winding

• Brand: Audemars Piguet 
• Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Self-Winding
• Reference Number: Ref.26674ST.OO.1320ST.01 / Ref.26674SG.OO.1320SG.01
• Diameter: 41mm
• Thickness: 9.50mm
• Material: Stainless steel/Sand gold
• Movement: Calibre 7138
• Power Reserve: 55 hours
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Price: CHF109,300 (Stainless steel)/CHF130,000 (Sand gold)

While the Openworked may have stolen much of the attention this week, Audemars Piguet also slipped a few interesting additions into the collection. The Calibre 7138, while not a new timepiece, is perhaps the most exciting, representing the maison’s new in-house automatic perpetual calendar movement. AP has opted to integrate it into two brand new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models, one in stainless steel and the other in sand gold. The triumph here is the new calibre, but let’s not let the moment pass and admire these new cases, especially that sand gold one — wow.

The Calibre 7138 is a marvel that has been a long time coming for Audemars Piguet. It incorporates some of the technology for the acclaimed RD#2, is made up of 422 components, and it includes the hours, minutes, week indicator, day, date, astronomical moon, month and leap year. But perhaps most impressively, gone are the days when pushers were needed to adjust the perpetual calendar. Audemars Piguet has flexed its horological might and enabled the user to set the watch fully via the crown only.

Bianchet B1.618 UltraFino

• Brand: Bianchet
• Model: B1.618 UltraFino
• Reference Number: Ref. B1.618
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: 8.90mm
• Movement: UT01
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Price: CHF55,000 (Closed dial); CHF60,500 (Skeleton dial)

Bianchet introduced its first ultra-thin model this week, alongside its first integrated bracelet model and its first automatic model. The new B1.618 UltraFino is available with either an open or closed-off dial; carrying the maison’s distinct tonneau-shaped case. This time around, the unique case has been crafted entirely from titanium, helping to give the piece a more robust and lightweight feel on the wrist.

The like-for-like look of the B1.618 UltraFino will undoubtedly draw comparisons to other notable references from the likes of Richard Mille, Franck Muller and Hublot, which may leave some wondering why they would part with such a significant chunk of change for what is tantamount to a lookalike. To me, however, the design does hold merit. Where others fall short in the movement category, Bianchet triumphs, utilising its own manufacture flying-tourbillon calibre finished to the absolute nth-degree.

OMEGA x Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965

• Brand: OMEGA x Swatch
• Model: MOONSWATCH 1965
• Reference: Ref.SO33M106
• Diameter: 42mm
• Thickness: 13.25mm
• Movement: Quartz Chronograph
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: AUD$435

OMEGA celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster passing NASA’s rigorous flight tests with its latest collaborative effort with Swatch, the Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965. Key little easter eggs can be found throughout the new Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965. Namely the original OMEGA logo, typeface and hands, along with an applied logo.

Another cool feature of the Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965 occurs when there is no light. Pull out a UV torch, shine it on the dial, and you’ll see a 19 in place of the 60 on the left chronograph sub-register and a 65 in place of the 10 on the right sub-register. The result — 1965 — the year of the NASA trials. The Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965 is another fun piece from OMEGA and Swatch, and leaves us all wondering ‘What’s next?’