The Wind Up – Watch News #330

Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, and what a week it has been! Alongside the expected (but still very welcome) chronograph and GMT inclusions, we’ve encountered a real-world incarnation of a video-game prop worn by none other than Norman Reedus’ digital alter ego, as well as an always exciting new effort from our friends at Ressence.

The further addition of a Sparkling Rainbow timepiece from Ulysse Nardin means this has been a far-from-standard week in the wonderful world of horology. With that, happy reading and have a great week ahead.

Hamilton American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition

• Brand: Hamilton
• Model: American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition
• Reference: Ref. H13605130
• Diameter: 36mm
• Thickness: 13.7mm
• Material: PVD titanium
• Movement: Three-hand automatic movement
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Water-Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: AUD$2,550

It is no secret that the worlds of cinema and horology are invariably linked (just look at what James Bond did for the OMEGA Seamaster), but heritage stalwart Hamilton is staking its claim on a new frontier. The iconic watchmaker, revered for its stellar assortment of field watches and dress ensembles, has unveiled a new collaborative project with renowned video game designer Hideo Kojima, the mastermind behind cult classic Death Stranding.

As part of the joint venture, a futuristic Boulton-inspired Hamilton timepiece is set to appear in Kojima’s long-awaited sequel, Death Stranding 2: On the Beach, in addition to being released as a limited-edition reference. This week, Hamilton finally gave us a first look at the video game-themed American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition, and it must be said, it is a bona fide stunner.

For video game fans, Death Stranding 2 could well be the most anticipated game of the year. Featuring world-class voice talent such as The Walking Dead‘s Norman Reedus and James Bond‘s Léa Seydoux, Kojima’s latest effort is said to push the narrative and experiential boundaries of gaming. The accompanying timepiece follows a similar theme, arriving in a futuristic titanium case finished with a black PVD treatment. What’s more, for Kojima, the partnership with Hamilton represented more than just a sharing of ideas.

“More than half a century ago, in the late 1960s, one of my favourite film directors, Stanley Kubrick, commissioned Hamilton to create the watch that appears in his film 2001: A Space Odyssey. I feel very honoured to have been able to create the watch that appears in my latest work, Death Stranding 2: On the Beach, together with Hamilton,” Kojima said.

“Both 2001: A Space Odyssey and Death Stranding 2: On the Beach are set in a slightly futuristic world beyond the actual time period in which they were created. Hamilton, which has provided watches for many films, was a perfect choice as a partner to design and create a product set in the near future, which is an extension of the present. Please take this watch in your hands and experience the product that connects the world of the game and the real world.”

According to Hamilton, design cues from the Boulton are seen in the sleek, arching lines of the titanium case, a material that reduced the watch’s weight by 45 per cent while also improving its anti-corrosive properties. Remarkably, the watch utilises seven sapphire crystals: one primary viewing window with two columns of three on each side, matching the lines of the case.

This unique, never-before-seen case shape creates a dynamic interplay of light and shadow, which is matched by the minimalist grey indicators on the face and contrasting orange lacquered seconds hand and 12 o’clock index. Inside, you’ll find a three-hand automatic 25-jewel movement with an 80-hour power reserve and a Nivachron balance spring.

Limited to just 2,000 pieces worldwide, each with individual case back numbering, the Hamilton American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition is the ultimate collector’s piece. Complete with packaging inspired by narrative elements from the game as well as a bespoke cleaning cloth unique to the collaboration, the timepiece does an incredible job of bringing the Death Stranding world from the screen to the wrist.

Ressence Type 9 S75

• Brand: Ressence
• Model: Type 9 S75
• Diameter: 39mm
• Thickness: 11mm
• Material: Titanium
• Movement: Calibre ROCS 9
• Power Reserve: 36 hours
• Water Resistance: Splash resistant
• Price: CHF15,500 (Limited to 20 pieces)

To celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary and its long-standing partnership with the esteemed retailer, Ressence has unveiled the Type 9 S75. In true Ressence form, this unique timepiece has a lot more to it than meets the eye. The masterful creators of the world’s most remarkable and innovative watches have again revisited the dial design, capturing the very essence of Ahmed Seddiqi’s home in the U.A.E—in more ways than one.

Limited to just 20 pieces, the TYPE 9 S75’s dial is filled with real sand sourced in equal proportions from the dunes of all seven Emirates of the U.A.E. The result, according to Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens, is an inimitable, fully functional mechanical watch that brings the texture of the desert into motion, without compromising the purity and clarity of the dial.

“Central to this project is the idea of measuring time through the motion of sand grains,” Mintiens explained. “This watch stands at the crossroads between the ancient hourglass, the organic dome of the dial echoing the texture of dunes, and the regional origin of the piece, symbolised by a blend of sand gathered from all seven Emirates. All expressed through a contemporary watch design for the 21st century. That’s a lot for a 39mm watch.”

From a technical perspective, the TYPE 9 S75 is a marvel of modern engineering. Once the grains of sand are sourced, they are then bonded to the rotating titanium discs, creating a one-of-a-kind textured finish. That, coupled with Ressence’s incredible patented ROCS 9 displaying hours and minutes layout, makes for a serious piece of horological excellence.

Mido Ocean Star GMT

• Brand: Mido
• Model: Ocean Star GMT
• Reference: Ref. M026.629.37.291.00
• Diameter: 44mm
• Water Resistance: 200 metres
• Movement: Calibre 80
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$2,375

As a proud owner of a Mido Ocean Star 200, I can attest to the brand’s build quality and general sensibilities. A no-nonsense, to-the-point daily driver, the Ocean Star collection is an ode to mindful utilitarianism, affordability, and real-world applicability. The latest iteration of the Ocean Star GMT offers all that and more. 

From the yellow gold-coloured PVD-coated case to the added GMT function, the Mido Ocean Star GMT looks and feels far more expensive than its AUD$2,375 price tag lets on. The dial layout is clean and legible, with the GMT function clearly displaying the time in two different time zones without cluttering the aesthetic.

Interestingly, Mido has also engraved time-zone indications on the back of the sporty Swiss watch, providing extra clarity and a little easter egg for those lucky enough a snag the timepiece. Insde, the Ocea Star GMT is powered by the calibre 80 automatic movement, which offers a power reserve of up to 80 hours and supreme accuracy for the price. As always, the rubber band fares well on the wrist, and it offers a certain nostalgic charm thanks to its warm colourway. Love it.

Ulysse Nardin Blast

• Brand: Ulysse Nardin
• Model: Blast
• Reference: Ref. 1720-400B1LE-9A-RAIN/3A
• Diameter: 45mm
• Thickness: 13.35mm
• Material: White gold
• Water Resistance: 50 metres
• Movement: Calibre UN-172 Manufacture Skeleton Movement
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$781,400

Fresh off releasing the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, Ulysse Nardin has again stepped into the world of high engineering. This time around, the result borders on the absurd. The brand’s latest effort, the Blast , is an exceptional eight-piece limited-edition watch that is set with a bevy of rainbow-coloured sapphires. Audacious, intricate and overly luxurious, this timepiece is a perfect example of the company’s watchmaking savoir-faire.

According to Ulysee Nardin, the new 45mm white gold Blast is decorated with 211 coloured sapphires invisibly set into the case, bezel, crown, dial and clasp, totalling 13.33 carats. Together, these stones transform the Blast from a piece of horological excellence to a high-jewellery masterpiece. Inside, the craftsmanship is just as exquisite.

The timepiece is powered by Ulysse Nardin’s independent integrated UN-172 manufacture skeleton movement. This self-winding power source features a flying tourbillon with a platinum micro-rotor (visible at 12 o’clock), a silicon escapement and hairspring, and a 72-hour power reserve. The Ulysse Nardin Blast is, in a word, incredible, and it has a price tag to match. The new timepiece will set you back a cool AUD$781,400, provided you are one of the lucky eight people to snag one.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

• Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre 
• Model: Polaris Chronograph
• Reference: Ref. Q9028651
• Diameter: 42mm
• Thickness: 13.39mm 
• Material: Stainless steel
• Movement: Calibre 761
• Power Reserve: 65 hours
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Price: AUD$24,400

When Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a new timepiece, the watch world takes note, and the latest variation of the Polaris Chronograph is no exception. Reference Q9028651 sports the same unique and funky Ocean Grey aesthetic that we saw on last year’s Polaris Date and Polaris Geographic, a look that arrives courtesy of a complex lacquering process that involves 35 layers and meticulous polishing. However, despite the timepiece’s visual similarities, there are some undeniable differences with this year’s release.

The 42mm chronograph is powered by the in-house Calibre 761, which Jaeger-LeCoultre promises will deliver 65 hours of power reserve. The integrated chronograph movement is best characterised by its column wheel with vertical clutch design, which provides enhanced stability and accuracy.

On the dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre has adorned the Polaris Chronograph with a central chronograph seconds hand to enable more precise reading. This is then balanced by the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, the sub-dial at 9 o’clock serves as a running indicator with a small seconds display. Offered with a pair of interchangeable straps in black rubber and blue-grey fabric, the Polaris Chronograph is an awesome bit of kit that combines all of our favourite things from JLC: quality, workmanship and an eye for details.

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe

• Brand: Greubel Forsey 
• Model: GMT Balancier Convexe
• Diameter: 44.90mm
• Thickness: 17.60mm 
• Material: Titanium
• Water Resistance: 50 metres
• Movement: GMT Balancier Convexe
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: Price on request

At the very end of the wide-ranging spectrum of horology sits the newest piece from Greubel Forsey. The GMT Balancier Convexe is an exploration of horological endeavour, taking watch development to its extremities and delivering supreme accuracy, design and innovation in the process. If you ask me, this is less of a new release and more of a dimension revamp, with Greubel Forsey opting to shave off a few millimetres from its existing GMT Balancier Convexe model.

Improved wearability from the case size reduction comes alongside a new escape wheel that boasts more decoration with thinner spokes and contrasting grained finishing. Another addition is a power reserve indicator, but all eyes are on that immense spinning globe, which thankfully hasn’t been changed. Insane stuff.