The Wind Up: Baume et Mercier’s New Clifton is Ice-Cold

Welcome back to another round of The Wind Up! This is the weekly wrap exploring the horological encounters, events, and developments that have caught Man of Many’s attention over the past seven days. I’m Rob, a man who spends entirely too much time, effort, and money on watches, and it’s my pleasure to be joining you again.

This week, our proceedings commence with Baume et Mercier’s new Clifton on the wrist. It’s a simple hours, minutes, seconds, and date affair elevated by a beautiful dial that sings when it catches the light. Following that, we have Seiko’s new Asia-Pacific-exclusive Prospex limited editions, the new Panerai Luminor, and a beautiful Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet.

As ever, there’s no time like the present and not a second to waste, so let’s jump feet first into another instalment of Man of Many’s The Wind Up.

On the Wrist: Baume et Mercier’s Ice-Blue Clifton Baumatic

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I’ve long been a fan of Baume et Mercier. It’s a brand that frequently produces beautiful watches. And it does so without the fanfare of so many other makers. While not every release is a banger, there’s always plenty to enjoy, which keeps me coming back for more.

This week, I was fortunate to spend some time with the new Clifton. It’s one of two new limited-edition releases packing a beautiful ice-blue dial with a gorgeous guilloché pattern. The other is a limited-to-20 perpetual calendar priced at AUD$32,500, which looks fantastic, while this reference (M0A10870) is a more understated affair. As the owner of another Clifton model, the 10758, I’m familiar with the line. However, this release is about as aesthetically removed from my watch as two sibling timepieces can be. And it’s so new that (at the time of writing) it’s not even on the Baume et Mercier website yet.

This one all comes down to the dial. Baume et Mercier’s pairing of hue and pattern is superb. It changes colour as it catches the light, moving from silvery grey to flashes of mauve and even turquoise. Its complexity and beauty far exceed what the stock photos suggest. The swirl of that patterned finish means your viewing angle dictates your experience. This, paired with the hidden palette of colours, makes it a fascinating thing to revisit throughout the day under various lighting conditions.

Elsewhere, Baume et Mercier has kept the details straightforward. In other contexts, one might even describe them as “dull”. Here, the approach simply means the dial holds the spotlight unchallenged. The 39-mm case is a perfect size for my 6.5-inch wrist. Meanwhile, the integrated stainless-steel bracelet is serviceable, though it feels somewhat lightweight. It is interchangeable, though. I’d love to see this watch with something more like the navy alligator strap that accompanies the aforementioned perpetual calendar.

Turning it over, we find a little more flair. The self-winding Baumatic (BM13-1975 A) movement visible through the display caseback boasts bridges with circular-grained finishing. It also features a sandblasted plate with snailed detailing. Further, the open-worked oscillating weight is adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and more of the snailed motif. Plus, the surrounding caseback features Clifton and Baume et Mercier engravings at the top and bottom, along with a “LIMITED EDITION” engraving on the right.

Returning to that beautiful ice-blue dial, I have two quibbles. These might be limited to the individual watch I had in my possession, but it wouldn’t feel right to leave them unaddressed. The first is that the numerals 1 and 2 that make up 12 appear ever so slightly misaligned. The bottom of the 1 dips just below the base of the 2, which appears tilted to the right. This may be a stylistic choice trying to align the 12 with the dial’s curve, but the stock photos suggest otherwise.

The other is that the numerals in the date window appear to land ever so slightly to the right. This isn’t really a problem for 30 days out of a 31-day month. However, on the first of each month, it becomes clear as the 1 numeral doesn’t align with the stripe running down the centre of the dial. Again, perhaps these are limited to this singular watch.

These issues aside, this is a release that’s all about that blue dial and its guilloché pattern, which reveals those shades of grey, turquoise, mauve, and others that escape me in this moment. It’s a watch that doesn’t demand the attention of passers by, which I appreciate. Instead, it rewards the wearer who takes the time to sit with it. Paired with a navy leather strap, I’d be delighted to add this watch to my collection.

Baume et Mercier Clifton Baumatic Key Specs:

• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 39 mm
• Thickness: 11.22 mm
• Water resistance: 50 metres
• Dial: Ice-blue with guilloché pattern
• Bracelet: Stainless-steel bracelet
• Movement: Manufacture self-winding Baumatic (BM13-1975 A)
• Power Reserve: 120 hours
• Price: From AUD$5,400

Seiko Brings Sunset to Your Wrist

Another week, another Seiko or two to discuss. No, I’m not talking about the six new 145-anniversary releases that you’d be forgiven for assuming were inspired by Prince (I like the colour of the 5 Sports HDB003K in particular). Instead, we have two new Asia-Pacific exclusive Prospex models. According to Seiko, these are inspired by the sky as it transitions from the gold of an afternoon sunset to dusk. Really, it’s just an excuse to introduce cool yellow and orange dials to the Prospex line. I’m all for it.

Both watches are limited to 2,500 individually numbered pieces. The HBB003K features a bold yellow finish that celebrates the golden hour, while the HBB004K opts for a similarly striking shade of saturated orange. Aside from their hue, their signature is a sand-textured dial that recalls the Asia-Pacific’s sun-kissed coastlines.

Being Prospex releases, these watches take their diving credentials seriously. As such, they boast a screw-down crown and a solid caseback, delivering 200 metres of water resistance. To this end, the dial is protected by Seiko’s Hardlex glass. It’s not sapphire, but it’s hardy nonetheless. Measuring 41.7mm in diameter, 12.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug distance of 49.5mm, these watches aren’t small but should be manageable for most wrists.

Each watch comes with a stainless-steel bracelet featuring brushed and polished finishes and a push-button clasp. It also features an extender, should you want to throw it on over a wetsuit. Both pieces are available for pre-order now and should arrive sometime between September and October.

Seiko Prospex HBB003K Key Specs:

• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 41.7 mm
• Thickness: 12.3 mm
• Water resistance: 200 metres
• Dial: Yellow
• Bracelet: Stainless-steel bracelet
• Movement: Calibre 4R35
• Power Reserve: 41 hours
• Price: AUD$995

Seiko Prospex HBB004K Key Specs:

• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 41.7 mm
• Thickness: 12.3 mm
• Water resistance: 200 metres
• Dial: Orange
• Bracelet: Stainless-steel bracelet
• Movement: Calibre 4R35
• Power Reserve: 41 hours
• Price: AUD$995

Panerai’s New Luminor Marina Blends Vintage and High-Tech

This week, Panerai announced a release that is, well, extremely Panerai. It’s large. It’s made with an exotic material. And it looks like a watch you’d find behind the glass of a vintage store.

For its new 44-mm Luminor Marina, Panerai has paired a ’60s-inspired visual language with an example of its material innovation: Carbotech. Known for its lightness, durability, and distinctive appearance, Panerai undergoes a laborious process to create it. The maison takes sheets of carbon fibre and compresses them at a precise temperature and pressure. It pairs this with PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone), a polymer that reinforces the composite, enhancing its strength and longevity.

The result boasts a notable strength-to-weight ratio. It’s 64 per cent lighter than titanium and 80 per cent lighter than steel. Panerai claims Carbotech also offers superior corrosion resistance, making it suitable for underwater conditions. Further, the material boasts an uneven, matte-black surface that varies depending on how it’s cut. As a result, every watch has a slightly different appearance.

Looks aside, each case houses the 200-piece P.9010 automatic calibre, featuring a small-seconds complication and a three-day power reserve. Finally, the watch is completed with a brown calf-leather strap. However, I’d be more inclined to adopt the rubber strap option (above). That is, if I thought my wrist could handle a watch this large. Spoiler: it can’t.

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 Key Specs:

• Case: Carbotech
• Diameter: 44 mm
• Water resistance: 300 metres
• Dial: Matte black
• Strap: Vintage brown calf-leather strap / black rubber
• Movement: Calibre P.9010
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$24,500

Out of the Bleu: Audemars Piguet’s New Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Audemars Piguet’s latest is the stuff dreams are made of. Just look at that colour. Oh, and it also has a flying tourbillon.

This is the maison’s second swing at crafting a Royal Oak in full “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic. For my money, it’s a home run. I love the monochromatic look of the 41-mm case, bracelet, and the meticulous Grande Tapisserie dial. This is only interrupted by the bezel screws, 18-karat white-gold hands and hour-markers, Audemars Piguet branding, and, of course, that tourbillon. The jewels of the latter also add a tiny dash of contrasting colour that elevates the overall effect.

The whole affair is about as far removed from the maison’s recent Swatch Royal Pop collaboration as you can get. It’s also priced accordingly. While AP has listed it as “price on request”, the price is rumoured to be CHF 210,000 (approximately AUD$367,700). That sounds about right to me.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon:

• Case: “Bleu Nuit” ceramic
• Diameter: 41 mm
• Water resistance: 50 metres
• Dial: Blue Grande Tapisserie
• Bracelet: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic integrated
• Movement: Calibre 2950
• Power Reserve: 65 hours
• Price: Price on request