The Wind Up: Tudor’s Northflag Marks Its Territory

Welcome, watch lovers! We’re back with another instalment of The Wind Up. For those unfamiliar, this is Man of Many’s weekly wrap detailing the horological encounters, events, and releases that have caught my eye over the past seven days. I’m Rob, the Man of Many team member most likely to get distracted by watch continuity while watching a film or TV show, and I’m very happy to be joining you once again.

This week, I’ve been parading around Sydney wearing one of the most interesting Tudor releases in quite some time: the Northflag. It’s a utilitarian yet handsome reintroduction of a line that was comparatively short-lived. I also think this latest incarnation is an upgrade, so I’m glad it’s back.

The past seven days have also kept me busy with a celebration marking Seiko’s 145th anniversary. A. Lange & Söhne has released a new stunner. And G-Shock unveiled its coolest product in years. Plus, there have been a host of other watch releases and news. As always, there’s no time like the present and not a second to waste, so let’s get stuck in with the latest edition of Man of Many’s The Wind Up.

On the Wrist: Tudor Northflag

Tudor’s Northflag is a release that caught me a little off guard when it was announced. It’s a resurrection of a line introduced in 2015, but it didn’t last long as it was discontinued in 2021. This short lifespan meant I was only vaguely familiar with that original run, but having since looked into it for comparison’s sake, I think it’s safe to say this new incarnation, sporting a GMT function and retailing for AUD$7,780, is a welcome and improved return.

The North Flag (originally two words and now one, confusingly enough) was Tudor’s first in-house mechanical watch. The Northflag shares much of the same design language, including an integrated bracelet, a black dial (now with the subtlest touch of sunburst), and large Arabic numerals at 12 and 6.

The new release also maintains the bright yellow, almost fluorescent, colouring across its seconds hand and complication, which gives the Northflag its signature look. It’s an aesthetic that I’ve really come to appreciate in my time with the watches. It’s a decidedly masculine watch that could easily get lost in a sea of similarly understated efforts, but for this dash of yellow, which really elevates the whole affair and imbues it with a strong sense of identity. The dial also offers excellent legibility thanks to its stark contrast and the use of monobloc luminous ceramic.

Where this watch differs from its predecessors is that the complication is no longer a power reserve indicator, but rather a true GMT function. You may view this as an upgrade or a downgrade depending on the way you wear your watches, but if I had to choose between the two, I’d pick the GMT every time.

The watch stays true to its forebears in its 40-mm sizing, which means it should prove comfortable for the majority of wrists. At 12.7 mm thick, I do wish it were thinner, but it’s worth it for the addition of the GMT. Plus, I became used to it fairly quickly. This slight bulk wouldn’t give me pause if I had the Northflag as part of my regular rotation.

Inside, the Northflag boasts Tudor’s formidable new movement, the MT5652-U, which is both COSC and METAS certified. That means you can enjoy the peace of mind that you’re getting a very accurate timepiece for your AUD$7,780, although it likely won’t affect your day-to-day enjoyment of the watch much. This strenuously tested movement features a silicon balance spring and a 65-hour power reserve, which clears the bar needed to set the watch down after work on a Friday and find it still running when you grab it on your way out the door the following Monday morning.

The movement features an unfussy matte industrial finish, which is a perfect match for the watch’s overall aesthetic. You can observe it through the display caseback, and I found myself doing so more than I expected for something so understated — the geometrical layout of this particular movement that really appealed to me, even without the added decorative flourish of intricate engravings and the like.

Finally, the two-link integrated bracelet is an excellent fit for the Northflag. It boasts satin-brushed and polished finishes and yet maintains a certain rugged heft without sacrificing comfort. The T-fit clasp feels extremely secure and yet is easy to manipulate, while the micro-adjustment functionality, offering an 8-mm window, is always a welcome addition.

As mentioned, you can expect to pay AUD$7,780 for this release at your local Tudor dealer, placing it in the same ballpark as a Black Bay. It’s not as instantly recognisable as Tudor’s signature line of divers. However, that lets it remain a little more incognito, which I like, while maintaining a strong sense of identity.

All in all, the reintroduction of the Northflag has been a pleasant surprise from Tudor and leaves me curious as to what other surprises the brand might have up its sleeve.

Tudor Northflag Key Specs:

• Reference: M9140G1A0U-0001
• Case: Stainless steel with polished and satin-brushed surfaces
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Thickness: 12.7 mm
• Lug-to-lug: 48.8 mm
• Water resistance: 100 metres
• Crystal: Domed sapphire, with a second sapphire crystal on the caseback
• Dial: Black, ceramic luminous hour markers, yellow central seconds and GMT hands, and a 24-hour rehaut
• Movement: Manufacture calibre MT5652-U, automatic with GMT function
• Certification: COSC and METAS Master Chronometer, with accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss
• Power reserve: 65 hours
• Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with T-Fit clasp
• Price: AUD$7,780

Seiko’s 145th Birthday Bash

On Wednesday night, Seiko Australia hosted a swanky soirée celebrating the Japanese watchmaker’s 145th anniversary. Several other members of the Man of Many team and I were in attendance to help celebrate this milestone. We did so by enjoying copious cocktails and ogling the watches on display throughout Watersedge at Campbell’s Stores. It’s a venue with the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge as a fittingly iconic backdrop. Not a bad spot to spend an evening.

In addition to exhibiting its key lines (I came away giving serious consideration to adding a Speedtimer to my collection), Seiko had also arranged a series of live activations. These included a racing simulator to celebrate its Prospex line, a live calligraphy station in tribute to the craftsmanship of King Seiko, and cocktail stations inspired by the Presage range.

All told, it was a fantastic evening. My gratitude to Seiko for having the Man of Many team along, and my gratitude to the universe that I somehow didn’t wake with a hangover the next morning.

A. Lange & Söhne’s New Masterpiece

Over the last couple of years, my appreciation for A. Lange & Söhne has absolutely flourished, and this new Datograph Perpetual will do absolutely nothing to dull my enthusiasm for the German watchmaker.

A brand that possesses one of the most singular and recognisable approaches to aesthetics in watchmaking’s upper echelons, A. Lange & Söhne’s latest is limited to 50 pieces and combines two of watchmaking’s most iconic complications. Twenty years after the first Datograph Perpetual, this release again unites a chronograph and a perpetual calendar with an outsize date, but does so using 950 platinum and a black dial adorned with eleven baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers.

It elevates a timepiece that already occupied space near the pinnacle of contemporary watchmaking. Of course, the price is only available upon request. And as they say, if you have to ask, well, you probably can’t afford it.

In Other Watch News…

G-Shock is Back, Baby!

There was a time when G-Shock was genuinely cool. Most kids I knew at school either had or wanted one, no matter where they sat on the social pecking order. But over time, the brand’s status as the affordable watch with genuine cachet has faded. And it was ultimately overtaken by the likes of Casio’s other, more streamlined digital offerings.

Now, seemingly out of nowhere, G-Shock has come roaring back onto the scene with the new 2500 Series. Dubbed the “CasioNaut” by watch fans due to its passing resemblance to a very high-end sports watch, this nine-strong collection of analogue references is the most enticing move from G-Shock in years. The collection is broad, from serious-looking all-steel models to the bright yellow take above. I think it has the potential to appeal to everyone, from die-hard watch enthusiasts to the most time tellers. This could be a real turning point for G-Shock.

Fossil’s Premiumisation Punt

Last week, Fossil made a play for a more premium positioning with the unveiling of its Swiss-made Signature CS-1 collection. Some members of the team were enthused by both the 38-mm Three-Hand Date Automatic with its Swiss Sellita SW200-1 movement (starting at AUD$1,469) and the 42-mm Master Calendar Chronoquartz (starting at AUD$1,299).

I, on the other hand, found myself less beguiled. I just can’t get on board with paying the American brand up to AUD$1,469 for a quartz-powered release. I’m unmoved by how Swiss-made the brand claims these releases are. The pricing just seems excessive to me. Plus, there’s something about the triple-diamond emblem sitting at the top of each of these dials that irks me. It tarnishes the whole look.

That said, I’m willing to have my mind changed, so I’ll try to get my hands on these releases as soon as I can and report back. Keep an eye out.

Returning to Space with Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross also caught my attention this week with the BR-03 Space Mission. It’s a limited-edition release that uses a miniature spacecraft to indicate the minutes and the Moon to display the hours. While I prefer the brand’s more civilian-friendly BR-05 and BR-X5 lines over its flight instrument-adjacent BR-03 and BR-X3 offerings, I do like it when Bell & Ross takes big swings.

This is just such an occasion. Limited to 999 pieces worldwide, the BR-03 Space Mission is the kind of watch only a true oddball would pick up. I applaud it for that.