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- Vacheron Constantin has refreshed its Fiftysix collection with redesigned two-tone grey tuxedo dials, updated case finishes and new leather straps.
- The 40mm stainless-steel Fiftysix Self-Winding and Complete Calendar reverse the light and dark sections of their sector dials, giving each watch a distinct look.
- Both models are available in Australia, starting at AUD $22,300 for the Self-Winding and AUD $52,500 for the Complete Calendar.
Some things never go out of style. That’s probably why Vacheron Constantin is revisiting its Fiftysix collection with two new stainless-steel models that bring a fresh, retro-inspired look to a design that traces its lineage back to the 1950s.
The Fiftysix Self-Winding and Fiftysix Complete Calendar have been treated to new double-gradient grey tuxedo dials, revised case finishes and anthracite nubuck leather straps. If you look closer, you’ll notice these watches take a contrasting approach to their colour schemes. One goes light in the middle and dark around the edges, while the other flips the arrangement.
It’s a subtle but effective juxtaposition for a collection that debuted in 2018, named and inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s 1956 Reference 6073, the same year as the Melbourne Summer Olympics. That vintage model helped establish the distinctive Maltese Cross-inspired lugs and box-style crystal that remain part of the Fiftysix’s character today. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original formula, but 70 years on from Reference 6073, the design still holds up remarkably well.
1/5A New Look for the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix
Both watches retain their 40 mm stainless-steel cases, although Vacheron Constantin has updated the finishing with vertically brushed case sides and lugs, polished bevels and a polished bezel. The mix of textures adds a playful contrast to the more formal grey tuxedo dials.
The sector-style design is where Vacheron starts to show off a bit. On the Self-Winding, a lighter grey opaline centre sits inside a darker sunburst chapter ring, with a finely textured minute track around the outside. The Complete Calendar reverses the contrast, pairing a darker centre with a lighter outer ring and a black peripheral date scale.
Two sides of the same coin, it’s a clever way to give two watches from the same family their own personality. The Self-Winding looks cleaner and more composed; the Complete Calendar’s darker centre draws your eye to its additional displays.
We’ve seen the Fiftysix experiment with colour before. In an earlier edition of The Wind Up, we featured the MR PORTER-exclusive Fiftysix Day-Date with a petrol-blue dial, a 30-piece limited edition released in 2020. Even if Vacheron Constantin has turned the saturation way down this time, they’re still a handsome couple.
Both feature applied 18-carat white-gold hour markers and hands, with blue-glowing Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. They also feature anthracite nubuck calfskin straps with contrasting ecru stitching and stainless-steel folding clasps.
1/4Two Watches, Two Different Approaches
Turn either watch over to uncover a transparent sapphire caseback that reveals its automatic movement. Both feature the collection’s signature openworked 22-carat pink-gold winding rotor, decorated with the Maltese Cross.
The Complete Calendar’s caseback reveals its more elaborate Calibre 2460 QCL/1, with decorated bridges, visible gears and the gold rotor taking centre stage. The Self-Winding has a similar exhibition caseback, although it houses the simpler Calibre 1326.
Starting with the most straightforward of the two, the Fiftysix Self-Winding (ref. 4600E/000A-H177) measures 9.6 mm thick and keeps things simple with hours, minutes, central seconds and a date window at three o’clock. Its automatic Calibre 1326 offers a 48-hour power reserve.
On the other side is the Fiftysix Complete Calendar (ref. 4000E/000A-H178). At 11.6 mm thick, it displays the day and month through twin apertures beneath 12 o’clock, uses a central hand to indicate the date around the dial and features a moon-phase display at six o’clock.
Everyone loves a moon phase complication. Powered by the automatic Calibre 2460 QCL/1, you’ll only need to adjust the moon phase once every 122 years, as long as the watch keeps running correctly. The Complete Calendar carries the Hallmark of Geneva certification and offers a 40-hour power reserve. However, you’ll still need to adjust the calendar for the shorter months.
Both Fiftysix Models Are Available In Australia
Both watches are water-resistant to 30 metres and are available in Australia. You might even see them on display at the Melbourne boutique that reopened last year. The Fiftysix Self-Winding costs AUD $22,300, while the more complicated Fiftysix Complete Calendar comes in at AUD $52,500.
For a collection built around designs dating back seven decades, Vacheron Constantin hasn’t needed to change much. Sometimes a different shade of grey is enough to make an old favourite look new again.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix – Key Specs
Fiftysix Self-Winding
- Reference: 4600E/000A-H177
- Case: 40mm stainless steel, 9.6mm thick
- Dial: Two-tone grey gradient, date at 3 o’clock
- Movement: Calibre 1326, automatic
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
- Strap: Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather
- Price: AUD $22,300
Fiftysix Complete Calendar
- Reference: 4000E/000A-H178
- Case: 40mm stainless steel, 11.6mm thick
- Dial: Two-tone grey gradient, day/month apertures, pointer date and moon phase
- Movement: Calibre 2460 QCL/1, automatic, Hallmark of Geneva certified
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
- Strap: Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather
- Price: AUD $52,500
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