Sydney’s dining scene has just copped a refreshed new French eatery and it comes from good stock. Located at the base of the classic QT Sydney boutique hotel, Parlour is the brainchild of renowned Gowings and Esther creative director Sean Connolly, bringing an eclectic mix of French favourites to life under the dim luminescence of the art deco icon. Featuring a menu stacked with classics such as escargot, tartare and confit duck and a setting renowned for being ultra boujee, you’d be forgiven for thinking the new Sydney restaurant skews to the higher end of town, but you’d be wrong. A fine dining experience it is not, but rather, a delightful nod to the casual bistros that have for long been the spirit of Paris.
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Found on Sydney’s iconic Market Street, Parlour is an unassuming sojourn from the bustling CBD outside. Low-lit and intimate, the venue immediately reminded me of Bouillon Julien, Edouard Fournier’s classic Parisian eatery, right down to the brass mirror scribbled nonchalantly with menu additions and daily specials. When I learned a little more about Connolly’s classical French training early on in his career, it all made sense.
“I get shivers talking about the technicality of French cooking, it’s thoughtful food that takes three days to get to the plate,” Connolly said. “If I was a film director, Parlour is what a French restaurant would feel like. The venue feels like an evening in Paris.”
The Menu
The refined menu comes littered with favourites, delicately enhanced by some modern Australian touches. From escargot adorned with smoked ham, pea puree and garlic Pernod butter, to the Steak Hache à Cheval made with wagyu brisket and served with frites, fried egg, and pepper sauce, the QT food and beverage creative director has managed to curate a menu of seasonal French dishes that feel elevated and at the same time, highly approachable. Better yet, the culinary legend has tapped former Felix and La Paris Brassie stalwart Kenny Radegonde for head chef duties, and the result speaks for itself.
During our dinner, we worked our way through the menu staples, playing our cards relatively close to home and opting for the house specials. The escargot, while plain on its own, was perfectly assisted by the richness of the pea puree and near-overshadowed by the slightly torched smoked ham. Glistening with juice, the fatty acids from the ham cut through the sweetness of the dish, giving way to a bevy of flavours.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Steak Hache à Cheval won’t be for everyone, but for those who know what they are in for, something special awaits. A staple in casual French dining, Steak Hache à Cheval isn’t like the cuts we’re used to seeing at the local pub.
For this dish, the steak is prepared chopped, arriving more closely resembling a hamburger patty than the traditional rib-eye. As a result, you may find it a little rarer in the middle than you are used to, but for me, the addition of the egg and salt created the subtle lift it needed.
The Bureau
Of course, we couldn’t end the night without test-driving the Coffee Crème Brûlée, which was immaculate, but perhaps the most impressive element of the new eatery wasn’t even the food, but rather the stunning wine cellar, known aptly as ‘The Bureau’. Originally housing a ticket booth for the movie theatre built in 1929, the stunning collection of vinos has been hand-selected by Parlour’s all-female sommelier team and head sommelier Samantha Belt.
Described as a celebration of Old World French wine regions and the New World order of contemporary Australian producers, the wine list showcases over 350 drops. Among them, you’ll find emerging stars and avant-garde producers, many of whom have received international accolades. Throw in a detailed Champagne list and a level of service worthy of the QT name and you’ve got a winning formula.
The Verdict
For me, visiting Parlour felt very much like a trip through Paris’ more subdued parts, in the best possible way. Too often, Australia’s love affair with French food takes on an entirely luxurious approach that feels altogether contrived and over-the-top. Parlour starts simple and builds upon the foundations that Parisians love to plug. Sure, it’s far from cheap, with mains sitting around $20-$30, but it is a far cry from the 18-course degustations that contemporary chefs love to bore diners with.
If Parlour is a signal that approachable French food is finally on its way down under, perhaps there’s a little bit of La Dolce Vita in the air after all. Parlour is located at 49 Market Street in Sydney and is open seven days a week. To make a booking at the chic new French hotspot, follow the link below.
Disclaimer: The author of this article, Nick Hall, was invited to test out the new menu at Parlour as a guest of QT Sydney.
