How Ulysse Nardin Created the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch

“If it’s possible, it’s done. If it’s impossible, it will be done.” These words, spoken in 1876 by Paul-David Nardin, son of the Ulysse Nardin, are a perfect summation of the iconic Swiss maison’s unwavering commitment to advancing the watchmaking craft. 

Essentially saying that, with enough time, Ulysse Nardin will always achieve what others deem impossible, we couldn’t ask for a better demonstration of this than the watchmaker’s latest effort, the record-breaking Diver [AIR]. Combining the pinnacle of horology, technology, and performance to create the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, the Diver [AIR] is nothing short of a masterclass.

Chasing Light

Despite Ulysse Nardin’s formidable track record of folding high horology into sporty watches—see 2001’s Aqua Perpetual and 2021’s Diver X Skeleton for evidence—this latest release sets a new benchmark. Quite simply, the innovation required to ensure the Diver [AIR] would be stronger, sleeker, and, above all, lighter than any of its predecessors is mindboggling. 

To put this in its proper context, let’s look at some historical numbers. This new 44-mm marvel is the latest in a long line of Ulysse Nardin dive watches. However, the most apt comparison comes in the form of the 2019 Ulysse Nardin Diver 44 mm release, which weighed in at 120.5 grams.

While this remains a respectable number for a water-ready watch, out of determination to push the envelope, Ulysse Nardin followed it up with the 2021 release of the aforementioned Diver X Skeleton. This almost cut a whopping 15 grams from the watch, landing at a weight of 105.8 grams. While unquestionably a remarkable effort, the Diver X Skeleton’s weight relief now pales in comparison to the new Diver [AIR].

Jettisoning an enormous 68.6 grams when compared with the Diver 44 mm, the Diver [AIR] not only weighs a fraction of its 2019 forebear, it’s less than half as heavy as the already weight-relieved Diver X Skeleton. It’s an astonishing achievement, coming in under 46 grams without the strap and 52 grams with it.

The Material Facts

You might ask how this was achieved. Using the Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372 movement as a starting point, Ulysse Nardin’s team has outdone itself with the self-winding UN-374 calibre, which removes an enormous amount of material without compromising the Diver [AIR]’s reliability or performance. In fact, the maison’s designers were determined to reduce materials while simultaneously making the movement more robust. 

As materials were removed, those left behind were reconfigured to enhance resilience. For example, the slender bridges that remained were used to form triangles, an inherently strong and stable shape that resists bending and warping. As a result, the space inside the watch consists of a jaw-dropping 80 per cent air and just 20 per cent material. And yet, the UN-374 can withstand an impact up to an enormous 5,000 g.

This design, including the bridges that are mere millimetres wide and hollowed out for maximum weight relief, would not have been possible without the development of new high-tech materials. Fortunately, Ulysse Nardin has over 20 years of expertise in this field. 

Constructing the calibre for the first time using titanium—a material both durable and light, yet notoriously difficult to manipulate—and the case using titanium and carbon fibre, every weight reduction effort was a battle between the brand’s master watchmakers and the scales — a battle that saw Ulysse Nardin’s team emerge victorious.

Doing the Impossible

Bringing the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch into existence doesn’t happen by playing it safe or through incremental upgrades. Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [AIR] showcases a commitment to bold and innovative watchmaking that stays true to Paul-David Nardin’s words from 149 years ago. 

Released with an RRP of AUD$62,300, the world’s lightest and most skeletonised dive watch is limited to just 270 pieces this year. This speaks to the sheer skill required to craft something so meticulous and groundbreaking. After all, when it comes to Ulysse Nardin, if it’s impossible, it will be done.

To learn more about the Diver [AIR] and Ulysse Nardin’s collections, visit The Hour Glass boutiques in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Auckland, or online via the link below.