Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2022

After two years of setbacks and digital-only events, horology’s biggest event, Watches & Wonders, returned to Geneva in 2022. A gathering of the biggest names in watchmaking and jewellery, the trade show offered a rare glimpse at the incredible novelties set to hit showrooms in the coming months, alongside a host of one-off pieces you won’t be able to find anywhere. From outrageous new GMT models from Rolex to the diamond-encrusted TAG Heuer, Watches & Wonders 2022 more than lived up to the expectations. The event ran from March 30 – April 5, 2022 and we were there to take in all the new novelties and one-offs. Here are the top released unveiled at the 2022 Watches & Wonders exhibition.

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II
• Reference Number: 126720VTNR
• Diameter: 40mm
• Case Material: Oystersteel
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: CHF 10,500 (AUD$15,500)

Not even 24 hours into the event, Rolex delivered a standout piece. The GMT-Master II wasn’t just a refreshed version of the iconic timepiece, which was reintroduced in 2021 alongside steel models with Oyster bracelets, it was a mirror image. That’s right, this handy little piece is designed for the lefties. Looking at the timepiece, you can see the crown protruding from the left side of the case, meaning the new Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR is designed for those who wear a watch on their right hand. Outside of the obvious change, Rolex has also bumped the new watch up with a green and black bezel to support the bi-colour Cerachrom bezel and cyclops magnified date window. From a technical perspective, the piece is powered by the ref. 3285 – the 4Hz, 70 hour power reserve in-house calibre.

RELATED: You can check out our rundown of Rolex’s full lineup for Watches & Wonders 2022 here.

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma

Watches & Wonders may be an opportunity for brands to show consumers their latest and greatest, but it also marks a rare chance to think outside the box. For TAG Heuer, that meant dropping around 12kt of lab-grown diamonds into the new Carrera Plasma. The new timepiece features a 44mm sandblasted anodised aluminum case, which houses TAG Heuer’s H02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement. A unique piece of horological innovation, the movement is comprised of a hairspring made of carbon nanotubes, but that hardly factors into your mind when you catch a glimpse of the watch.

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph
• Reference Number: XCBN5A90.FC8315
• Diameter: 44mm
• Calibre: In-House Heuer 02T
• Power Reserve: 65 hours
• Price: AUD$518,900

A total of 48 lab-grown diamonds totalling 4.8kt have been set into the case, while the crown itself is a single piece of lab-grown diamond weighing 2.5kt. From there, the Carrera Plasma’s polycrystalline dial shines through, courtesy of the multiple diamond crystals emblazoned across the structure. While TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault was hesitant to announce just how many of the new pieces would be made, you can bet your bottom dollar they won’t come cheap. The new TAG Heuer could set you back AUD$518,900. Bargain.

RELATED: You can check out our rundown of the new TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma D’Avant Garde here.

Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: Les Historiques 222
• Reference Number: 4200H/222J-B935
• Diameter: 37mm
• Calibre: Vacheron caliber 2455/2
• Power Reserve: 40 hours

All that glitters really is gold, according to Vacheron Constantin. For Watches & Wonders 2022, the horological icon has gone back to the archive books, releasing a new version of the classic 222 model in stunning yellow gold. Complete with the distinctive, hexagonal integrated bracelet, the retro-inspired timepiece appears to be the perfect homage to days gone by, albeit with a few modern touches. Where the 1970s original made use of the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920 movement, the new iteration is powered by Vacheron’s in-house calibre 2455/2. At 37mm, the new Les Historiques 222 plays up to its vintage-inspired dimensions and for that, we’re eternally thankful.

RELATED: You can check out our rundown of the new Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222 here.

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Breitling Navitimer

• Brand: Breitling
• Model: Navitimer
• Diameter: 46mm, 43mm, 41mm
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Calibre: Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: USD$9,400-USD$39,500

The iconic Breitling Navitimer was born 70 years ago and in 2022, it’s making a serious comeback. The celebrated design has been reborn at Watches & Wonders 2022 with an entire range of new Navitimers, arriving in 46mm, 43mm, 41mm, in stainless steel, and red gold. Best of all, there are 13 unique dials to satisfy even the pickiest of watch fans. All of the new pieces are powered by the Calibre 01 and are water-resistant to 30 metres, however, there are some standouts. The 46mm stainless steel model with blue dial is perhaps the truest to the original design, with new additions such as the 18k red gold model with silver and black panda dial are certain to turn heads.

Rolex Deepsea Ref. 136660

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Deepsea
• Reference Number: 136660
• Diameter: 44mm
• Water Resistance: 3,900m
• Calibre: 3235
• Power Reserve: 70
• Price: CHF 13,500

While it might not receive the same fanfare as its GMT sibling, the Rolex Deepsea also copped a refresh for Watches & Wonders 2022. Bearing a striking similarity to the former model, the new addition still features the same 44mm stainless steel design on Oyster bracelet, arriving with either a black dial configuration or a gradient/green text version. The differences are subtle, but they are there. For instance, the bezel has been slimmed slightly, while the date window has been increased to give more precedence to the function. Outside of that, you’ll notice the Fliplock dive extension on the bracelet is also gone, but that’s no big loss.

RELATED: You can check out our rundown of Rolex’s full lineup for Watches & Wonders 2022 here.

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Zenith Chronomaster Open Series

• Brand: Zenith
• Model: Chronomaster Open
• Diameter: 39.5mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: El Primero 3604
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Price: CHF9,900-CHF37,900

Perhaps one of the most influential timepieces ever created, the Zenith Chronomaster is a marvel of modern watchmaking and for 2022, the Swiss Maison has raised the stakes. After putting a wealth of time and effort into the Defy line, Zenith has bolstered the Chronomaster with the El Primero calibre 3600, an updated version of the original 1969 El Primero calibre 400. The headline announcement is the new Chronomaster Open series, a stunning piece that features an exposed escapement, which arrives in variations. The 39.5mm timepiece is a little smaller than previous models, however, it does throw back to the late ’60s era watch dimensions from which the El Primero was born. Within that slender frame, the new Chronomaster Open series packs 16 total components and a power reserve of 60 hours.

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Cartier Collection Privé Tank Chinoise

• Brand: Cartier
• Model: Privé Tank Chinoise
• Diameter: 39.5mm
• Calibre: Cartier calibre 430 MC/Cartier skeletonized calibre 9627 MC
• Power Reserve: 38 hours

French fine-jewellery brand Cartier has announced it is bringing one of its rarest timepieces back from the dead, with the reintroduction of the Privé Tank Chinoise. Exactly 100 years since it debuted, the ground-breaking watch has been reborn with a skeletonized dial to reveal the movement underneath. This time around, the classic horizontal bar pattern, reminscent of traditional windows, still takes precedence, however, there is a unique modernity to this new release. The dial itself is intact and encased in gold, rose gold, and platinum and marks a welcomed return to bold design language for Cartier.

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Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G

• Brand: Tudor
• Model: Black Bay GMT S&G
• Reference Number: M79833MN-0004
• Diameter: 41mm
• Water Resistance: 200 metres
• Calibre: Manufacture Calibre MT5652
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: AUD$5,850

You can mark 2022 down as the year of the GMT. After Rolex made its powerful left-handed move, stablemate Tudor followed suit, unveiling the new Black Bay GMT S&G. The 41mm stainless steel timepiece features an eye-catching yellow gold screw-down crown, set on the 48-notch bidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 24-hours graduated matt brown and black anodised aluminium disc. Inside, Tudor has kept things pretty standard, powering the new design with the same ​​manufacture calibre MT5652 that has done the heavy lifting since 2018.

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Yacht-Master 42
• Diameter: 42mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metre
• Calibre: 3235
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: CHF 27,000

From superstars like Lionel Messi to your stock-standard desk driver, the Rolex Yacht-Master is a grail watch for so many different types. For 2022, the Swiss icon has unveiled two new iterations – one in white gold with a Falcon’s Eye dial, while the other is a Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in yellow gold. According to the brand, both versions will be powered by the same Rolex in-house calibre 3235 that has served the watch since 2019. A little bit more elegant than the usual sporty line, this new version is certain to turn heads on and off the water.

RELATED: You can check out our rundown of Rolex’s full lineup for Watches & Wonders 2022 here.

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Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver Ref.SLGA015

• Brand: Grand Seiko
• Model: Spring Drive Diver
• Reference Number: SLGA015
• Diameter: 43.8mm
• Water Resistance: 200 meters
• Calibre: Spring Drive 9RA5
• Power Reserve: 120 hours
• Price: AUD$17,300

Much has been already discussed about Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive timepieces, but the brand isn’t resting on its laurels. For Watches & Wonders, the brand has introduced a new Spring Drive calibre 9RA5, arriving in a high-intensity titanium case that makes use of the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 silhouette. AS the brand has a habit of doing, Grand Seiko has adorned this new timepiece with a truly stunning dial that features a Black Stream dial texture that Grand Seiko claims is inspired by the Kuroshio Current. At 43.8mm, the new Spring Drive isn’t the slimline release some fans had been calling for, but the new form factor certainly lightens the load.

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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

• Brand: Patek Philippe
• Model: Annual Calendar Travel Time
• Reference Number: 5326G-001
• Diameter: 41mm
• Water Resistance: 3 bar
• Calibre: 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Price: $76,882.

Luxury watch brands don’t get much bigger than Patek Philippe and for Watches & Wonders 2022, the Swiss icon didn’t disappoint. The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G, an exquisite new timepiece that fuses the Travel Time complication with the annual calendar. It features a moonphase display, alongside an indication for local or home time, with date, day of the week, and month windows. Inside the 41mm white gold case, it’s Patek Philippe all over. The new Travel Time is powered by the new calibre, 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H, which allows for a solid 48 hour power reserve.

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Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

• Brand: Grand Seiko
• Model: Spring Drive Chronograph GMT
• Reference Number: SBGC249; SBGC251
• Diameter: 45.3mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: 9R96, SBGC249; 9R86, SBGC251
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$18,500

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Diver might be our favourite release from Watches & Wonders 2022 (so far), however, the new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT isn’t far behind. Similar to its sibling release, the new timepiece cops a renewed form factor inspired by the Evolution 9 design language, meaning it’s a bit bigger, bolder and sharper than ever. Listed at 45.3mm, there’s no missing the new Chronograph GMT, however, the streamlined twin chronograph pushers and three o’clock crown have certainly been slimmed down to make room. What is really interesting is the new bidirectional external 24-hour bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, a seriously impressive addition that turns this watch from interesting to excellent.

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Tudor Black Bay Pro

• Brand: Tudor
• Model: Black Bay Pro
• Reference Number: 79470
• Diameter: 39mm
• Water Resistance: 200 metres
• Calibre: Tudor Manufacture MT5652
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: AUD$5,430

A completely new GMT model, the new Tudor Black Bay Pro is a 39mm sports watch with some serious upside. Featuring a fixed steel 24-hour bezel, the new release comes complete with the MT5652 movement and a domed matte black dial set in a satin-finished steel case.

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A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

• Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
• Model: Odysseus
• Reference Number: 363.117
• Diameter: 40.5mm
• Water Resistance: 120 metres
• Calibre: L155.1 Datomatic
• Power Reserve: 50 hours
• Price: $56,500

For this year’s event, German luxury brand A. Lange & Söhne unveiled the third iteration of its Odysseus timepiece, but there was something a little special about this one. The 2022 edition marks the Maison’s first-ever titanium watch, in terms of case metal. Limited to just 250 pieces worldwide, the new Odysseus is powered by the same L155.1 Datomatic calibre as previous models, however, it will be far lighter, increasing wearability. A seriously exciting move from the heritage brand.

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
• Reference Number: WBP1112.FT6199
• Diameter: 40mm
• Water Resistance: 200 metres
• Calibre: TH50-00
• Price: $2,950

TAG Heuer’s 40mm Aquaracer lineup is among the brand’s most popular and for good reason. Ultra-sturdy and stunningly designed, the timepieces have a ‘modern classic’ vibe that just got a handy new boost. For the first time ever, TAG Heuer has crafted a solar-powered model, entitled the Aquaracer Solargraph. Arriving in a black DLC-coated steel case with a closed caseback, the new piece is reminscent of the Aquaracer Outdoors collection, albeit with a slightly more translucent dial. According to the brand, the movement requires just two minutes of direct sunlight to operate for an entire day, with an additional power save mode engaged by pulling out the crown. New age stuff from the Swiss legend.

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph
• Diameter: 45mm
• Water Resistance: 200 metres
• Calibre: Vacheron in-house calibre 2757

With a name like that, we kind of wish we were getting paid by the word. Vacheron Constantin’s new Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph is the kind of timepiece Watches & Wonders was designed for. Haute Horology in every sense of the phrase, the watch features 698 components and more functions than a Shamwow. Inside, the movement is Vacheron’s in-house calibre 2757, which the brand claims is finished by hand to the highest standard. From a technical standpoint, this might be the most impressive watch of the industry expo so far.

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TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Monaco Gulf Special Edition
• Reference Number: CBL2115.FC6494
• Diameter: 39mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metre
• Calibre: Heuer02 Automatic
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$10,250

From Steve McQueen to Jack Heuer himself, the Monaco has a rich connection to motor racing and in 2022, TAG Heuer has doubled down. The brand unveiled a new Gulf livery-style iteration of the classic square-case watch, complete with the iconic orange and blue colouration and a Gulf stamp near six o’clock. Firmly rooted in vintage aesthetics, the bold colours and typography really suit the Gulf design, giving the timepiece a more contemporary feel than it has any right to own. Inside, the new Monaco is powered by the Calibre Heuer02 Automatic, which features 80 hours of power reserve.

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
• Reference Number: 5000T/000P-B975
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Calibre: 1142 QP
• Power Reserve: 48 hours

A slightly more palatable name than its sibling release, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph arrives with a tasty side of platinum. The 2022 novelty marks a brand first, with the new 43mm model offered in platinum with a salmon dial. In terms of functions, fans will note the full perpetual calendar, 30-minute chronograph and moonphase disc, however, when it comes to actually scoring one of these bad boys, you might be in for a bit of an uphill battle. Reports are suggesting the new release will be priced at north of AUD$150,000, however, that is yet to be confirmed.

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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5320 and Chronograph 5172

• Brand: Patek Philippe
• Reference Number: 5172G; 5320G
• Diameter: 41mm; 40mm
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Calibre: CH 29-535 PS; 324 SQ
• Diameter: 32mm; 28mm
• Power Reserve: 65 hours; 45 hours
• Price: Ref.5172, USD$80,431, Ref.5320 – USD$94,624

Following the salmon dial special ethos put forward by Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe has dipped its toes into the colourful world. Unveiling two new timepieces, the Perpetual Calendar 5320 and Chronograph 5172, Patek Philippe has firmly refined its increbile lineup. The 5320 is the standout, featuring in-line apertures for the day and month above the centre of the dial, alongside a moonphase display with date at six o’clock.

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
• Reference Number: 6000V/110R-B934, 18k pink gold; 6000V/110T-B935, titanium
• Diameter: 42.5mm
• Water Resistance: 50 metres
• Calibre: 2160 SQ
• Power Reserve: 80 hours

Bold, unapologetic and seriously impressive, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas lineup is back and better than ever. Unveiled as a pair, the new Overseas models come with a tourbillon and a fully skeletonized design, presented in either grade-5 titanium or 18-carat pink gold. For those playing along at home, the former is big news. Like A. Lange & Söhne’s new Odysseus, the 2022 Overseas model marks the first time ever that Vacheron Constantin has crafted an all-titanium model with an integrated bracelet. Unbelievable.

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F.P. Journe Vagabondage Gold

• Brand: F.P. Journe
• Model: Vagabondage Gold
• Diameter: 45.2mm
• Case Material: 18-karat 6N gold
• Calibre: In-house calibre 1504.2
• Power Reserve: 50 hours
• Price: CHF 86,000

With an allocation of just 86 pieces worldwide and a price tag of CHF86,000, it’s unlikely you’ll ever get your hands on the new F.P. Journe Vagabondage Gold, but that won’t stop us from trying. The latest 45.2mm iteration is a callback to the brand’s unique past, bearing a slight similarity to 2004’s platinum-cased Vagabondage, albeit with a few sharp upgrades. This time around, F.P. Journe has added an updated manual-wind calibre 1504.2 movement, housed within the solid 18-carat gold case. The iconic rounded numerals still feature prominently, alongside the host of subtle luxury highlights which are certain to delight collectors. That in itself is a good thing, as Journe also confirmed that existing collectors will be offered first dibs on the watch, with this release bearing matching serial numbers to previous Vagabondage releases.

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H. Moser & Cie. ‘Blacker Than Black’

• Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
• Model: Streamliner Chronograph ‘Blacker Than Black’
• Case Material: Vantablack

Perhaps the most interesting watch unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, the new Streamliner Chronograph ‘Blacker Than Black’ from H. Moser & Cie. is a true head-turner. The new timepiece is covered with Vantablack, the blackest substance ever produced artificially, from its dial to its case, right down to its integrated bracelet. The result is truly unique. Pictured against a black surface, the watch disappears into its background, indistinguishable to the naked eye, except for its hour and minute hands. Composed of carbon nanostructures and absorbing 99.965% of light, Vantablack is an extremely delicate substance to handle and as a result, H. Moser & Cie. has confirmed the unique piece is still too fragile to be worn on the wrist. That being said, it’s still an incredible feat of ingenuity.

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Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

• Brand: Grand Seiko
• Model: Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
• Reference: Ref.SLGT003
• Diameter: 35mm
• Case Material: Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium
• Calibre: Calibre 9ST1
• Power Reserve: 72 hours

Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication, the new Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon combines a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. Named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat, the timepiece follows on from Grand Seiko’s T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept that was unveiled in 2020. This time around, all 340 components of the calibre have been re-examined to create the calibre 9ST1, a smaller but more accurate version of its predecessor. Arriving in a case constructed from both Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium, the new Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon might just be Grand Seiko’s most innovative timepiece ever, and that really is saying something.

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Cartier Santos Dumont

• Brand: Cartier
• Model: Santos Dumont
• Diameter: 43.5mm
• Case Material: Rose gold
• Movement: Manual winding, manufacture 430 MC
• Power Reserve: 38 hours
• Price: €12,000 (AUD$17,700)

Cartier’s style of watchmaking has been traditionally to the point. Sharp and elegant but somewhat reserved, the fine jewellery maker’s releases have a certain air to them that few other brands can boast, and the new Santos Dumont is a perfect encapsulation of this. First designed for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, the modern aviation watch is conservative by nature, however, in 2022, Cartier has turned the screws. The 43.5mm timepiece has been reborn in rose gold, with a unique beige lacquer dial and matching bezel. Far from an obvious colour choice, the new palette stands out against its contemporary siblings, giving it an unapologetically eye-catching aesthetic. Of course, the classic thin square case design features prominently, alongside Cartier’s manual winding, manufacture 430 MC, but the neutral finish to the dial and bezel give this piece a refreshing look that is subtle in its WOW factor.

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Hublot Square Bang

• Brand: Hublot
• Model: Square Bang
• Reference Number: All Black 821.CX.0140.RX Limited to 250 pieces; Titanium Ceramic 821.NM.0170.RX; Titanium: 821.NX.0170.RX; King Gold Ceramic 821.OM.0180.RX; King Gold 821.OX.0180.RX
• Diameter: 42mm
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Calibre: HUB1280 Unico Manufacture
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: All Black: $26,200 (AUD$35,000); Titanium Ceramic $24,100 (AUD$32,100); Titanium $23,100 (ADU$30,800); King Gold Ceramic $39,000 (AUD$52,000); King Gold $43,100 (AUD$57,000)

Square watches are back, baby. With TAG Heuer putting its faith back into the Monaco, Hublot is taking a sharp new approach to arguably its most iconic timepiece. For the first time ever, Hublot has unveiled a square version of the Big Bang, marking a stark departure from its traditional rounded models. Importantly, Hublot has maintained a modular construction for this iteration, comprised of a central housing complemented by an upper and lower plate, a design language continued on the dial. At 42mm, the new Square Bang is far from small, with the sharp-edge release delivered in either solid titanium, black ceramic, or King Gold, and two-blend titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. Inside each, you’ll find the HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement, a stunning piece of technology that comes complete with 354 components. Simply outstanding.

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Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: eSteel Submersible
• Reference Number: PAM01287(green), PAM01288(grey), PAM01289(blue)
• Diameter: 44mm
• Water Resistance: 300M
• Calibre: P.900
• Power Reserve: 3 days (72 hours)
• Price: CHF 10,900

Italian Maison Panerai is renowned for its connection to the ocean and environment, but for 2022, the brand has doubled down. Taking its awe-inspiring Submersible and reimagining it for a modern age, the brand has unveiled the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel, an ultra-sustainable adaption with all the bells and whistles. Crafted from eSteel, Panerai’s sustainably-sourced case material, the new lineup arrives in three matching dial and bezel colours: Verde Smeraldo, Grigio Roccia, and Blu Profondo. The iconic unidirectional rotating dive bezel is still on display, with Panerai’s classic P.900 movement powering the all-new iteration. Importantly however, the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a bold path to a new future. A total of 72g of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro is made from recycled materials, representing more than half of the complete weight of the watch. Truly, Panerai is working towards the bigger picture and the new eSteel lineup is a great way to kick this off.

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Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88

• Brand: Montblanc
• Model: 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88; 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE18; 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58
• Reference Number: 129614, Red Arrow LE88; 129622, Unveiled Secret LE18; 129613, Unveiled Secret LE58
• Diameter: 42mm, Red Arrow LE88; 43mm, Unveiled Secret LE18; 43mm, Unveiled Secret LE58
• Calibre: Manufacture MB M13.21, Red Arrow LE88; Manufacture MB M16.26, Unveiled Secret LE18 and Unveiled Secret LE58
• Price: $30,500, Red Arrow LE88; $48,000, Unveiled Secret LE18; $33,500, Unveiled Secret LE58

Montblanc’s approach to Watches & Wonders for 2022 has been firmly in the chronograph space, and we’re thankful for it. The Maison’s new 1858 Monopusher Chronograph lineup was an unexpected winner, arriving with three new timepieces, each representing a different aspect of classic luxury. Diving a bit deeper, the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88 is a standout piece that features an 18k white-gold fluted rotating bezel, complete with a signature red arrow. The 42mm stainless steel timepiece is powered by the MB 13.21 movement, however, it’s the design choices on the dial that really steal the show. Capturing Montblanc’s eye for detail, the new Chronograph is one of the most aesthetically pleasing releases of the year, a feat carried through to the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE18 and the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58.

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Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon

• Brand: Roger Dubuis
• Model: Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon
• Diameter: 45mm
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Calibre: RD115
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: Knights of the Round Table; $830,000

It’s no secret that Roger Dubuis makes incredible watches, but the new Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon is something else entirely. Haute Horology at its finest, the new timepiece takes aim at the iconic King Arthur story by placing the manual-wind calibre RD115 tourbillon movement, the first central tourbillon movement created by Roger Dubuis, in the middle of the 45mm dial. Surrounding it are 12 knight figures sculpted from pink gold, with the time shown via a pair of gold markers. Limited to just eight pieces worldwide, the new Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon is the true embodiment of Roger Dubuis’ fine balance between art and watchmaking excellence. Unbelievable, to say the least.

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F.P. Journe The Automatique

• Brand: F.P. Journe
• Model: Automatique
• Diameter: 40mm; 42mm
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Calibre: 1300.3, in 18k rose gold
• Power Reserve: 160 hours

Another stunning release from F.P. Journe for 2022, The Automatique arrives in either a 40mm or 42mm case, in your choice of platinum or 18k 6N gold. Best of all, the updated timepiece now boasts the calibre 1300.3 movement, which dishes out an incredible 160 hours power reserve. It’s the first time the new movement has featured in the new catalogue and for The Automatique, it comes with an off-centred rotor that winds the movement unidirectionally.

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Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

• Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
• Model: Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
• Reference Number: PFC905-102000B-100182
• Diameter: 40mm
• Water Resistance: 60 metres
• Calibre: PF051
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Price: USD$28,700 (AUD$38,300)

Parmigiani’s Tonda PF lineup is one of the brand’s best-loved and for Watches & Wonders 2022, the Maison took a bold new approach. Removing the date window and adding a central rose gold 12-hour hand, the new Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante has a sleeker design language than its predecessor, along with some reinvented functionality. The new 4omm timepiece is a GMT of sorts, with a press of the pusher at seven o’clock jumping the white gold hour hand forward by one hour. Impressively, the 18-carat rose gold hour hand remains set to your ‘home’ base, allowing you to always keep track of your base location. Once the trip is complete, you simply hit the pusher at three o’clock crown and the white-gold hand will return to its position on top of the rose gold hand, at “home” time.

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Aquaracer Professional Superdiver
• Reference Number: WBP5A8A.BF0619
• Diameter: 45mm
• Water Resistance: 1000m
• Calibre: TH30-00
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: AUD$9,650

TAG Heuer is renowned for its dive watch portfolio, but for Watches & Wonders 2022, the iconic brand stepped things up. In addition to the solar-powered beast, TAG Heuer also revealed a new Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver, a 45mm stunner wrapped in grade 5 titanium. Arguably the brand’s most robust timepiece, the new Superdiver is water-resistant to a ridiculous 1,000 metres, receiving ISO 6425:2018 certification. It all comes by way of the brand new COSC certified calibre TH30-00, an innovation that marks the first collaboration between TAG Heuer and movement manufacturer Kenissi. Aside from that, the combo of orange and black on the ceramic bezel and matching dial/hands makes for one good looking piece of kit.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

• Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
• Model: Polaris Perpetual Calendar
• Reference Number: Ref. Q9088480 (steel), ref. Q9082480 (pink gold)
• Diameter: 42mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: JLC 868Q
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: €37,700 (AUD$54,800) – Gold; €25,600 (AUD$37,200) – Stainless steel

While many expected Grand Maison Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) to drop a new variation of its much-loved Reverso, the brand instead choose to revamp the Polaris Perpetual Calendar, and we’re eternally thankful. The sporty release was originally born in the 1960s and the latest iteration features many of the same elements, such as the dual crown setup, however, this time around JLC has bolstered it with a new display for the Southern Hemisphere moonphase. With a stunning blue dial and a power reserve of 70 hours, the new Polaris Perpetual Calendar is hard to ignore.

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Rolex Day-Date 40 Platinum

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Day-Date
• Diameter: 40mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: Rolex calibre 3255

Rolex fans finally got what they have been waiting for. After calling on the brand to release a large scale Day-Date with fluted bezel, the brand responded, unveiling a 40mm version of the hit timepiece, complete with calibre 3255. Crafted from platinum and highlighted by the aforementioned bezel update, the new Rolex release is a breathtaking display of modern elegance. In fact, looking at the glitz and glamour of the new watch, it’s hard to imagine anyone other than Jay-Z or Diddy rocking it. Nevertheless, you can bet this new release, much like its sibling pieces, will be gone long before it ever hits shelves.

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Baume & Mercier Riviera Baumatic M0A10702

• Brand: Baume & Mercier
• Model: Riviera Baumatic
• Refernce: Ref.M0A10702
• Diameter: 42mm
• Power reserve: 120 hours
• Price: AUD$5,650

An unexpected winner in our eyes, the new Baume & Mercier Riviera Baumatic M0A10702 takes a heritage icon and redefines it for the modern age. Featuring a 42mm steel case, the new Riviera Baumatic is adorned with a dodecagonal bezel with twelve sides and four screws, giving it a uniquely contemporary aesthetic. While there are nods to the original 1973 model, Baume & Mercier has elevated the release with a smoky grey sapphire dial and an integrated steel strap. Most impressive of all, however, is the Baumatic manufacture movement, which dishes out a solid 120 hours power reserve. Effortlessly stylish and sophisticated to boot, Baume & Mercier’s latest release represents some serious value for money.

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Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

• Brand: Cartier
• Model: Masse Mystérieuse
• Diameter: 43.5mm
• Calibre: Cartier automatic calibre 9801 MC
• Power Reserve: 42 hours

For decades, Cartier has made a name for itself crafting ‘mysterious’ movements and clocks – timepieces that remain entirely ambiguous in their mechanisms, and the new Cartier Masse Mystérieuse carries on the tradition. Complete with a skeletonised, oscillating weight, the new timepiece is a truly outstanding piece of Haute Horology. It boasts an in-house 9801 MC movement that acts seemingly as the rotor, giving the watch’s hands a floating appearance across the dial. Naturally, Cartier has adorned the new 43.5mm Masse Mystérieuse with 950/1000 platinum, meaning this masterpiece of craftsmanship will be far from cheap, especially considering it’s limited to just 30 pieces worldwide. Cartier has done it again.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Porsche Chronograph
• Reference Number: CBN2A1F.FC6492 (strap), CBN2A1F.BA0643 (bracelet)
• Diameter: 44mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: Heuer 02 Automatic
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$10,250

The long and storied connection between TAG Heuer and Porsche has been explored in detail many times before, and for Watches & Wonders 2022, the two brands joined forces once again. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph takes inspiration from Porsche’s performance vehicle lineup, highlighted by yellow racing accents contrast against black DLC coating. In fact, the dial of the new 44mm timepiece has even been updated to ‘asphalt’. Inside, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is powered by the iconic Heuer 02 calibre, which features a column wheel and a more than handy 80-hour power reserve. Sleek and sporty, this Carrera might be one of TAG Heuer’s crowning achievements.

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A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1

• Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
• Model: Grand Lange 1
• Reference Number: 137.038, white gold; 137.033, pink gold
• Diameter: 41mm
• Calibre: L095.1
• Price: USD$48,100 (AUD$63,800)

German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne used Watches & Wonders 2022 to update one of its most influential pieces, revamping the Lange 1 to unveil the new Grand Lange 1. Arriving in either 18-carat white or pink gold, the 41mm release features a solid silver-grey dial and the classic off-centred time indications. From the Up/Down power-reserve display to the gold-framed date indication, no function is left unutilised. Simply stunning.

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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

• Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
• Model: Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
• Reference Number: 3811-1200
• Diameter: 42.8mm
• Water Resistance: 120 metres
• Calibre: HMC 811
• Power Reserve: 74 hours
• Price: USD$86,900 (AUD$115,000)

Innovative watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. took to the watch expo this year to unveil a number of new pieces, but perhaps the most interesting is the new Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. The timepiece features a cylindrical hairspring and one-minute flying tourbillon combination all-in-one, powered by an in-house calibre HMC 811. Full open-worked and bursting with charisma, the new watch is immediately eye-catching, particularly when you throw in the signature Funky Blue fumé colouration. Inside, the Pioneer’s cylindrical hairspring is complemented by a one-minute flying tourbillon, which has no upper bridge. Instead, the cage itself is hand-finished with visible anglage and highlighted by Moser’s signature curved hairspring stud. To be honest, it would take an age to explain this incredible piece of watchmaking innovation in full detail, so we’ll leave it at that.

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Chopard Full Strike Tourbillon

• Brand: Chopard
• Model: Full Strike Tourbillon
• Diameter: 42.5mm
• Calibre: Chopard L.U.C 08.01-L

Chopard’s booth at Watches & Wonders is always a thrill and this year was no exception. The brand unveiled a new Full Strike Tourbillon, which houses a repeating mechanism that rotates once per minute. Featuring an 18-carat gold guilloché-decorated dial, the new timepiece is a more traditional release than its transparent sibling, the Sapphire Full Strike, however, the upper tourbillon bridge is made out of transparent sapphire, so you can still see a bit of movement.

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium

• Brand: IWC
• Model: Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium
• Reference Number: IW388106
• Diameter: 41.1mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: IWC 69385
• Power Reserve: 46 hours

For perennial fan favourite IWC, Watches & Wonders 2022 marked a renewed focus on the TOP GUN range, with a number of new releases headlining the brand’s offering. While each represented a unique take, the standout piece was the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium, IWC’s first 41mm chronograph crafted fully from the incredible material. Blacked out for good measure, the new chronograph is a seriously stealthy piece of kit with the case, pushers, and crown all made of Ceratanium, while the caseback makes use of a tinted crystal. Peering through that very feature, you’ll note the 69385 chronograph movement, an innovation that features a wound column-wheel chronograph movement with a day/date display and a 12-hour maximum chronograph measure. Fitted to a black textile strap with a matching Ceratanium buckle, the latest Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium is designed for the sharp and sleek adventurer.

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Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic

• Brand: Hublot
• Model: Big Bang Integral Ceramic
• Reference Numbers: 451.GX.5220.GX (Jungle Green), 451.EX.5210.EX (Blue Indigo), 451.CZ.4620.CZ (Sand Beige), 451.EX.5129.EX (Sky Blue)
• Diameter: 42mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: Hublot Unico HUB1280
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: $24,100

Hublot‘s Big Bang Integral Ceramic is known for being a little out there and the 2022 editions take things even further. In addition to the previous grey, white, or blue options, Hublot has unveiled four new limited edition colourways in Jungle Green, Blue Indigo, Sand Beige, and Sky Blue, each limited to 250 pieces worldwide. The 42mm cases are fitted to a matching full ceramic bracelet, while inside, the Hublot Unico HUB1280 automatic chronograph movement keeps things running smoothly. While not a complete overhaul, the collector’s piece does nothing to damage Hublot’s reputation for avant-garde excellence.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Star

• Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
• Model: Rendez-Vous Star
• Reference Numbers: Q36434C1 – white gold version, Q36424C1 – pink gold version
• Diameter: 36mm
• Water Resistance: 5 bar
• Calibre: Automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 734
• Power Reserve: 70 hours

If you catch a glimpse of a shooting star just once in your life, you consider yourself lucky, however, for Watches & Wonders 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre has given us two. The Grand Maison unveiled the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star, in both white gold and pink gold, representing a lifetime of incredible design laid bare. For this stunning 36mm release, the heritage watchmaker fabricated an entirely new automatic calibre 734 mechanism conceived and developed within the Manufacture. The shooting star element comes by way of the three-disc setup, which is adorned with miniature hand-painted clouds and a crescent moon. A rotating circular disc of titanium with a cut-out of the shooting star sits on the bottom layer that when activated, spins to send the star on its curving path across the upper dial. To define the trajectory of the shooting star, JLC then set a three-quarter circle of diamonds into the sapphire glass dial. Naturally, the bezel is set with a circle of diamonds, while the upper surfaces of the lugs and the top of the crown are also diamond-set. Simply incredible.

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Patek Philippe 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph Ref. 5470P-001

• Brand: Patek Philippe
• Model: 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
• Reference Number: Ref. 5470P-001
• Diameter: 41mm
• Water Resistance: 30 metre
• Calibre: Calibre CH 29-535 PS 1/10
• Power Reserve: 48 hours

Grand Maison Patek Philippe used Watches & Wonders this year to unveil 13 new timepieces, however, the standout was the 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph. A unique sporty play on the high-performance grand complication, the incredible piece is the first chronograph wristwatch in the Patek lineup capable of measuring and displaying tenths of seconds. It was designed using 31 patents, seven of which are completely new to this reference, and features Patek’s patented Oscillomax system. Inside the 41mm platinum case, the brand has bolstered this piece of horological ingenuity with a manually-wound calibre CH29-535 PS 1/10 chronograph movement. Truly, this could be the pick of the timepieces for Watches & Wonders this year.

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Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date

• Brand: Montblanc
• Model: 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
• Reference Number: 129369
• Diameter: 41mm
• Calibre: MB 24.17
• Water Resistance: 300 metres
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Price: AUD$3,190

Montblanc‘s first-ever sports diving watch, the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date is a serious piece of work. Designed to tackle even the most extreme of conditions, the venture into new territory arrives with water-resistance of 300 metres and a solid power reserve of 42 hours. Like all good dive watches should, it features a unidirectional bicolour ceramic bezel and is powered by the automatic, self-winding MB 24.17 calibre. Perhaps most impressive of all is that Montblanc has managed to transfer its design language across to the sports world. The 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date’s glacier pattern dial, aside from being absolutely stunning, is a reference to Mer de Glace – Sea of Ice – the main glacier of the Mont-Blanc Massif.

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Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400

• Brand: Oris
• Model: ProPilot X Calibre 400
• Diameter: 39mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Caliber: Calibre 400
• Power Reserve: 120 hours
• Price: CHF3,900

Over the past few years, Oris has really upped its game. The Swiss brand recently introduced its in-house calibre 400 movement, which not only offered precise functionality, it did so at an accessible price point. For this year’s event, Oris debuted the new ProPilot X Calibre 400, a titanium stunner that arrives with either a grey, blue or salmon dial. The 39mm release offers a hefty 120 hours power reserve through its purely automotive design and features a refreshing simple dial layout. An unassuming timepiece, the new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 has all the hallmarks of a best-seller.

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “IWC Lake Tahoe”

• Brand: IWC
• Model: Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “IWC Lake Tahoe”
• Reference Number: IW389105
• Diameter: 44.5mm
• Water Resistance: 6 bar
• Calibre: IWC 69380
• Power Reserve: 46 hours

In addition to the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium update, IWC Schaffhausen also stepped things up with the new Lake Tahoe release. At 44.5mm in diameter, this variation of the mechanical chronograph is a little bigger than its stablemate and it shows. Arriving in a ceramic case, it features a pitch-black dial and matching black hands coated with luminescent material. The stunning stainless steel pushers, crown, and titanium case back contrast beautifully with the white motif, giving this robust and durable timepiece an unforgettable aesthetic. Further to that, the new IWC timepiece is powered bu the in-house manufactured automatic self-winding movement that features 231 components and offers a cool 46 hours power reserve. Seriously impressive stuff from the iconic Maison.

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NOMOS Club Campus

• Brand: NOMOS
• Model: Club Campus
• Diameter: 36mm; 38.5mm
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Calibre: Alpha
• Power Reserve: 43 hours
• Price: USD$1,500; USD$1,650

Flying a little under the radar, the NOMOS Club Campus is a true value for money option. The ultra-robust steel piece offers classic styling and an impressive 43 power reserve, without the price tag. For Watches & Wonders 2022, the brand unveiled two new iterations of the watch in Blue Purple and Deep Pink, each arriving in 36mm and 38.5mm sizing. Bold colours and solid performance headline this new lineup, which is more or less identical to its predecessor. The in-house Alpha calibre is still going strong and the bold neon orange minute and second numerals speak to the German brand’s quest for design simplicity.

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Watches & Wonders 2022 FAQs