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After a blockbuster opening few days, Watches & Wonders 2022 took a sharp step forward. While some of the big-name players had already shown their hand, a number of boutique manufacturers and traditional Maisons proved they still had a few cards up their sleeves. From F.P. Journe’s incredible Vagabondage Gold to Hublot‘s brand new square-shaped Bang, the watch expo has continued to deliver some surprising beasts. Here are our top picks from days three and four.
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Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2022 – Part 1
Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2022 – Part 2
Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2022 – Part 4
Watches & Wonders 2023: A Complete Guide to the Watch Trade Show
Image: F.P. Journe
F.P. Journe Vagabondage Gold
With an allocation of just 86 pieces worldwide and a price tag of CHF86,000, it’s unlikely you’ll ever get your hands on the new F.P. Journe Vagabondage Gold, but that won’t stop us from trying. The latest 45.2mm iteration is a callback to the brand’s unique past, bearing a slight similarity to 2004’s platinum-cased Vagabondage, albeit with a few sharp upgrades. This time around, F.P. Journe has added an updated manual-wind calibre 1504.2 movement, housed within the solid 18-carat gold case. The iconic rounded numerals still feature prominently, alongside the host of subtle luxury highlights which are certain to delight collectors. That in itself is a good thing, as Journe also confirmed that existing collectors will be offered first dibs on the watch, with this release bearing matching serial numbers to previous Vagabondage releases.
Brand: F.P. Journe
Model: Vagabondage Gold
Diameter: 45.2mm
Case Material: 18-karat 6N gold
Calibre: In-house calibre 1504.2
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Price: CHF 86,000
Image: H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie. ‘Blacker Than Black’
Perhaps the most interesting watch unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, the new Streamliner Chronograph ‘Blacker Than Black’ from H. Moser & Cie. is a true head-turner. The new timepiece is covered with Vantablack, the blackest substance ever produced artificially, from its dial to its case, right down to its integrated bracelet. The result is truly unique. Pictured against a black surface, the watch disappears into its background, indistinguishable to the naked eye, except for its hour and minute hands. Composed of carbon nanostructures and absorbing 99.965% of light, Vantablack is an extremely delicate substance to handle and as a result, H. Moser & Cie. has confirmed the unique piece is still too fragile to be worn on the wrist. That being said, it’s still an incredible feat of ingenuity.
Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
Model: Streamliner Chronograph ‘Blacker Than Black’
Case Material: Vantablack
Image: Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication, the new Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon combines a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. Named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat, the timepiece follows on from Grand Seiko’s T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept that was unveiled in 2020. This time around, all 340 components of the calibre have been re-examined to create the calibre 9ST1, a smaller but more accurate version of its predecessor. Arriving in a case constructed from both Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium, the new Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon might just be Grand Seiko’s most innovative timepiece ever, and that really is saying something.
Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
Reference: Ref.SLGT003
Diameter: 35mm
Case Material: Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium
Calibre: Calibre 9ST1
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Image: Cartier
Cartier Santos Dumont
Cartier’s style of watchmaking has been traditionally to the point. Sharp and elegant but somewhat reserved, the fine jewellery maker’s releases have a certain air to them that few other brands can boast, and the new Santos Dumont is a perfect encapsulation of this. First designed for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, the modern aviation watch is conservative by nature, however, in 2022, Cartier has turned the screws. The 43.5mm timepiece has been reborn in rose gold, with a unique beige lacquer dial and matching bezel. Far from an obvious colour choice, the new palette stands out against its contemporary siblings, giving it an unapologetically eye-catching aesthetic. Of course, the classic thin square case design features prominently, alongside Cartier’s manual winding, manufacture 430 MC, but the neutral finish to the dial and bezel give this piece a refreshing look that is subtle in its WOW factor.
Brand: Cartier
Model: Santos Dumont
Diameter: 43.5mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Movement: Manual winding, manufacture 430 MC
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Price: €12,000 (AUD$17,700)
Image: Hublot
Hublot Square Bang
Square watches are back, baby. With TAG Heuer putting its faith back into the Monaco, Hublot is taking a sharp new approach to arguably its most iconic timepiece. For the first time ever, Hublot has unveiled a square version of the Big Bang, marking a stark departure from its traditional rounded models. Importantly, Hublot has maintained a modular construction for this iteration, comprised of a central housing complemented by an upper and lower plate, a design language continued on the dial. At 42mm, the new Square Bang is far from small, with the sharp-edge release delivered in either solid titanium, black ceramic, or King Gold, and two-blend titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. Inside each, you’ll find the HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement, a stunning piece of technology that comes complete with 354 components. Simply outstanding.
Brand: Hublot
Model: Square Bang
Reference Number: All Black 821.CX.0140.RX Limited to 250 pieces; Titanium Ceramic 821.NM.0170.RX; Titanium: 821.NX.0170.RX; King Gold Ceramic 821.OM.0180.RX; King Gold 821.OX.0180.RX
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: HUB1280 Unico Manufacture
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Price: All Black: $26,200 (AUD$35,000); Titanium Ceramic $24,100 (AUD$32,100); Titanium $23,100 (ADU$30,800); King Gold Ceramic $39,000 (AUD$52,000); King Gold $43,100 (AUD$57,000)
Image: Panerai
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel
Italian Maison Panerai is renowned for its connection to the ocean and environment, but for 2022, the brand has doubled down. Taking its awe-inspiring Submersible and reimagining it for a modern age, the brand has unveiled the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel, an ultra-sustainable adaption with all the bells and whistles. Crafted from eSteel, Panerai’s sustainably-sourced case material, the new lineup arrives in three matching dial and bezel colours: Verde Smeraldo, Grigio Roccia, and Blu Profondo. The iconic unidirectional rotating dive bezel is still on display, with Panerai’s classic P.900 movement powering the all-new iteration. Importantly however, the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a bold path to a new future. A total of 72g of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro is made from recycled materials, representing more than half of the complete weight of the watch. Truly, Panerai is working towards the bigger picture and the new eSteel lineup is a great way to kick this off.
Brand: Panerai
Model: eSteel Submersible
Reference Number: PAM01287(green), PAM01288(grey), PAM01289(blue)
Diameter: 44mm
Water Resistance: 300M
Calibre: P.900
Power Reserve: 3 days (72 hours)
Price: CHF 10,900
Image: Montblanc
Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88
Montblanc’s approach to Watches & Wonders for 2022 has been firmly in the chronograph space, and we’re thankful for it. The Maison’s new 1858 Monopusher Chronograph lineup was an unexpected winner, arriving with three new timepieces, each representing a different aspect of classic luxury. Diving a bit deeper, the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88 is a standout piece that features an 18k white-gold fluted rotating bezel, complete with a signature red arrow. The 42mm stainless steel timepiece is powered by the MB 13.21 movement, however, it’s the design choices on the dial that really steal the show. Capturing Montblanc’s eye for detail, the new Chronograph is one of the most aesthetically pleasing releases of the year, a feat carried through to the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE18 and the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58.
Brand: Montblanc
Model: 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88; 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE18; 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58
Reference Number: 129614, Red Arrow LE88; 129622, Unveiled Secret LE18; 129613, Unveiled Secret LE58
Diameter: 42mm, Red Arrow LE88; 43mm, Unveiled Secret LE18; 43mm, Unveiled Secret LE58
Calibre: Manufacture MB M13.21, Red Arrow LE88; Manufacture MB M16.26, Unveiled Secret LE18 and Unveiled Secret LE58
Price: $30,500, Red Arrow LE88; $48,000, Unveiled Secret LE18; $33,500, Unveiled Secret LE58
Image: Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon
It’s no secret that Roger Dubuis makes incredible watches, but the new Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon is something else entirely. Haute Horology at its finest, the new timepiece takes aim at the iconic King Arthur story by placing the manual-wind calibre RD115 tourbillon movement, the first central tourbillon movement created by Roger Dubuis, in the middle of the 45mm dial. Surrounding it are 12 knight figures sculpted from pink gold, with the time shown via a pair of gold markers. Limited to just eight pieces worldwide, the new Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon is the true embodiment of Roger Dubuis’ fine balance between art and watchmaking excellence. Unbelievable, to say the least.
Brand: Roger Dubuis
Model: Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon
Diameter: 45mm
Water Resistance: 30 metres
Calibre: RD115
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Price: Knights of the Round Table; $830,000
Image: F.P. Journe
F.P. Journe The Automatique
Another stunning release from F.P. Journe for 2022, The Automatique arrives in either a 40mm or 42mm case, in your choice of platinum or 18k 6N gold. Best of all, the updated timepiece now boasts the calibre 1300.3 movement, which dishes out an incredible 160 hours power reserve. It’s the first time the new movement has featured in the new catalogue and for The Automatique, it comes with an off-centred rotor that winds the movement unidirectionally.
Brand: F.P. Journe
Model: Automatique
Diameter: 40mm; 42mm
Water Resistance: 30 metres
Calibre: 1300.3, in 18k rose gold
Power Reserve: 160 hours
Image: Parmigiani
Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Parmigiani’s Tonda PF lineup is one of the brand’s best-loved and for Watches & Wonders 2022, the Maison took a bold new approach. Removing the date window and adding a central rose gold 12-hour hand, the new Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante has a sleeker design language than its predecessor, along with some reinvented functionality. The new 4omm timepiece is a GMT of sorts, with a press of the pusher at seven o’clock jumping the white gold hour hand forward by one hour. Impressively, the 18-carat rose gold hour hand remains set to your ‘home’ base, allowing you to always keep track of your base location. Once the trip is complete, you simply hit the pusher at three o’clock crown and the white-gold hand will return to its position on top of the rose gold hand, at “home” time.
Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
Model: Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Reference Number: PFC905-102000B-100182
Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 60 metres
Calibre: PF051
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Price: USD$28,700 (AUD$38,300)
General FAQs
For Watches & Wonders 2022, Rolex unveiled a new left-handed Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR, Deepsea Ref. 136660 and Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42.
This year, for Watches & Wonders 2022, there are a total of 38 exhibitors including: A. Lange & Söhne, Angelus, Armin Strom, Arnold & Son, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Cyrus Genève, Czapek & Cie, Ferdinand Berthoud, Grand Seiko, Hermès, Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Ferrier, Montblanc, H. Moser & Cie., Oris, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Rebellion Timepieces, Ressence, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, Speake-Marin, TAG Heuer, Trilobe, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Zenith.
