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In this week’s instalment of our regular watch-focused series, The Wind Up, we have some pretty amazing watches from a broad spectrum of watchmakers. From the Australian-based watchmaker Bow & Stern to the enigmatic Ulysse Nardin, and everything else in between. So, as always, our fellow watch-loving friends, sit back and enjoy!
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The Wind Up – Watch News #101
Bow & Stern Abyss Automatic
Combining a striking aesthetic with a deep-diving functionality, the Bow & Stern Abyss Automatic is a prime example of the beautiful duality that dive watches have. Whether you’re diving the depths of the ocean or sipping on a pint of beer down at your local, the Abyss Automatic definitely has you covered. This particular model features an amazing brushed gold 41.50mm wide case, a clean milky white dial, numeral indices and hands in matching brushed gold and a robust nature that looks like it can handle the best and the worst that life can throw at it. Better yet, as an avid reader of The Wind Up, we’re giving you a Man of Many exclusive offer: 20% off of the retail price as well as 2 free NATO straps. All you have to do is follow the link below and use the code MANOFMANY. Enjoy!
- Brand: Bow & Stern
- Model: Abyss Automatic
- Case Diameter: 41.5mm
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel, gold PVD finish
- Water Resistance: 200m / 660ft
- Movement: Seiko NH35A automatic, 24 jewels
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Strap: NATO (additional bracelet option available)
- Price (at launch): Approx. AUD$578
Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Magma
Dramatic, loud and characteristically Ulysee Nardin, the new Skeleton X Magma is the definition of over the top. The 43mm wide Carbon Magma case absolutely screams presence. The angular lava red case is awe inspiring. It really does bridge the gap between high end fashion and luxury watchmaking. This is a watch that wants to be seen and heard. Low-key is not the Skeleton X Magma’s premise, and with that openworked X-shaped dial, you’re definitely going to be facing an uphill battle if you’re thinking of trying to fly under the radar while wearing it. Insanely cool.
- Brand: Ulysse Nardin
- Model: Skeleton X Magma
- Reference: 3713-260/MAGMA
- Case Diameter: 42mm
- Case Material: Layered carbon fibre with red marbled epoxy resin (Carbon Magma) — each case is unique
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Movement: UN-371, manual-winding in-house calibre; 21,600 vph; silicon balance wheel and gear train
- Power Reserve: Approx. 96 hours
- Strap: Black calfskin leather
- Price (at launch): USD$25,000
Raymond Weil Freelancer Evolution
Initially launched in 2007, Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection has come leaps and bounds. The Freelancer Evolution is the newest rendition of one of the brand’s most well-known watches. This time featuring a half-moon opening date window and a beautiful Clou de Paris galvanic coated centre dial, the Freelancer Evolution really steps it up a notch. Available in either a polished stainless-steel case with blue dial or a two-tone coloured case with black dial, the Freelancer Evolution ticks all the right boxes for me. Wearable, usable, soundly put together and featuring a jubilee-style bracelet, there isn’t much to complain about with the Freelancer Evolution. Hats off to you, Raymond Weil.
- Brand: Raymond Weil
- Model: Freelancer Evolution
- Reference: 2738-ST-50001 (steel/blue dial); 2738-STP-20001 (two-tone/black dial)
- Case Diameter: 42 mm
- Case Thickness: 10.7 mm
- Case Material: Polished stainless steel (blue dial ref); polished stainless steel with yellow gold PVD (two-tone ref)
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: Raymond Weil Cal. RW4250, self-winding mechanical
- Power Reserve: 38 hours
- Strap: Stainless steel jubilee-style bracelet with folding clasp and double push-piece security
- Price (at launch): USD$1,795
IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month
Featuring IWC’s in-house calibre 89801 and now made in a full titanium case, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month is more watch than you’re ever going to really need. Incorporating a full perpetual calendar along with a chronograph within its 45mm wide, 17.40mm thick titanium case, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month is perhaps the world’s greatest daily wearer. The dial is quite busy but considering there under 45mm to display so much information at the same time, I think IWC has done a wonderful job at creating something that is legible and that makes sense. Its heft isn’t going to sit well with a lot of people, but when you’re wearing a watch with such copious amounts of technical prowess, then you have to give the manufacturer some leeway in that respect. Regardless, IWC hit the nail right on its head with the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month.
- Brand: IWC Schaffhausen
- Model: Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month
- Reference: IW381802
- Case Diameter: 45mm
- Case Thickness: 17.4mm
- Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
- Water Resistance: 120m
- Movement: IWC Calibre 89801 — automatic, integrated flyback chronograph with perpetual calendar, 28,800 vph, 51 jewels, 18k red gold rotor
- Power Reserve: 68 hours
- Strap: 22mm black calfskin leather
- Price (at launch): EUR 41,500
Zenith Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon
Available in either a 44mm wide carbon case or a 44mm wide platinum case, the new Zenith Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon captures the quintessential appeal of the brand all in one product. Daring, adventurous and a little bit insane, the Zenith Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon is, above all else, a work of horological art. Featuring a fusée and chain mechanism and a tourbillon, the Zenith Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon beats at a high-rate frequency of 50Hz yet still boasts a power reserve of 50-hours. Technically, the Zenith Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon is faultless. Aesthetically, even more so. The skeletonisation of the dial enables full view of the innards of the watch, and I truly believe that Zenith are up there with the likes of Audemars Piguet, Roger Dubuis and Richard Mille in their open-worked finishing techniques. Just super.
Shop Zenith watches at Zenith.com
Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Lo Scienziato
Panerai continue to capture the hearts and the minds of all those that encounter it, and their latest piece seems to continue that trend. The Luminor Tourbillon GMT Lo Scienziato is, in one word, exquisite. From its open-worked movement and the tourbillon that rotates on an axis perpendicular to the balance wheel to the 3D-printed case, there’s ample technique here to satisfy virtually anyone with the faintest interest in watchmaking. The 3D-printed case is a work of art and is made with layers upon layers of titanium powder which is applied by direct metal laser sintering. So, there you have it, a case that more than matches the movement in both complexity and in execution. Well done, Panerai.
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of watches.
You’ll also like:
The Wind Up – Watch News #101
The Wind Up – Watch News #100
The Wind Up – Watch News #99
- Brand: Panerai
- Model: Luminor Tourbillon GMT Lo Scienziato
- Reference: PAM00768
- Case Diameter: 47mm
- Case Thickness: 17.66mm
- Case Material: Grade 5 titanium, 3D-printed via Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS); Carbotech bezel and crown lock
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Movement: Calibre P.2005/T — in-house hand-wound skeletonised, 30-second tourbillon rotating on axis perpendicular to balance wheel, GMT + 24-hour day/night indicator, power reserve indicator
- Power Reserve: 6 days (three spring barrels in series)
- Strap: Grey alligator leather with titanium folding buckle (Velcro strap also included)
- Price: Price (at launch) EUR 145,000
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