The Wind Up – Watch News #94

Another week has come and gone, and as we’re thrust into the middle of Autumn, it’s a great time to reflect on the happenings in the world of watches through the week with our regular instalment of The Wind Up. In this week’s round-up, we have some pretty special pieces from the likes of F. P. Journe, Panerai, a two-year-in-the-making-collaboration a contemporary artist from Audemars Piguet, and a whole bunch of other goodies. So, as always gents, kick your legs up and enjoy!

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F. P. Journe Octa Automatique Reserve

The atelier of F. P. Journe is enigmatic, but it’s also shroud in secrecy. It’s a manufacturer that requires you to somewhat “know” about the happenings of horology. I mean, the vast majority of people who are somewhat enthused by watches have absolutely no idea who F. P. Journe is. That’s one half of their appeal. The second is this: the Octa Automatique Reserve. F. P. Journe’s Octa Automatique Reserve is perhaps their most understated timepiece, but this one speaks volumes in terms of quality and workmanship. Clad in red-gold and featuring a rose-gold movement, the Octa Automatique Reserve is a beautiful marriage of sublime mechanics and art-deco-cross-funky aesthetics. Definitely one to march to the sound of his own drum, F. P. Journe’s personality is reflected through every single one of his watches, and the Octa Automatique Reserve is absolutely no different. Shop F.P. Journe watches at FPJ

Audemars Piguet x Fernando Mastrangelo

One of the holy trinity of horology has linked up with famed Brooklyn-based artist and designer, Fernando Mastrangelo, to create a sculptural exhibit evoking the Jura Mountains in Switzerland. This two-year long collaboration has resulted in some absolutely awe-inspiring works from the duo, where the designer Fernando Mastrangelo has used minerals extracted from the region that Audemars Piguet have called home since 1875 to create ultra-luxe and super contemporary pieces of furniture and artistic pieces. The unveiling took place within Art Basel in the Hong Kong’ Collector’s Lounge this year, and there are three Art Basel shows that Audemars Piguet x Fernando Mastrangelo will attend this year. Shop Audemars Piguet watches

Panerai Luminor Marina

Panerai have released two brand new references for their Luminor Marina collection, the PAM00977 with a 42mm case and the PAM00978 with a 44mm case. Both pieces feature a stainless-steel bracelet and a silver-coloured dial, with a blue small-seconds hand situated on the left-hand side of the dial. The case structure is quintessentially Panerai, with the patented crown system of course being the most recognisable feature, aside from the shape of the stainless-steel case. The 42mm version has an Australian retail cost of $11,900 while the larger 42mm variant will cost $12,000. Solid daily wearers. Shop Panerai watches

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00977 (42mm)

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: Luminor Marina
• Reference: PAM00977
• Case Diameter: 42mm
• Case Thickness: 13.20mm
• Case Material: AISI 316L stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Movement: Panerai in-house calibre P.9010, automatic, 28,800 vph
• Power Reserve: 72 hours (3 days)
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet, alternating brushed/polished links, double folding clasp
• Price (at launch): AUD$11,900

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00978 (44mm)

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: Luminor Marina
• Reference: PAM00978
• Case Diameter: 44mm
• Case Thickness: 15.65mm
• Case Material: AISI 316L stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 300m
• Movement: Panerai in-house calibre P.9010, automatic, 28,800 vph
• Power Reserve: 72 hours (3 days)
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet, alternating brushed/polished links, double folding clasp
• Price (at launch): AUD$12,000

Armin Strom Skeleton Pure Carbon

Partnering with Cyprus-based retailer Cases & Dials, Armin Strom have released a brand-new collection of 5 unique timepieces focusing on the use of the acclaimed material, carbon fibre. Carrying with it styling virtues not that dissimilar to something from Roger Dubuis, the Armin Strom Skeleton Pure Carbon comes with either a blue, a yellow, a red, an orange or a green colour palette. Each piece is powered by the in-house manually wound calibre ARM09-S Pure and is basically fully visible through the front and the backside of the watch. At 45,000CHF and only available through Case & Dials, it’s unlikely we’ll ever see one in the flesh. But we can definitely admire from afar. Shop Armin Strom watches at arminstrom.com

• Brand: Armin Strom
• Model: Skeleton Pure Carbon
• Case Diameter: 46.8mm
• Case Thickness: 13.2mm
• Case Material: Forged carbon fibre with sapphire crystal front and caseback
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Movement: Armin Strom Calibre ARM09-S, manual winding, in-house, 34 jewels, 18,000 vph
• Power Reserve: 8 days (twin mainspring barrels)
• Strap: Horn-back alligator with colour-matched stitching; stainless steel double-folding clasp (rubber and Velcro straps also included)
• Price (at launch): CHF 45,000 (limited edition of 5 pieces, no AUD RRP)

NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Ruthenium

Featuring a ruthenium dial and a super unique way of depicting the date, NOMOS Glashütte’s Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Ruthenium has received one hell of a makeover. Darker, a touch more masculine, and featuring some very impressive details, the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Ruthenium is everything that I love about NOMOS Glashütte all mashed up into one tangible product. I love the touches of red on the outer date indicator. The addition of yellow dial highlights offset the darkened look of the watch, while the even hour numerals and hour markers resonate will with the standard look of the Tangente Neomatik. The slim hands are wonderful, the lugs are thin, the bezel is basically non-existent, what’s not to enjoy? Shop the Nomos Tangente 181 at Ethos

• Brand: NOMOS Glashütte
• Model: Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Ruthenium
• Reference: 181
• Case Diameter: 40.5 mm
• Case Thickness: 7.9 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 50 m (5 ATM)
• Movement: NOMOS DUW 6101, in-house automatic with date, Glashütte three-quarter plate, 27 jewels
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Black Horween Shell Cordovan leather, hand-stitched
• Price: AUD$5,700 (Price at launch)

Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100

Touted as the most accurate wristwatch ever made, the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 from Citizen certainly looks the part. Plain, focused and lacking any sort of distractive nonsense, the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 is made for those of us who yearn for one-upping our fellow collecting friends. The Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 features a Quartz calibre with a beating frequency of, wait for it, 8,388,608Hz. Obviously, no mechanical movement would ever be able to handle this kind of lunacy, so the Eco-Drive Caliber 010 uses a quartz crystal which has been thermocompensated to handle these kinds of other-worldly pressures. Pricing is high, with the titanium model costing $7,400USD and the white gold piece costing more than just a pretty penny at $16,800USD. Like I said, this is going to be more of a show-off piece than anything else. But who cares, this is actually really cool! Shop Citizen watches If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of watches. VISIT HAULOGERIE HERE https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv2r86DnSs6/

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Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 — AQ6010-06A (18K White Gold)

• Brand: Citizen
• Model: Eco-Drive Caliber 0100
• Reference: AQ6010-06A
• Case Diameter: 37.5mm
• Case Thickness: 9.1mm
• Case Material: 18K white gold
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Movement: Cal. 0100, Eco-Drive light-powered quartz, ±1 second per year accuracy
• Power Reserve: 6 months (8 months in power-save mode)
• Strap: Crocodile leather with 18K white gold buckle
• Price (at launch): USD$16,800 (limited to 100 pieces)

Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 — AQ6021-51E (Super Titanium, black dial)

• Brand: Citizen
• Model: Eco-Drive Caliber 0100
• Reference: AQ6021-51E
• Case Diameter: 37.5mm
• Case Thickness: 9.1mm
• Case Material: Super Titanium (Duratect α coating)
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Movement: Cal. 0100, Eco-Drive light-powered quartz, ±1 second per year accuracy
• Power Reserve: 6 months (8 months in power-save mode)
• Strap: Super Titanium seven-row integrated bracelet
• Price (at launch): USD$7,400 (limited to 500 pieces)

Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 — AQ6020-53X (Super Titanium, mother-of-pearl dial)

• Brand: Citizen
• Model: Eco-Drive Caliber 0100
• Reference: AQ6020-53X
• Case Diameter: 37.5mm
• Case Thickness: 9.1mm
• Case Material: Super Titanium (Duratect α coating)
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Movement: Cal. 0100, Eco-Drive light-powered quartz, ±1 second per year accuracy
• Power Reserve: 6 months (8 months in power-save mode)
• Strap: Super Titanium seven-row integrated bracelet
• Price (at launch): USD$7,400 (limited to 200 pieces)