The Wind Up – Watch News #92

The next weekly round-up of all things watch related is up, and in this week’s Wind Up instalment we have some absolute wonders, mainly from the past Baselworld 2019 event. We’ve got a handful of goodies from NOMOS Glashütte, an oil-filled mechanical piece from Ressence as well as a whole bunch of other awesome pieces. Sit back, relax and enjoy the next Wind Up article!

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The Wind Up – Watch News #91

NOMOS Glashütte New Sport Additions

From one of our favourite Bauhaus-cross-minimalist watchmakers comes a handful of brand-new sporty additions. From left to right we have the Club Sport neomatik 42 date black, the Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date, and finally, the Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date marine black. Each piece now has a sport bracelet specifically developed for it which blends perfectly with the casual sporty vibe each model possesses. I particularly like the Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date in marine black. The contrast of colours against what is basically a blank canvas is really interesting, and its very angular case and lug structure is super appealing, too. Gets my nod of approval.

Club Sport neomatik 42 date black

• Brand: NOMOS Glashütte
• Model: Club Sport neomatik 42 date black
• Reference: 781
• Case Diameter: 42 mm
• Case Thickness: 10.2 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 300 m (30 atm)
• Movement: NOMOS DUW 6101, automatic (in-house)
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel sport bracelet (Club Sport bracelet), 20 mm lug width
• Price: AUD$7,670

Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date

• Brand: NOMOS Glashütte
• Model: Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date
• Reference: 580
• Case Diameter: 42 mm
• Case Thickness: 10.9 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 300 m (30 atm)
• Movement: NOMOS DUW 6101, automatic (in-house)
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel sport bracelet, 20 mm lug width
• Price: AUD$8,940

Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date marine black

• Brand: NOMOS Glashütte
• Model: Tangente Sport neomatik 42 date marine black
• Reference: 581
• Case Diameter: 42 mm
• Case Thickness: 10.9 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 300 m (30 atm)
• Movement: NOMOS DUW 6101, automatic (in-house)
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp, 20 mm lug width
• Price (at launch): Approx. EUR 3,980

Shop NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik

Ressence Type 5N

From the watchmaker who lay claim to infamy with creating and mass producing the world’s first oil-filled mechanical timepiece comes the Type 5N, a timepiece whose DNA resonates with the brand’s avant-garde, against-the-grain nature. This time with a deep night blue dial, the Type 5N is an exceptionally beautiful timepiece whose aesthetic could very easily be mistaken for that of a smartwatch. The concept is intriguing, the process is confusing at best, but the execution is absolutely exceptional. One of, if not the most interesting take on portraying the passing of time. Pure and utter brilliance.

• Brand: Ressence
• Model: Type 5N (Night Blue)
• Reference: T51X-NXX1-RNA
• Case Diameter: 46mm
• Case Thickness: 15.5mm
• Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
• Water Resistance: 100m (ISO 6425)
• Movement: ROCS 5 (Ressence Orbital Convex System), automatic; based on customised ETA 2824-2; 41 jewels; 28,800 vph; crown-free — wound and set via rotating caseback
• Power Reserve: 36 hours
• Strap: Blue Cordovan leather (24/22mm) and blue rubber (24/24mm), titanium ardillon buckle
• Price (at launch): €40,850

TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph

Featuring a carbon-composite high-tech hairspring, TAG Heuer’s Autavia Isograph is a brand-new collection building on the fundamentals of a typical three-handed watch (plus a date). TAG Heuer has introduced 7 different references in 2 different metals, bronze and stainless-steel within their newest collection. So, it’s safe to say that there are certainly options aplenty here. Variety is enormous, appeal is vas, and from at the very least an innovation stand-point, the Autavia Isograph stands head and shoulders above a lot of the other offerings from Baselworld 2019.

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Autavia Isograph
• Reference: WBE5110, WBE5111, WBE5112 (stainless steel, 5 variants); WBE5190, WBE5191 (bronze, 2 variants)
• Case Diameter: 42 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel (5 refs); bronze case with stainless steel caseback (2 refs)
• Water Resistance: 100 m (10 bar)
• Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Isograph — automatic, COSC chronometer, 28,800 vph (4 Hz), carbon-composite Isograph hairspring
• Power Reserve: 38 hours
• Strap: Calfskin leather (brown, dark brown, or khaki); or stainless steel bracelet with included NATO strap — depending on reference
• Price (at launch): Approx. CHF 3,400 (steel/leather) – CHF 4,200 (bronze)

Shop the Tag Heuer Autavia at Tag Heuer

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

Another winner from Baselworld 2019 is the Chronomètre FB 1L from Ferdinand Berthoud. Building on the very successful FB1 platform, Ferdinand Berthoud has introduced a moon phase and age indicator to this already highly complex timepiece. This next step on the FB 1’s evolution is one that combines the romanticism often associated with the moon to the surreal complexity that surrounds its accurate tracking. Portraying this kind of information in a mechanical setting is absurdly complicated, so that in itself should get your juices flowing.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L.1 (white gold / black ceramic)

• Brand: Ferdinand Berthoud
• Model: Chronomètre FB 1L.1
• Reference: FB 1L.1
• Case Diameter: 44mm
• Case Thickness: 13.95mm
• Case Material: 18-carat polished white gold case middle and crown; black ceramic lugs
• Water Resistance: 30m (3 ATM)
• Movement: Ferdinand Berthoud Calibre FB-T.FC.L; in-house hand-wound; one-minute tourbillon with fusée-and-chain constant force; moon phase and age indicator
• Power Reserve: 53 hours
• Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather; 18-carat white gold double-blade folding clasp
• Price (at launch): CHF 265,000 (limited to 10 pieces)

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L.4 (ceramized titanium / white gold)

• Brand: Ferdinand Berthoud
• Model: Chronomètre FB 1L.4
• Reference: FB 1L.4
• Case Diameter: 44mm
• Case Thickness: 13.95mm
• Case Material: Sandblasted 18-carat white gold case middle; dark grey ceramized titanium lugs and side elements
• Water Resistance: 30m (3 ATM)
• Movement: Ferdinand Berthoud Calibre FB-T.FC.L; in-house hand-wound; one-minute tourbillon with fusée-and-chain constant force; moon phase and age indicator
• Power Reserve: 53 hours
• Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather; titanium double-blade folding clasp
• Price (at launch): CHF 250,000 (limited to 10 pieces)

Visit Ferdinand Berthoud official site

Seiko Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033

Pricing aside (close to $7,000AUD for a Seiko…), the new SLA033 is a homage re-creation of one of the brand’s most popular timepieces, the 1970s deep diving affectionally named “Turtle”. Seiko’s SLA033 is going to appeal to a lot of the fan-boys out there, but outside of that very tight-knit circle I feel that the new Turtle will have a bit more mass appeal than expected. Robust, rugged and certainly embodying the aesthetic tenets of diver’s watches from the 1970s, the SLA033 is going to garner a lot of affection, especially in today’s market.

• Brand: Seiko
• Model: Prospex 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition
• Reference: SLA033J1
• Case Diameter: 45.0 mm
• Case Thickness: 13.0 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel with super-hard coating
• Water Resistance: 200 m
• Movement: Calibre 8L35, in-house automatic with manual wind, 28,800 vph
• Power Reserve: Approx. 50 hours
• Strap: High-strength silicone with waffle pattern
• Price (at launch): Approx. AUD$7,000

Shop Seiko watches

Zenith Defy Inventor

Last but certainly not least is Zenith’s latest innovation from the very forward-thinking Defy Lab. Here is the Inventor, a timepiece whose oscillator frequency is a whopping 15Hz, or 108,000 vibrations per hour. Just to give you an idea as to how quick that actually is, a normal watch has a beating frequency of 3Hz. So yep, that’s five times the typical beating frequency. Aside from its highly technical and complex mechanical nature, the Inventor is still very much a Zenith timepiece, clearly evident through its distinct aesthetic. This is a wonderful watch that is a clear indication of Zenith’s abilities in a modern, ever-changing market.

Shop Zenith watches

If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of watches.

VISIT HAULOGERIE HERE

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• Brand: Zenith
• Model: Defy Inventor
• Reference: 95.9001.9100/78.R584
• Case Diameter: 44mm
• Case Thickness: 14.5mm
• Case Material: Brushed titanium; Aeronith (aluminium composite) bezel
• Water Resistance: 50m (5 ATM)
• Movement: Zenith Calibre 9100 (ZO 9100), self-winding, monolithic silicon compliant oscillator at 18Hz / 129,600 vph, 148 components, 18 jewels
• Power Reserve: Approx. 50 hours
• Strap: Black rubber with midnight blue alligator leather inserts; titanium double-folding clasp
• Price: AUD$26,200 (at launch)