The Elegant Art of Metamorphosis: Cartier’s Stunning New Collections Revealed

Cartier has long harnessed the power of metal and stone to create unparalleled beauty, and at Watches and Wonders 2025, the 178-year-old maison has truly outdone itself. This year’s releases centre around the theme of metamorphosis, showcasing the role it plays in Cartier’s pursuit of the extraordinary, from remarkable evolutions of the iconic Tank to sculptural pieces as luxurious as they are innovative. 

Thanks to its ability to wield a singularly potent alchemy, Cartier has proved itself time and again uniquely gifted when it comes to playing with materials. Conjuring forms that evoke emotion like no other, the maison’s latest efforts prove once again why it is an outlier in the field of watches and jewellery. 

As the firm’s President and CEO, Louis Ferla, explains, these achievements are only possible thanks to the extreme skill possessed by Cartier’s artisans, who devote themselves to pushing the very limits of creativity: “Magic is at the heart of Cartier’s watchmaking vision. By drawing on the singular expertise of the maison’s craftsmen, who transform stones and metal into precious objects, Cartier creates exceptional watches. A watchmaker of shapes, Cartier has reimagined its rich heritage of signature creations and reinterpreted its stylistic codes with ever greater creativity and virtuosity.” 

With that, let’s take a closer look at Cartier’s new pieces, each a jaw-dropping celebration of metamorphosis.

Tank Louis Cartier

The Tank belongs in the uppermost tier of horology’s hierarchy. Now, Cartier has launched a pair of distinct evolutions of this dress watch cornerstone, the first coming in the form of two new Tank Louis Cartier references. 

Ever since it launched in 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier has been a spellbinding successor to the original Tank Normale. The result of a reworking by Louis Cartier five years after the original’s launch, this evolution saw the now-iconic rectangular shape embraced via an elongation of the case, refinement of its vertical sidebars, and a softening of the watch’s angles. 

This year, Cartier is launching its most advanced and refined incarnation yet, boasting a larger scale and a next-generation mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding in the form of the 1899 MC. Available in both rose gold and yellow gold, these references continue the Tank’s metamorphosis, ensuring our obsession with this iconic timepiece continues unabated. 

• Case: Yellow gold
• Strap: Semi-matte grey alligator leather 
• Movement: Automatic 1899 MC
• Dimensions: 38.1 x 27.75 mm
• Thickness: 8.18 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case: Rose gold
• Strap: Semi-matte brown alligator leather 
• Movement: Automatic 1899 MC
• Dimensions: 38.1 x 27.75 mm
• Thickness: 8.18 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Tank à Guichets

Cartier’s second interpretation of the Tank for Watches and Wonders 2025 comes in the form of new additions to the Cartier Privé collection. Renowned for showcasing exquisite limited-edition creations, this year’s offering consists of four references that reimagine Cartier’s Tank à Guichets.

Now, when I tell you the images of these watches turned heads in the Man of Many office, I mean at break-neck speed. These are references that true watch enthusiasts are sure to adore. Boasting a specially developed calibre—the 9755 MC hand-wound movement with jumping hours and dragging minutes—three of the four pieces boast a design Cartier launched in 1928, with the hour aperture at 12 o’clock, the minute aperture at 6 o’clock, and the winding crown also positioned at 12 o’clock. With central faces of brushed gold or platinum, and satin-finished cases that contrast with their polished horizontal brancards, these are timepieces that you’ll find yourself pondering for a long time to come.

One final refence pushes the envelope further still, morphing the Tank à Guichets in a thrilling way. A second platinum model limited to 200 pieces, it places the two apertures at an angle, a compelling design choice made in tribute to the creativity and innovation of timepieces from the 1930s. 

• Case: Platinum
• Display: Golden-finish discs with burgundy, Arabic numerals, and minute track
• Positioning: Hour aperture at 12 o’clock, minute aperture at 6 o’clock
• Strap: Burgundy alligator leather 
• Movement: Manual 9755 MC
• Dimensions: 37.6 x 24.8 mm
• Thickness: 6 mm
• Water-resistance: N/A

• Case: Rose gold
• Display: Golden-finish discs with dark grey, arabic numerals, and minute track
• Positioning: Hour aperture at 12 o’clock, minute aperture at 6 o’clock
• Strap: Dark grey alligator leather
• Movement: Manual 9755 MC
• Dimensions: 37.6 x 24.8 mm
• Thickness: 6 mm
• Water-resistance: N/A

• Case: Yellow gold
• Display: Golden-finish discs with green, arabic numerals, and minute track
• Positioning: Hour aperture at 12 o’clock, minute aperture at 6 o’clock
• Strap: Green alligator leather
• Movement: Manual 9755 MC
• Dimensions: 37.6 x 24.8 mm
• Thickness: 6 mm
• Water-resistance: N/A

• Case: Platinum
• Display: Golden-finish discs with burgundy, arabic numerals, and minute track
• Positioning: Hour aperture at 10 o’clock, minute aperture at 4 o’clock
• Strap: Black alligator leather
• Movement: Manual 9755 MC
• Dimensions: 37.6 x 24.8 mm
• Thickness: 6 mm
• Water-resistance: N/A
• Limited edition: 200 numbered pieces

The Tressage Watch

An example of Cartier’s ability to blend the worlds of horology and sculpture, the Tressage watch sees the Maison’s alchemic mastery at play, harnessing the power of gold, diamonds, and other precious stones to create a series of references that are wonderfully flamboyant and undeniably Cartier. 

Following in the footsteps of Cartier’s Maillon, Coussin and Reflection watches, each piece boasts a dynamic interplay of textures and colours, using either yellow or white gold in the pursuit of something remarkable. 

From one reference’s twin twists of gold and diamonds to another’s entirely gold offering contrasting with its black dial and leather stap, each timepiece is an exercise in lavish luxury. A third reference is the very picture of beauty and opulence, thanks to its twists decorated entirely with diamonds, while the collection’s fourth introduces sapphires into the mix, complementing its stunning navy blue calfskin strap.

• Case and buckle: Yellow gold, white gold, set with 466 brilliant-cut diamonds (6.3 ct)
• Dial: White gold set with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6 ct)
• Strap: Shiny beige calfskin / Soft black calfskin
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 56.2 x 25.7 mm
• Thickness: 11.5 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and buckle: Yellow gold
• Dial: Black laquer
• Strap: Shiny black calfskin / Soft black calfskin
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 56.2 x 25.7 mm
• Thickness: 11.5 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and buckle: White gold, set with 916 brilliant-cut diamonds (12.2 ct)
• Dial: White gold set with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6 ct)
• Strap: Soft navy blue calfskin / Shiny black calfskin
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 56.2 x 25.7 mm
• Thickness: 11.5 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and buckle: White gold, set with 570 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.7 ct) and 330 sapphires (5.9 ct)
• Dial: White gold set with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.6 ct)
• Strap: Shiny navy blue calfskin / Soft navy blue calfskin
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 56.2 x 25.7 mm
• Thickness: 11.5 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Panthère Jewellery Watch

Serving as a watch and a stunning piece of jewellery, the two references in this collection combine both of Cartier’s great disciplines to craft something truly special. Nowhere else will you find a finer example of the skill of artisans referenced in our opening. 

For proof of this, you need simply glance at either of these ‘Toi & Moi’ bracelets, featuring a beautifully sculpted three-dimensional panther posed in mid-pounce on one end and a delicate watch dial on the other. We challenge you to take your eyes off the big cat with its slender muscles and black spots, immaculate eyes of tsavorite or emerald, onyx nose details, and delicate, meticulously crafted pads under each paw. 

With one reference crafted using yellow gold and a second using white, you won’t find a more characterful, fascinating timepiece. The panther here embodies the maison’s endless ability to redesign and metamorphose its icons.

• Bracelet: Yellow gold set with 23 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.78 ct)
• Panther: Tsavorite eyes, onyx nose, black lacquer spots
• Movement: Quartz
• Size: Available in 150/160/170 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Bracelet: White gold set with 1103 brilliant-cut diamonds (11.90 ct)
• Panther: Emerald eyes, onyx nose and spots
• Movement: Quartz
• Size: Available in 150/160/170 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Panthère de Cartier Watch

A masterpiece among masterpieces, Cartier’s Panthère watch is reimagined here in a number of ways, with one reference in particular showcasing Cartier’s unparalleled ambition. 

Boasting an abstract coat somewhere between a tiger and a zebra, this watch’s aesthetic has to be seen to be believed. Featuring motifs in black and golden-grown lacquer, pavé-set diamonds, and orange and yellow spessartites, the overall effect is one of astonishment. 

From the 145 brilliant-cut diamonds of the dial setting to the immense craftsmanship of the bracelet—itself adorned with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds and 86 spessartites—each element of the Panthère watch reveals itself to be more beautiful and immaculate than the one before. As such, it should come as little surprise that this potent standard-bearer for the wider Panthère de Cartier collection took over 110 hours to make. An extraordinary achievement.

• Case and bracelet: Rose gold, set with 398 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.36 ct), spessartites, and two different shades of lacquers: black and golden-brown
• Dial: Rose gold, set with 145 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.38 ct) and black lacquer, steel sword-shaped hands with a rose golden finish
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 36.5 x 26.7 mm
• Thickness: 6.8 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and bracelet: Yellow gold, semi-paved case and bracelet set with 187 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.49 ct)
• Dial: Silver, blued-steel sword-shaped hands
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 36.5 x 26.7 mm
• Thickness: 6.8 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and bracelet: Yellow gold, semi-paved case and bracelet set with 179 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.56 ct)
• Dial: Silver, blued-steel sword-shaped hands
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 30.3 x 22 mm
• Thickness: 6.05 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and bracelet: Rose gold, semi-paved case and bracelet set with 179 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.56 ct)
• Dial: Silver, blued-steel sword-shaped hands
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 30.3 x 22 mm
• Thickness: 6.05 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

• Case and bracelet: Rose gold, semi-paved case and bracelet set with 175 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.07 ct)
• Dial: Silver, blued-steel sword-shaped hands
• Movement: Quartz
• Dimensions: 25 x 20 mm
• Thickness: 6 mm
• Water-resistance: Up to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)