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We’ve wrapped up our first day at Watches and Wonders 2026 in Geneva. While Rolex usually dominates the conversation, 2026’s been a year where the “indies” and the heavy hitters like Audemars Piguet and Tudor are putting up a strong fight for their share of the spotlight. So far, we’ve worn everything from blue ceramic perpetual calendars to reimagined racing icons, and the level of technical artistry on display is staggering.
While some brands continue to just do what they do best (and you have to love them for it), others are leaning into advanced materials and high-complication movements. Whether we’re talking Tudor’s continued push for METAS dominance, TAG Heuer’s elevation of the Monaco to a place beyond racing, or Ressence’s minimalist approach to “organic” watchmaking with the introduction of their first in-house movement, there’s plenty to get excited about.
Here are our picks for the best watches revealed at Watches and Wonders 2026 so far.
Highlights from Watches and Wonders 2026
These are our favourite releases of the show (so far):
- Best overall release: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
- Most innovative release: Ressence Type 11 Pine
- Most surprising release: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
- Biggest baller release: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Blue Ceramic
Now we’ve had a look at the key highlights, let’s check out the best so far.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Blue Ceramic
It’s funny, I didn’t think AP could top their previous ceramic work, but seeing the full Blue Ceramic in the flesh completely changed my mind. Yes, it’s a near-$1-million watch back home in Australia, but here in Geneva, on my wrist, I don’t care. It’s the type of watch that you could wear to McDonald’s to order a frozen Coke on a balmy Saturday night, and no one would think the wiser. However, wear it amongst a group of people who even half know what they’re looking at, and you’re taken very, very seriously. Here, the entire case and every single link of the integrated bracelet are crafted from blue zirconium oxide.
To me, the “Grande Tapisserie” dial, which matches the case exactly, creates a seamless, monochromatic vibe that makes the perpetual calendar complications pop. It’s ultra-thin, ultra-blue, and easily my favourite Royal Oak of the show.
- Reference Number: 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01
- Case Size: 41 mm
- Dial: Blue “Grande Tapisserie”
- Bezel: Blue Ceramic
- Bracelet: Blue Ceramic with AP folding clasp
- Movement: Calibre 5134 self-winding
- Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours
- Notable Design Detail: Fully monochromatic blue aesthetic in brushed and polished ceramic
Ressence Type 11 Pine
Price: CHF 23,000
Ressence has always had a singular outlook in the watch industry. One of optimism, pragmatism, and a willingness to ask why. It’s an attitude we need now more than ever, so it’s encouraging to see the boutique brand’s latest development is the introduction of its first in-house movement: the Werk RW-01. Ressence is launching this project via the new Type 11 range, which keeps the brand’s signature ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) centre stage, while offering a smaller, more subtle take on its unmistakable design. Of the shades on display at the booth, I have to go with the pine option. Not only did it match my jacket, but it also left me with a surprising sense of calm. What a rare treat.
- Model: Type 11 Pine
- Case Size: 41 mm (Grade 5 Titanium)
- Dial: Pine Green matte convex dial
- Movement: Patented ROCS 11.1 module driven by in-house Werk RW-01
- Power Reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
Price: CHF 6,300
If you asked me which watch I’d actually walk out and buy today, it’s this one. Tudor is officially playing in the big leagues with the new Black Bay Ceramic (Ref. M7941A1ACNU-0001). I’ve been waiting for them to bring this clean, black aesthetic to the 41mm Master Chronometer platform, but I didn’t expect them to do it at such a sharp price point. The other big news here is the METAS certification, making it a “Master Chronometer” that’s anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss and accurate to 0/+5 seconds. I’m particularly obsessed with how it wears on the all-ceramic bracelet. Combined with the “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp, it’s easily the most comfortable and technically superior diver in its price bracket.
- Reference Number: M7941A1ACNU-0001
- Case Size: 41 mm
- Dial: Black, sunray satin-finished
- Bezel: Unidirectional rotatable in black-PVD steel with ceramic insert
- Bracelet: Full matte black ceramic three-link bracelet
- Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U (METAS certified)
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Price: CHF 56,300
This was the biggest surprise of my trip so far. I expected to love the new Royal Oak, but AP dropped an entirely new design language with the Neo Frame Jumping Hour a few weeks ago, and getting it on my wrist only elevated my appreciation for a stunning piece. It feels like a love letter to 1930s elegance with the 18-carat pink gold case that frames a sapphire dial that makes the entire movement look like it’s floating in mid-air. I love the minimalist approach of only a jumping hour aperture at 12 and a minute disc, which lets you really appreciate the architectural lugs and the depth of the Calibre 7122. It’s a brave, historic move away from the octagonal bezel, and I think it’s exactly the kind of risk AP should take.
- Reference Number: 15245OR.OO.A206VE.01
- Case Size: 31 mm x 42 mm
- Dial: Sapphire dial with pink gold apertures
- Bezel: 18-carat pink gold
- Bracelet: Grey calfskin leather with pink gold pin buckle
- Movement: Calibre 7122 self-winding
- Power Reserve: Approximately 52 hours
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
Price: CHF 23,000
This is the “technical beast” I mentioned earlier. The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph is a total reimagining of the chronograph mechanism, where the brand has spent five years developing the Calibre TH80-00 to replace traditional levers and springs with flexible “bistable” components. Seeing these components in action through the open-worked dial is unreal. It also features the TH-Carbonspring oscillator, which beats at 5 Hz with 1/10-second precision. With its signature blue-accented titanium case, it’s the right amount of radical and a step forward for the silhouette to catch my eye this year.
- Reference Number: CEW5181.FT8123
- Case Size: 40 mm
- Dial: Open-worked with blue accents and visible gear train
- Bezel: Fixed Grade 5 Titanium
- Bracelet: Embossed blue rubber strap
- Movement: Calibre TH80-00 (Bistable compliant mechanism)
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph with Green Sunray Dial
Price: CHF 8,800
Look, I love a green dial watch. However, for those who find the Evergraph that Ben chose above a bit too aggressive, this 39 mm titanium version is the refined daily driver alternative. This specific reference (CDW2180.FC8360) introduces a stunning sunray-brushed green dial that plays beautifully with the light, contrasted by black opaline counters. It’s housed in a Grade 5 titanium case that’s been redesigned for better ergonomics and is slightly thinner than previous generations (making all the difference on my smaller wrists). It’s a perfect bridge between heritage design and modern luxury, especially on the perforated calfskin strap.
- Reference Number: CDW2180.FC8360
- Case Size: 39 mm (Grade 5 Titanium)
- Dial: Green sunray-brushed with black counters
- Bracelet: Black perforated calfskin leather
- Movement: Calibre TH20-11 Manufacture (80-hour reserve)
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
Man of Many’s ‘On-Wrist’ Gallery for Watches & Wonders 2026
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