Big Thrills Under A Big Sky: Discovering Central Colorado’s Summer Playground

At Colorado’s centre lies a summer playground like no other. Pairing a treasure trove of adventurers’ delights with a thriving arts offering of music, literature, and theatre, it’s the kind of destination with something for everyone. Plus, it’s the ultimate opportunity to score bragging rights with your friends as you move from rugged thrill-seeking to high-minded culture within a single action-packed day.

Welcome to the second of three road diaries exploring Colorado’s adrenaline-fuelled adventures, stunning natural landscapes, and rich cultural offerings, with Man of Many as your guide. In this instalment, we’re starting in iconic Aspen and winding our way to the highest incorporated city in North America, Leadville.

Along the way, we’ll discover Gold Medal fishing waters, vibrant downtowns, thrilling mountain bike trails, and star-filled skies guaranteed to blow your mind. Let’s go!

If you’re already sold on exploring Central Colorado’s warm-weather wonderland, make sure to visit Intrepid via the link below to book your next holiday.

Aspen

There’s nowhere in the world quite like Aspen. Located in the heart of the White River National Forest, it’s surrounded by the peaks of the Elk Mountains and has a well-earned reputation as one of the greatest ski destinations in the world, thanks to the four ski mountains accessed via one lift ticket, and just as importantly, for its non-stop apres ski action. However, even after the snow has thawed, Aspen continues to offer so much more.

Our journey begins here, and it doesn’t take long to discover that adventure is a year-round pursuit in this alpine oasis. In fact, ask any local, and most will tell you that while winter’s what got them here in the first place, they stayed here because of the summers. With a wide variety of activities to choose from, including hiking, biking, rock climbing, fishing, horseback riding, paragliding, and more, guests are very much spoiled for choice.

Plus, while Aspen is what makes this area world-renowned, the surrounding countryside, with its quaint villages like Woody Creek and Snowmass, is every bit as stunning. They’re quirky, too. Woody Creek, for instance, was the long-time home to the famous gonzo writer, Hunter S Thompson, and must be seen while you’re in the area.

Departing from our downtown accommodation at Limelight Aspen, our first activity sees us drive 45 minutes north-west to the beautiful Roaring Fork Valley. There, we drop by the Aspen Outfitting Company, whose kind staff members hook us up with an expert tour guide, along with premium rods, hand-picked flies, and Simms waders and boots. Now we’re ready for some world-class fly fishing.

With our experience in this style of fishing being somewhat limited, we’ve opted for a half-day guided outing. On the 15-minute drive to our fishing spot, our friendly guide regales us with some local history and a few fly fishing fundamentals.

Once we arrive at our Gold Medal fishing spot (a designation by Colorado Parks and Wildlife for top-tier trout fisheries that consistently produce a high density of large fish), we quickly wade out into the water. It’s wonderfully cool, while the air is warmed by the golden sun. With a few false starts, it’s not long before we feel our way into the rhythm of it all. For the most part, fly fishing is an immensely soothing activity, punctuated with bursts of action each time a trout grabs hold of a fly. Having had quite a few laughs and caught a surprising haul of fish, we drop our gear back at Aspen Outfitting Company and return to town.

Time being a precious resource, thanks to all that Aspen has to offer, we waste none of it, choosing to follow our fly-fishing expedition with an afternoon e-biking to The Maroon Bells, North America’s most photographed mountains. Happily, the route to get to these natural landmarks is also one of Colorado’s most iconic rides. Across a 26 km round trip from the Aspen Highlands to Maroon Lake and back, we climb almost 400 metres, passing through one picturesque grove after another and taking in the imposing Pyramid Peak along the way. As we finally round the bend to Maroon Lake and come face to face with the Maroon Bells, it’s instantly clear why these twin peaks, each reaching over 4,200 metres, have captured the imagination of so many photographers, professional and amateur alike. They’re a stunning sight to behold.

As the evening closes in, we head out to take in a sight of an entirely different kind. Being a tourist magnet, you won’t be surprised to hear that Aspen sees a multitude of internationally renowned musical acts pass through every year. On our night there, we’re fortunate enough to secure tickets to see Band of Horses at Belly Up, Aspen’s premier music venue. The band plays a mesmerising set that has the whole room in the palm of their hand. Showcasing a harder edge live than they do on record, the band’s performance leaves us with a satisfying ringing in our ears as we shuffle out of the venue.

The next morning, feeling a little worse for wear in the best way, we down coffees paired with a selection of doughnuts and head to the Aspen Art Museum for some much-needed serenity. Once housed in an old converted hydroelectric plant, these days the art museum is one of the most striking buildings in town: there are four levels of exhibition space across 3000 m2, which means there’s a lot of space for a wide range of contemporary works from local and national artists.

From enormous painted canvases to sculptures and audio-visual works, the whole place feels imbued with Aspen’s adventurous spirit. Drawing inspiration from the region’s alpine landscape and history of experimentation, it’s an offering that you wouldn’t find anywhere else, and that’s the wonder of this place: there’s nowhere like Aspen.

With the ringing in our ears from Band of Horses finally fading, we spend the rest of the day strolling between museums and galleries, while replenishing ourselves with bites and drinks as we go. From Aspen Art Museum, we make our way to Aspen Grove Fine Arts, Raven Gallery, Royal Street Fine Art, and finally arrive at Wheeler/Stallard Museum. It’s a low-key but welcome change of pace.

However, it can’t last. The next day, we’re up early for a final taste of adventure before we say goodbye to beautiful Aspen. The local paragliding school—appropriately named Aspen Paragliding—offers the kind of birds-eye view we can’t pass up. Booking a tandem flight, we secure an 8:15 AM take-off, which consists of a two-hour round-trip, including the drive up the mountain. Having strapped in with our instructors, there’s no backing out as we launch into the air more than 900 m above our designated landing spot. In-air time lasts around 15 minutes, which is more than long enough to take in the mind-blowing views from that altitude. It’s an invigorating ride, even for those who aren’t afraid of heights.

Glenwood Springs

Departing Aspen, our next destination lies an hour’s drive down valley, at the point where the Colorado and Roaring Fork rivers meet. Known as Colorado’s “Land of Water”, Glenwood Springs is a haven of aquatic activities, featuring more Gold Medal fishing, rafting, kayaking, and some of America’s most iconic hot springs (including the world’s largest mineral hot springs pool). Of course, the region would be disowned by Coloradans if it didn’t also have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to biking and hiking trails. Do that first, then soak those muscles.

Throwing ourselves into the fun, we head directly from Glenwood Springs’ Colorado Hotel to Whitewater Rafting LLC in order to experience the Colorado River first-hand. We’ve booked a half-day tour, which lasts around three hours. Starting around 14 km upriver, our trip starts in thrilling fashion, as we navigate a series of class III and IV rapids that include The Wall, Tombstone, Maneater, Pinball, and more. Before too long, the water starts to mellow, and our guide explains the history of Glenwood Canyon and the Colorado River. Further along, natural hot springs flow right into the river, and our group stops for a dip. The water is beautiful. Before long, we’ve floated back into town, and it’s time for fun of a different kind.

Next on the agenda is Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park, America’s one and only mountain-top theme park. While there are plenty of family-friendly activities on offer at the park, you know we’re here for the thrills, of which there are plenty. Highlights include the Giant Canyon Swing, which launches you nearly vertical at 80 km/h over an almost-400 m cliff edge above the Colorado River; the Defiance Roller Coaster, which delivers a record-breaking 102.3 degree freefall in just 56 seconds; and the Cliffhanger Coaster, which is North America’s highest roller coaster at 2,182 m! Each offers the kind of It’s heart-in-mouth experience we can’t help but love, and we spend the afternoon telling ourselves, “Just one more ride.”

Getting the pulse racing is hard work, so we wrap our day with a leisurely stop at Iron Mountain Hot Springs. Located along the banks of the Colorado River, this idyllic spot offers more than 32 soaking experiences, including an adults-only area with 11 globally inspired pools. Among their number are Dead Sea- and Blue Lagoon-inspired pools with waterfalls, as well as a cold plunge pool. It’s the perfect way to end our first of two days in Glenwood Springs.

Waking feeling well-rested, we’re determined to make the most of our final day here, so we decide to sample the area’s famous mountain biking trails. Hiring a couple of two-wheeled steeds, we hit the famous Grandstaff Trail. This medium-to-advanced, 11 km ride on nearby Red Mountain offers an exhilarating combination of challenging, steep, and fast riding, all set against the most spectacular views of the Glenwood Springs Valley. There are plenty of riding options throughout the area, so beginners and those looking for something a little more relaxed also have a wealth of options at hand, but for us, this ride is an ideal way to spend our last morning in this slice of alpine heaven.

Crested Butte

Having returned our bikes, we’re soon back in the car and bound for our next destination at the north end of the Gunnison Valley. Crested Butte boasts more than 2 million acres of public lands and, as you can probably imagine, it’s not short of outdoor adventures and exploration opportunities. This has to be America’s most underrated town. Here, coal mining history from the 1880s mixes with 1960s and ‘70s hippy culture (and its arty/indie legacy) in the prettiest historical town you’ll see anywhere. Seriously, it’s that stunning. We could live here.

But it’s not all about the gorgeous streetscape, though you could walk these streets for weeks. A glance around suggests this might be a great opportunity for getting off the beaten path. To do so, we drop our bags at the Historic Crested Butte Mule Barn, which offers far more luxurious accommodations than the name makes it sound, and swing by to see the folks at Eleven Scarp Ridge Lodge. They offer a range of tailor-made adventures across Crested Butte, and we sign up for a guided mountain-biking tour, and we’re very glad we did. Navigating through the Crested Butte’s superb ups and downs is relaxing and invigorating in equal measure. Considered by many to be the “birthplace of mountain biking”, this is the best place we’ve found for fun on two wheels.

Having established the lay of the land, the next box to be ticked is a walk through Crested Butte’s colourful downtown. Consisting of streets lined with brightly painted historical buildings, it offers a charming blend of restaurants, bars, shops, and galleries. We start by dropping in to Montanya Distiller’s Tasting Room for a cheeky rum tasting, opting for a flight of five rum varieties, paired with a bijou board of black-pepper salami, pickled onions, roasted nuts, and some other tasty selections. Our recommendation is to try their hot buttered rum, the Hottanya. It’s best in winter as an apres ski warmer, but heck, it’s still good in July.

From the Tasting Room, we head left and wander up towards the Paragon Art Gallery. There, we quietly peruse a diverse range of works curated according to the gallery’s policy of exhibiting 14 local artists and a pair of rotating guest artists from further afield. Crested Butte has long been considered one of Colorado’s best mountain art towns, even earning itself a worthy reputation up against the likes of big-hitter, Aspen.

Finally, we choose to end our night at The Secret Stash. Locals swear it offers Colorado’s best pizza, and we’re not about to argue. If you get the chance, try The Notorious F.I.G., which won the World Champion Pizza Challenge.

The following morning, we head out early for a day exploring Crested Butte‘s bike trails, but first, a visit to Big Al’s Bicycle Heaven. Offering some heavy-duty bike options, including carbon models with dual suspension, Big Al isn’t messing around. She (yes, she) also isn’t shy about making trail recommendations. In fact, everyone working here is a passionate local rider ready to tell you the best trails to ride for your ability – they’ll even divulge local secrets if you’re nice enough. We ultimately opt for the Snodgrass-Lupine-Lower, which starts in town and over the course of 37 km loops back around to where it started. With a route that includes a mountain climb, this is hard work for less experienced riders, but the view is more than worth the exertion.

Back in the heart of Crested Butte, with our calves and thighs on fire, our final night sees us patronising Kochevars Saloon. The oldest bar in town, it has a bullet hole still visible in the bar from when a cowboy shot at Butch Cassidy. No joke. Now that’s a museum experience of a different nature.

As we rub shoulders with the locals, this unpretentious joint makes us feel very much at home. When the band playing in the corner decides it’s time for a quick break, we take our leave and head across the road to Bonez Tequila Bar & Grill. We love the long bar and high tables – and the fact that happy hour brings in a lot of locals. There are shared tables here too to meet some of them, and the nachos are worth the visit in themselves. In fact, you’ll notice every local has nachos in front of them.

Salida

We’re a little sad to leave Crested Butte, which somehow manages to stay a secret to all but the most well-informed international travellers. Fortunately, our slight melancholy is balanced by a sense of excitement for what our next destination has to offer.

After two hours on the road, Salida comes into view, and our first impression is that it’s quite reminiscent of Crested Butte, with a similarly bright and vibrant downtown and plenty of activities for outdoor enthusiasts. Surrounded by the Sawatch Range, it offers easy access to the Arkansas River and Monarch Mountain, and it’s also well known for its ghost towns, which is our top priority as we pull into town. After all, nowhere in America does ghost towns quite like Colorado.

Having unpacked at Amigo Motor Lodge, we head off to St Elmo, which is one of the region’s best-preserved ghost towns. It lies around 50 minutes north-west of Salida, but the drive is fun in itself, as chances are you’ll see Rocky Mountain wildlife like bighorn sheep, antelope, and mule deer along the way.

Once home to 2,000 residents during its 1881 heyday, St Elmo was once full of saloons, dance halls, and other staples required to keep its mostly male population in good spirits. Now, 43 buildings remain, including a saloon, courthouse and jail, mercantile, and a number of private homes. Plus, you can still shop at the General Store in the summer months.

Further, if you arrived by 4×4, there are a couple of other nearby spots we recommend checking out. These include Hancock, Co.—another old mining town located 8 km south of St Elmo—and the ruins of the Mary Murphy Mine, an old gold mining town which operated from 1870 to 1925. Seeing these faded dream towns is a heck of a way to glimpse back into a past where people banked absolutely everything on finding their fortune, to hell with the consequences.

As we head back to town, it becomes clear we’ve worked up a mean hunger exploring these blasts from the past, so we duck into the Boathouse Cantina for some exceptional American / Baja Mexican, which we enjoy while taking in the restaurant’s outlook to the whitewater of the Arkansas River.

Next, we make our way to The Surf Hotel in Buena Vista, located around 30 minutes north, where we enjoy a few drinks and take in the excellent soul-tinged sounds of the local rock band on the stage. From there, we return to our 4×4 and drive back to our stay in the heart of Salida, turning in ahead of a day exploring the town’s surrounding waterways.

Inspired by the whitewater we saw from our vantage at the Boathouse Cantina, we decide to spend our final day in town with Salida River Adventures. Signing up for the Browns Canyon Full Day: Class II-IV offering, our day comprises 12 major rapids across 32 km of Salida’s best rafting real estate. When we’re not paddling with everything we have, we’re fortunate enough to take in incredible views of the Collegiate Peaks and the Sangre de Cristo Mountain ranges. We should note that this rafting experience passes through one of Colorado’s nine national monuments—Browns Canyon National Monument—and the views are suitably heart-stopping. As a bonus, the lunch provided by our guides is quite delicious — how did they even manage to keep it dry?

Leadville

As mentioned at the outset, the final stop on this second leg of Man of Many’s mammoth Colorado adventure is also the highest incorporated city in North America, with elevations of 3,095 to 3,109 m. Nicknamed “Cloud City”, Leadville’s natural beauty raises the already astronomically high bar set by its home state. As such, it’s also our most highly anticipated stop on this Central Coloradan sojourn.

Why, you ask? There’s just something about the sky in this part of the world. Not unlike Australia, it offers a vast blue openness during daylight hours that’s difficult to fathom. Then something uncanny happens at night, transforming it into a spellbinding canvas. If you’ve seen more stars, we’d like to know where. As such, we’re eagerly awaiting an evening of unforgettable stargazing in nearby Twin Lakes. But first, there’s some serious shopping and trainspotting to do.

First, we stop by Melanzana, a cult clothing store where we’ve made an appointment ahead of time (a must if you want the opportunity to purchase from the store’s full range). This policy is due to the small-scale, local manufacture of Melanzana’s outdoor clothing. It also limits visitors to one appointment every six months, so there’s enough to go around. We really appreciate the community-minded nature of this approach and how it tempers overconsumption. But don’t worry, if you can’t get an appointment while you’re in town, you can still peruse items like socks, hats, overstock, and vintage pieces.

As for trainspotting, by that we mean riding the scenic Leadville Railroad. Climbing aboard one of the open-air carriages pulled by a 1955 diesel engine, we journey from Leadville’s depot, built in 1896, to the Continental Divide, a high-elevation, mountainous boundary separating the Atlantic and Pacific watersheds, which are a pair of enormous continental drainage basins. This was one of the first rail routes built in Colorado’s silver rush days. Arguably, the highlight of this train ride (outside of the mind-melting scenery) is the presence of a couple of dogs who’ve joined their owners and the rest of us for the trip. Your mileage may vary in this regard, but the singular combination of a historic railroad, a world-class vantage, and some furry friends is difficult to top.

The one thing that does manage to top it is the aforementioned highly anticipated stargazing. As night encroaches, we make our way to Twin Lakes, which is around 25 minutes south of Leadville. Meeting other stargazing enthusiasts milling around near the Red Rooster Visitor Center, as the sun finally disappears, it reveals one of the most extraordinary sights on Earth. Far from any light pollution, the stars and moon illuminate with an intensity and beauty that has to be seen to be believed. A telescope isn’t necessary to appreciate this wondrous view, although others in attendance do have them and kindly offer us a peek. No matter the approach you take, it’s a humbling and electrifying experience; a valuable reminder that this is a beautiful corner of an unfathomably vast cosmos, and we are very fortunate to be here.

Farewell to Central Colorado

And with that, we reach the magical end of Man of Many’s second Coloradan leg. What an incredible journey it has been, exploring the beautiful towns that run through the heart of Colorado and discovering the wonderful people who call them home.

Keep an eye out for this series’ final instalment, where we’ll explore Colorado’s High-Country byways to discover spectacular vistas of treeless tundra, immaculate alpine lakes, and towering forests, all interspersed with hot springs, breweries, glimpses into history, and more!

Book With Intrepid

If you’re excited to book a journey for you and your crew through the heart of Colorado, simply visit the link below. From whitewater rafting on the Colorado River to world-class fly fishing in Gold Medal fishing waters, Intrepid will ensure it’s an adventure you’ll never forget.

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