The Wind Up: Living With the Longines HydroConquest

Hello, watch lovers! Welcome to another instalment of The Wind Up, Man of Many’s weekly wrap detailing the horological encounters, events, and releases that have caught our attention over the past seven days. I’m Rob, the Man of Many team member most likely to talk your ear off about the benefits of an in-house movement, and I’m very happy to be joining you once again.

As I mentioned in last week’s edition, the members of our team who ordered HydroConquests from Longines have taken delivery, and we’ve now been living with them for about a week and a half. To try something a little different for this instalment of The Wind Up, my colleague Ben McKimm and I sat down to discuss what made us pull the trigger on these particular watches, as well as our experience with them so far.

Below, I’ll also detail what it’s like to attend an exceptional lunch with the head of Raymond Weil, celebrating the maison’s 50th anniversary, as well as some truly exceptional new releases from Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen, and more. As always, there’s no time like the present and not a second to waste, so let’s get stuck in with the latest edition of Man of Many’s The Wind Up.

On the Wrist: Longines HydroConquest

Rob Edwards: So Ben, the question is, why pick the HydroConquest over any of the other, let’s be honest, quite similar-looking watches that are out there?

Ben McKimm: For one thing, the price. Every other watch keeps creeping up. What’s a Black Bay now? Almost $8,000? This is less than half that. It looks a bit like a Submariner, it looks a bit like a Black Bay, and it’s the right price.

Then there’s the range of options. Longines has essentially said, “We’ll get the right case size (we’ll offer two), we’ll make it thin, give it the right movement , we’ll give you bracelet options, and dial options as well — some of which are spicy and some plain.” There are a million reasons to opt for the HydroConquest.

Rob: It’s a really strong all-rounder, and yes, as a value proposition, it’s hard to beat. Longines has just nailed it. I don’t know how it’s priced the way it is when everyone else seems to be endlessly raising prices. They’ve sacrificed a touch of the older HydroConquests’ personality by getting rid of the numerals, but that broadens the appeal to include people who maybe want a Black Bay or a Submariner but can’t necessarily afford one. For them (and me), this is a really attractive option.

So why did you pick your particular reference over any of the others?

Ben: I hummed and hawed over it for a very long time. I thought, “Do I need another basic dive watch? And what colour do I go with?” After seeing some social media photos of them on people’s wrists, I thought green was the move. But once I spent time with it in the store and considered how often and where I’d wear it, it was between the black and the dark blue, which looks really good in the light.

But I ended up going with the black in 39 mm [ref. L3.779.4.56.6], which is the perfect size. It’s the type of watch that I don’t want to think about taking off my wrist or not picking up. I have a couple of other watches that I just don’t wear enough — it’s like I need to give myself an excuse to wear them. If I choose black and it goes with every piece of clothing I have in my wardrobe, then there’s no excuse not to pick it up.

Rob: I went for the 39-mm black-dial-grey-bezel combo [ref. L3.779.4.70.6] because I really wanted the Milanese bracelet. It just gives it that extra touch of personality, which is a nice complement to this safe, traditional dial. It’s beautifully executed, but safe. And the Milanese just gives it that little bit of something extra that sets it apart. Seeing as the other models with the Milanese didn’t do it for me — that’s the intense blue bezel model and the one with ice-blue dial — the black dial with the grey bezel was the move.

Ben: Yeah. I also want to put it on a different strap eventually. I think yours would work well on a strap, too. And the same could probably be said of the green. Something I want to play around with over time is putting it on a bunch of different coloured straps and just going all out with it, so that was another consideration.

Rob: So what do you like most about it?

Ben: The size. Honestly, it’s just having no reason not to put it on the wrist. I don’t want to have to make excuses for wearing a watch, and I think it’s the right brand and it’s the right size. It has all the features that I want in a watch. The size in terms of diameter and thickness is perfect. I honestly just spend so much time looking down at how thin it is. I’m like, “Man, this is such a comfortable watch to wear.” Because it’s not super chunky, I can wear it with whatever, from something casual to a suit. It also has the right movement, so it just ticks the boxes and then ultimately does it all for the right price.

Rob: It really is just a classic diver design. Slightly conservative, but that’s the point. As you said, the sizing couldn’t be better. Three of us in the office bought one, and we all opted for the 39-mm model. Our colleague Marcus went for a 38-mm piece, but he was seduced by the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve [ref. L1.648.4.92.2]. That’s a whole ‘nother story.

The 39 is absolutely perfect and feels like a 40 on the wrist. The Milanese is extremely comfortable, and the micro-adjust… I didn’t have a micro-adjust watch in my collection until now, and it’s a game-changer. I’ve always thought of it as, “Oh, that’s nice, but you probably don’t use it.” I use it all the time.

Ben: I’ve been using it literally every day. The weather’s been perfect for micro-adjusting! ‘Cause it’s been cold and it’s been hot, and I think even this morning I was walking to the train, and I’m a little overweight, so I started to swell a little bit. I was like, “Let me just adjust the micro-adjust really quick, so it’s not choking my wrist out.” There are so many reasons to love this watch.

Rob: Is there anything you’re not so keen on? For me, I have zero regrets about my purchase. Obviously, it’s not a Submariner, so that’s a shame. Outside of that foolishness, the only gripe I have is that it doesn’t have a quick-change strap mechanism, which I feel is a nit of an oversight. You alluded to wanting to swap out your straps, but I think that will be trickier than it needs to be.

Ben: Yeah, big oversight. I haven’t even really investigated, yet, how I could possibly even change straps. I’m sure there’s a way around it, but it’d be better if it had like a quick change. In terms of other things I don’t like, a display case back would have been a plus. And while the bracelet on mine is nice—it’s comfortable, doesn’t pinch at me or anything like that, and it looks quite premium—but if Longines ever release a five-link option, then I’m just going to want that in the future.

Rob: So, where does the Longines HydroConquest sit in your collection?

Ben: It’s the watch I’m going to wear every day for the foreseeable future. I’m still a little nervous about scratching it at the moment: I take it off if I’m sitting at a coffee shop with a metal table or using my laptop. I really don’t want to scratch it up yet, but I guess, honestly, that’s just a sign that I must be really into it.

Rob: Once you get the first scratch, you’ll stop worrying. Better to get it over and done with. Like you, it will probably be my daily driver for some time. It’s one of those things where, while it’s an unquestionably nice watch, its price point means you don’t have to be super precious about it, which is great. Other watches will come and go, but as an everyday watch, this is right in that sweet spot for me.

Rob’s Longines HydroConquest Key Specs:

• Reference: L3.779.4.70.6
• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 39 mm
• Thickness: 11.7 mm
• Water resistance: 300 m
• Dial: Black
• Bezel: Grey ceramic
• Bracelet: Stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet with double security folding clasp with micro adjustment system
• Movement: L888.5
• Power reserve: Up to 72 hours
• Price: AUD$3,550

Ben’s Longines HydroConquest Key Specs:

• Reference: L3.779.4.56.6
• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 39 mm
• Thickness: 11.7 mm
• Water resistance: 300 m
• Dial: Black
• Bezel: Black ceramic
• Bracelet: Stainless steel H-link bracelet with double security folding clasp with micro adjustment system
• Movement: L888.5
• Power reserve: Up to 72 hours
• Price: AUD$3,375

On the ‘Gram: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

Celebrating 50 Years of Raymond Weil

On Tuesday, I had the privilege of attending a luncheon to mark five decades of Raymond Weil, held just a short stroll up the hill from Sydney’s iconic Circular Quay in the swanky surroundings of the Capella Ballroom at The Lands by Capella.

In attendance were a host of the Australian watch world’s well-to-do, as well as Raymond Weil’s CEO, Elie Bernheim, who flew in as part of his worldwide Legacy Tour. This has seen Bernheim (the grandson of the company’s founder, Raymond Weil) travelling to key markets with a curated collection of 25 timepieces that represent pivotal moments across Raymond Weil’s history.

The event underscored the maison’s status as an independent operation, still family-owned, in a world where many such brands have been swallowed up by larger conglomerates. And while it certainly celebrated Raymond Weil’s past, there was an unmissable emphasis on the brand’s determination to create the new.

As Bernheim explained, “The most important thing about a 50th anniversary is not to become too focused on the past. We have an incredible history, but we are still a young company in many ways. We want to remain independent, curious and creative, and to continue making watches that people can connect with today and in the future.”

In a year that’s included releases like the A.R.T. collection and the very recent Millesime Jubilee (more on that below), you can’t deny Raymond Weil has turned things up a notch and has a head full of steam going into 2027. I’m curious to see what’s next.

Patek Philippe Stuns at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan

The past week has been a particularly eventful one for Patek Philippe, with the legendary watchmaker unveiling a host of new watches from the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan, much to the delight of horological obsessives everywhere.

Among these predictably stunning masterpieces were a pair of white-gold 5531 World Time Minute Repeaters, each boasting a cloisonné enamel dial, with one depicting Milan by day and the other by night. It’s the kind of release where you’ll really want one of each of these five-piece limited editions, provided you can find the AUD$1,322,900 required per watch.

Each one features a case measuring 40.2 mm in diameter and 11.49 mm thick, beautifully realised with a hand-guilloché Clous de Paris caseband, openworked lugs, and interchangeable solid gold or sapphire casebacks engraved “Patek Philippe Milano 2026”. Inside, the automatic Calibre R27 HU drives the World Time display and pairs it with a minute repeater that chimes the local time for whichever city sits at the 12 o’clock position. Lovely stuff, from the top of the watchmaking world.

In Other Watch News…

IWC Schaffhausen’s (Handsome) Big Green Monster

This week, IWC Schaffhausen released an undeniably attractive new incarnation of its Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, deploying a wonderfully understated shade of green to that expansive dial. Accompanied by both a five-link stainless steel bracelet and a matching olive-green rubber strap (using IWC’s EasX-CHANGE system so you can easily change up your look), it’s a tasteful addition to the firm’s already wide range of Big Pilot SKUs.

My only gripe is that at 43 mm, those of us without tree-trunk wrists won’t get to enjoy this reference’s delightful new shade of olive. Oh well. I shan’t allow such jealous impulses to turn me into a similar shade of green. After all, there’s every possibility more will follow. For now, I can admire this plus-sized Pilot from afar.

Raymond Weil Continues 50th Anniversary Celebrations

A luncheon wasn’t the only way Raymond Weil marked 50 years in the watch business this week. The maison also released the Millesime Jubilee, a 500-piece limited-edition chronograph that nods to the sold-out The Fifty release from earlier this year.

This release borrows that watch’s look and architecture, upsizes it to a perfectly proportioned 39 mm, deploys the RW5030 automatic movement, and throws in a deceptively complex light blue dial. Priced at AUD$6,995 (as opposed to The Fifty’s AUD$15,500 asking price), it’s a considerably more accessible way to snag a piece of Raymond Weil’s anniversary story.

NOMOS Glashütte’s Latest is Made for Night-Time Adventures

This one really turned heads within the Man of Many team this week. It’s already a good-looking watch, and then when you turn the lights out, it transforms into something more. For the first time on this model, NOMOS Glashütte has expanded its Superluminova offering to the city ring and home-time display, ensuring more of the world-time complication remains visible after dark.

I really like the Pepsi nod on the home-time display, and the 40 mm diameter and thickness of just 9.9 mm sound absolutely perfect. I’m genuinely hoping I can get one of these into the office to try in person sooner rather than later.