Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 3

Next up is a piece from Roger Dubuis with the insanely complicated Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph. Roger Dubuis really went all out with this new micro-piece of mastery, incorporating some patented technology like a 360-degree tourbillon and oscillating weight in an attempt to use gravitate to work for the watch (as opposed to attempting to dissipate its effects).

Encasing this super contemporary technology is 47mm of MCF Carbon Composite with a very distinct colourway. Roger Dubuis hasn’t rested on its laurels with its drama either, ensuring maximum visibility dial side and caseback side. Not for everyone, but damn this is supreme.

Brand: Roger Dubuis
Model: Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph
Diameter: 47mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: RD114
Price: Piece Unique

Visit Roger Dubuis

Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date

Montblanc has had an excellent showing, too. Among my favourites is the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. It features a grey patterned dial that mimics the texture of a glacier. This was achieved by using an old technique called gratté-boisé.

It comes on a stainless steel bracelet which matches the case, as well as a rubber strap which can be easily swapped out. It’s remarkable how far Montblanc is willing to take its 1858 collection, with this new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date model being a really cool example of that.

Brand: Montblanc
Model: 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
Reference Number: MB130807
Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Calibre: MB 24.17
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Price: AUD$4,800

Visit Montblanc

If you thought the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date was cool, wait until you see this. From Montblanc comes the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. Available in either lime gold or steel, the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph boasts an inverted movement that brings all of the theatrics of horology to the dial.

Inverting a dial basically means bringing most of the movement’s moving bits to the front of the dial, which Montblanc has done in tremendous fashion. It’s been finished really well to Montblanc’s standards, and is an exciting venture from the brand.

Brand: Montblanc
Model: 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
Reference Number: 1296xx
Diameter: 43mm
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: MB M16.26
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Price: USD$48,000 for lime gold / USD$33,500 for steel

Visit Montblanc

Hublot Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium | Image: Hublot

Hublot Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium

From Hublot we have the new Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium. As the name implies, the Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium features a titanium case that contains a double-axis tourbillon and a bi-retrograde display.

This is a very cool, very chic and very avant garde take on some serious watchmaking from Hublot. It’s an epic combination of haute horlogerie with some quirky design cues. I particularly like the different look of the watch, but it’s definitely not going to be for everyone.

Brand: Hublot
Model: Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium
Reference Number: 913.NX.1170.RX
Diameter: 44mm
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: HUB6200
Power Reserve: 96 hours
Price: AUD$220,000

Visit Hublot

Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex went rampant with its Watches & Wonders 2023 drops, but perhaps the best is from the new 1908 collection. The new Perpetual 1908 collection pays homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised the name “Rolex” and registered the brand in Switzerland, and features arguably one of the best looking dress watches around.

The Perpetual 1908 is clad in yellow gold, has a partly fluted bezel, a small seconds register and an open sapphire caseback. It’s neither revolutionary nor is it groundbreaking, but damn is it a welcomed sight in and amongst the plethora of all-metal Rolex tool watches. Love it.

Brand: Rolex
Model: Perpetual 1908
Reference Number: 52508
Diameter: 39mm
Water Resistance: 50m
Calibre: 7140
Power Reserve: 66 hours
Price: AUD$31,100

Visit Rolex