There’s nothing we love more than when a classic watchmaker keeps the mechanical spirit alive and relevant across multiple fields, digital age be damned. So goes Swiss legend Tudor, which has been equipping the French Navy specialist unit by way of its Pelagos FXD platform. The Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation)—responsible for naval aviation operations—must have liked what they saw and wanted in on the action. Heeding the call, Tudor has now released the Pelagos FXD GMT, a new model backed by an exemplary heritage with the ability to track three time zones at once. And so the mechanical spirit lives on.
At first glance, Tudor’s latest creation bears the hallmarks of a handsome sports watch—something we’d never argue with. However, a closer look reveals all kinds of military-inspired details, and not just the orange “Zulu time” hand sweeping along the dial face. Take the one-piece fabric strap, for instance, which was crafted in collaboration with haute couture ribbon designer Julien Faure. Not only is the strap presented in the shade of flight-suit green, but it features an embroidered keeper of the French Naval Aviation roundel.
Is it safe to assume that all those French navy pilots are using computers to keep time as they take to the skies at crazy high speeds? Probably. Nevertheless, Tudor’s latest model looks far better to us than any dashboard or device. Measuring 42mm in diameter, it combines robust features with clever details to retain a beautifully basic layout. Thanks to a GMT function, the watch can simultaneously keep time in up to three time zones, including the aforementioned “Zulu time,” i.e. the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and a baseline reference for all aviators.
Military associations aside, the Pelagos FXD GMT is also just one heck of a versatile watch. Under the black matt dial face is Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, Tudor’s in-house automatic movement with a power reserve of up to 70 hours. A bidirectional rotatable bezel and master chronometer certification make the piece a master of sea and sky alike, while its Rolex-adjacent design language cultivates an unbeatable aesthetic. Bring in the GMT function and date complication and you get a spectacular meeting ground between performance and style.
Tudor’s latest Pelagos FXD is sleek in all kinds of ways and effortlessly dependable. Created for Aéronautique Navale, it’s no less appropriate for business travellers and everyday adventurers. Indeed, the orange “Zulu time” hand and embroidered detailing are subtle details within a broader tapestry of iconic design. That is to say, everyone’s invited to this party!
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT ‘Zulu Time’
- Brand: Tudor
- Model: Pelagos FXD GMT ‘Zulu Time’
- Reference: Ref. m2542g247nu-0002
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 12.7mm
- Movement: Calibre MT5652-U (COSC and METAS certified)
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Water-Resistance: 200 metres
- Price: $6,890
