Metisse Restaurant Review: ‘The Luxury’

By Ben McKimm - Review

Published: 8 May 2023

This is my third time visiting Metisse in as many years, and while the latest menu titled ‘The Luxury’ is a notch above ‘The Voyage’ menu that I sampled previously, it retains some of my favourite dishes on any menu in Sydney. At the helm of the restaurant, and menu, is Chef Opel Khan, one of the industry’s most well-renowned and experienced chefs. As always, he moves around the restaurant and greets his guests whenever he’s available, even serving on some occasions. This is a fine-dining experience to remember.

When I first visited Metisse in June 2021, it was an eye-opener for just how special the fine-dining scene in Sydney can be when an exceptional guest experience is paired with great food and wine. This might sound like an expectation more than a talking point, but I fear social media has somehow convinced many ‘foodies’ that a ‘long queue = good food’ which just isn’t the case. It felt wrong to even film/ photograph some of these dishes because sometimes the memories are best kept between you and the dish itself.

If you’re going to treat yourself and your significant other to a birthday dinner or celebration, do yourself a favour and visit a restaurant like Metisse. Here’s why.

Amuse Bouche | Image: Metisse

Metisse ‘The Luxury’ Degustation

Degustation: $300pp
Wine Pairing: $150pp
Premium Wine Pairing: $300pp
Highlights: Caviar and white truffle custard, 48-hour air-dried duck breast, Wagyu in truffle reduction.

Visually, the restaurant remains one of my favourites in Sydney. It’s well laid out and you’ll never find yourself rubbing shoulder with anyone or struggling to hear a conversation with the person next to you. The stunning Muriel cloud chandelier of hand-blown glass floats in the centre of the room and commands attention. I took my seat towards the back of the restaurant this time, instead of the booths at the other end.

You’ll want to start the degustation with a cocktail, and while the Smoked Old Fashioned (Bourbon, Aromatic Bitters, House Caramel Syrup, Smoked with Apple Wood) remains my outright favourite, I was more than happy with my Royal Cuban (Champagne based) and Negroni Blanc selection. The green chartreuse and orange bitters in the latter make this a must-try for Negroni fans.

Caviar and white truffle | Image: Metisse

The Amuse Bouche soon followed, really leaning into the luxury elements with the caviar and white truffle custard dish that I’ve highlighted in the images above. This dish is expertly presented with liquid nitrogen before the meal starts, leaving a cold, lingering cloud under the Studio Enti ceramic oyster shell. I’ll admit, I couldn’t help but get out my phone to film this one. I’ll also make a special note of the pea macaroon here, with Chef Opel adding a very light touch of spice that works perfectly with the toasted coconut.

A herbal bone broth palate cleanser later and it’s time to be reunited with an old friend. I first tried the Mosaïque (Bluefin tuna, ocean trout, kingfish) with beurre noisette upon my first visit to Metisse and I’m so glad to see it remain on the menu. This time, Chef makes no particular mention of the lightly-smoked salt that’s been added, but it brings this dish to another level. Paired with a Domenica Roussanne Marsanne from Beechworth, Victoria I found it to be a little too minerally and peppery for this dish. That being said, the following red wines were absolute stunners. Rich, vibrant, and very luxurious.

Yamba prawn, octopus carpaccio, salmon confit, and sea scallop | Image: Metisse

Continuing the seafood theme is the Yamba prawn, octopus carpaccio, salmon confit, and sea scallop dish. Quite literally the most luxurious seafood platter you’ll ever come across, it’s the textures in this dish that stand out. From the pop and crunch of the prawn with roe to the soft and succulent salmon confit.

The following ‘Carnard’ duck breast is air-dried for 48 hours and served with a miniature confit leg pastry before being glazed in an orange and tangerine citrus glaze with freeze-dried cherries. Pan-fried skin down, it left the skin crisp but remarkably easy to cut. Finally, the rich, luxurious, Wagyu beef MBS6+ served with a beautiful salt-crusted celeriac tart and fermented beetroot juice daikon it’s an exceptional dish. As mentioned, very rich wagyu, that’s best served in small portions with a truffle reduction, so you won’t be left wanting for more.

I believe that the final dish sums up the menu perfectly, one that starts with caviar and truffle, before finishing with rich wagyu in a truffle reduction. It screams luxury fine dining. And when you combine this with a beautiful setting, outstanding service, and a wine list that’s ready for any occasion, this is everything that I love about modern French cuisine.

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