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In this week’s round-up of all the latest watch releases in our regular series, The Wind Up, we have some amazing watches from the likes of Ferdinand Berthoud, H. Moser & Cie, TAG Heuer and A. Lange & Sohne, along with a handful of other watchmakers. So, as always gents, sit back and enjoy!
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Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 “Night Star” for Only Watch 2019
For Ferdinand Berthoud’s very first time participating in Only Watch, the manufacture decided to donate a stunning remake of its highly acclaimed FB 1. Called the “Night Star”, this unique model of the FB 1 features a beautiful dark look throughout. The expansive dial leaves little to the imagination, with details adorning every bit of real estate. The octagonal case, semi-exposed movement and overly engineered look really does render the FB 1 “Night Star” an intriguing package.
- Brand: Ferdinand Berthoud
- Model: Chronomètre FB 1 “Night Star” (Only Watch 2019 unique piece)
- Reference: FB 1.4-4
- Case Diameter: 44mm
- Case Thickness: 13mm
- Case Material: Sandblasted anthracite-ceramised titanium
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 atm)
- Movement: Calibre FB-T.FC-2 — manual-wind tourbillon with fusée-and-chain transmission, COSC-certified chronometer
- Power Reserve: 53 hours
- Strap: Hand-stitched rolled-edge black alligator with alligator lining; ceramised titanium double-blade folding clasp
- Price (at launch): CHF 150,000 (realised at Christie’s Only Watch 2019 charity auction, 9 November 2019; unique piece)
Shop Ferdinand Berthoud watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition
Like Ferdinand Berthoud’s darker take on the FB 1, H. Moser & Cie’s approach to the Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition shared some aesthetic similarities. Building on one of the manufacture’s most popular platforms, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition shares the same base look as the original Pioneer Centre Seconds, except this time it features a black DLC-treated steel case and a Funky Blue fume-finished dial with a sunburst dial. I really enjoy these darkened models, and with the craze of black ceramic and carbon sweeping through the industry, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition is a no-brainer for H. Moser & Cie.
- Brand: H. Moser & Cie
- Model: Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition
- Reference: 3200-1205
- Case Diameter: 42.8 mm
- Case Thickness: 10.6 mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel with black DLC treatment
- Water Resistance: 120 m (12 ATM)
- Movement: HMC 200, in-house automatic, bi-directional pawl winding, Straumann hairspring, 21,600 vph
- Power Reserve: Minimum 72 hours
- Strap: Black rubber strap with steel pin buckle
- Price (at launch): AUD$22,650
TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999
The third Monaco released by TAG Heuer celebrating the model’s 50th anniversary, this time celebrating the decade between 1989 and 1999. The Monaco 1989-1999 was launched with Patrick Dempsey in New York City and has a very appealing vintage style to it that is obviously quite consistent with the entire Monaco lineage. It’s look is reminiscent of the styles of the ’90s and features a sandblasted grey dial, red indexes, blue counters and and the atypical placement of the crown on the left side of the watch. Super cool.
- Brand: TAG Heuer
- Model: Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition (50th Anniversary)
- Reference: CAW211X.FC6468
- Case Diameter: 39 mm × 39 mm (square)
- Case Thickness: 14.3 mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel (fine-brushed and polished)
- Water Resistance: 100 m
- Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 11 Automatic chronograph (Sellita SW-300 base with Dubois-Depraz module), 28,800 vph, 59 jewels
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Strap: Blue perforated calfskin leather with red leather interior lining, polished stainless steel folding clasp
- Price (at launch): A$10,800
A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
The Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” is the sixth model released as part of A. Lange & Sohne’s limited edition anniversary pieces celebrating the Lange 1’s 25th birthday. The Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” has a distinct look that many Lange aficionados have grown to adore, and it’s quickly become the quintessential German-made watch. Its asymmetrical look, unique styling and understated look makes the Lange 1 Moon Phase a winner in my books, and the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” is no different in this case. The moon phase indicator is a work of art, and the solid silver dial serves as the perfect backdrop to a very beautiful watch.
- Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
- Model: Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
- Reference: 192.066
- Case Diameter: 38.5mm
- Case Thickness: 10.2mm
- Case Material: 18k white gold
- Movement: A. Lange & Söhne Calibre L121.3, manual winding
- Power Reserve: 72 hours (twin mainspring barrel)
- Strap: Hand-stitched blue alligator leather with solid white-gold prong buckle
- Price (at launch): EUR 43,300
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Racing Green
An icon amongst icons’ IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is one of IWC’s most prolific and most recognisable watches. Now available with a stunning green dial with a sunray-brushed finish, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Racing Green is a fun addition to a collection of some otherwise fairly serious watches. The green dial is perhaps not to everyone’s liking, but I for one enjoy its differentiating factor. Pushing the boundaries seems to be on Chris Graingerherr’s agenda, and the boss of IWC certainly has a knack for knowing what the market wants well before the market does. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Racing Green is limited to only 1,000 pieces so you better act fast to get yours, otherwise you’ll be left sitting there, green with envy. Yep, I went there.
- Brand: IWC Schaffhausen
- Model: Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Racing Green”
- Reference: IW377726
- Case Diameter: 43 mm
- Case Thickness: 15.3 mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 60 m (6 bar)
- Movement: IWC Calibre 79320, automatic chronograph (based on ETA Valjoux 7750)
- Power Reserve: 44 hours
- Strap: Brown calfskin with steel pin buckle
- Price (at launch): CHF 6,300
Edox Skydiver Military Limited Edition
Durable, versatile and well suited to handle the best that life can throw at it, the Skydiver Military Limited Edition was rumoured to originally have been manufactured following a Swiss colonel secret request way back in 1973. Originally engineered for paratroopers, the Skydiver Military Limited Edition continues to maintain its air of functionality and of supreme toughness. Featuring a green bezel, faux-patina hour markers and hands, as well as a stainless-steel case and bracelet, the Skydiver Military Limited Edition looks like it was built to outlast mankind itself. Powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, the Skydiver Military Limited Edition looks damn cool.
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of horology.
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The Wind Up – Watch News #107
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The Wind Up – Watch News #105
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