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Another week has come and gone, and that means another round-up of all the latest watches in our Wind Up series. In this week’s instalment we have watches from the likes of Bell & Ross, Chronoswiss and MB&F, along with a handful of exceptional watchmakers. So, as always gents, sit back and enjoy!
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The Wind Up – Watch News #108
Bell & Ross Vintage V2 Military Beige Chronograph
With its sand-beige coloured dial clad in an ultra-wearable 41mm wide stainless-steel case, Bell & Ross’ Vintage V2 Military Beige Chronograph is, from the outset at least, a very attractive package. The addition of the red dial hints emphasises the theme of vintage-wear, and while the use of a fairly stock-standard ebauche movement is less than ideal, overall I find that the Vintage V2 Military Beige Chronograph has wonderful appeal throughout. As an owner of a similarly styled Bell & Ross chronograph, I can attest personally to its quality and feel. And the Vintage V2 Military Beige Chronograph looks to be no different. Exceptional stuff.
- Brand: Bell & Ross
- Model: BR V2-94 Military Beige Chronograph
- Reference: BRV294-BEI-ST/SF (strap) / BRV294-BEI-ST/SST (bracelet)
- Case Diameter: 41mm
- Case Thickness: 14mm
- Case Material: Polished-satin stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 100m / 330ft
- Movement: BR-CAL.301 automatic (based on ETA 2894-2), 28,800 vph
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Strap: Elastic canvas strap or satin-finished steel bracelet with deployant clasp
- Price (at launch): AUD$6,300 (strap) / AUD$6,800 (bracelet)
Chronoswiss Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec
Blue is watchmaking’s new black. And Chronoswiss have hopped onto that bandwagon with the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec. With a case made of stainless-steel with a DLC coating giving off a super sharp, Electric Blue look, the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec is striking to say the least. The blue look of the case extends to the expansive dial and Chronoswiss’ iconic onion crown, too. Verging on being too blue, there does seem to be enough colour differentiation and differing shades throughout the watch to minimise the risk of a wash out. Fans of blue watches and blue in general will be hard-pressed to find something as blue as the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec.
- Brand: Chronoswiss
- Model: Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec
- Reference: CH-6926-BLBL
- Case Diameter: 44mm
- Case Thickness: 13.35mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel with blue DLC coating
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Movement: Chronoswiss Calibre C.301, automatic, 28,800 vph, 33 jewels
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Strap: Blue crocodile hornback leather strap with folding buckle
- Price (at launch): CHF 9,900
MB&F LM2 Red Gold & Blue
Now available in a red gold case and blue dial (not in response to Chronoswiss’s blue piece above!), MB&F’s ultra technical LM2 has had a new lease of life. Not necessarily a unique colour pairing, gold and blue is trendy and stylish, not only in watchmaking. This new model of the LM2 reminds me of something that is a bit more in-tune with the world of high fashion while still remaining faithful to its horological roots. MB&F’s dual flying balance wheels are still the centrepiece of the LM2, except this time it has a backdrop that is slightly more design-inspired. At 148,000CHF and limited to only 12-pieces, the LM2 is both super expensive and super exclusive, but super desirable nonetheless.
- Brand: MB&F
- Model: Legacy Machine No.2 (LM2) — Red Gold / Blue Dial
- Reference: 02.RL.B
- Case Diameter: 44mm
- Case Thickness: 19mm (including domed sapphire crystal)
- Case Material: 18k red gold, brushed and polished
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar)
- Movement: MB&F calibre LM2, manual winding, twin 11mm flying balance wheels connected by planetary differential, developed by Jean-François Mojon (Chronode) and Kari Voutilainen; 241 components, 44 jewels, 18,000 vph
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Strap: Dark blue hand-stitched alligator leather with 18k red gold and titanium folding clasp
- Price (at launch): CHF 148,000 ex. VAT (limited to 12 pieces)
Shop MB&F watches at MBandF.com
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248
Grand Seiko seems to be synonymous with quality, and the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 is a prime example of that. Now available with a yellow gold bezel and off-centre crown with a blue dial and bezel insert, it seems that the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 is Grand Seiko’s attempt at pushing its way further into the super competitive market space that Rolex has occupied for such a long period of time. Irrespective of that, the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 does have some pretty cool qualities. The dial looks perfect. A difficult thing to say, I know. But from what I can see there is virtually nothing that I can nit-pick at. Sometimes the pairing of golds and blues can be a touch tacky, but in the case of the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 Grand Seiko have definitely hit the nail on its head with respect to its design.
- Brand: Grand Seiko
- Model: Spring Drive GMT
- Reference: SBGE248
- Case Diameter: 44mm
- Case Thickness: 14.7mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel with 18k yellow gold bezel and crown
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Movement: Grand Seiko Calibre 9R66 Spring Drive GMT (automatic winding, quartz regulation)
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Strap: Stainless steel three-link bracelet with three-fold clasp, brushed and polished
- Price (at launch): AUD$16,400
Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic
Featuring a sandblasted matte black ceramic case and a deep army-green dial, the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic is as stealthy as it is cool. The blend of blacks and greens makes the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic a very approachable, very wearable watch. Easily paired with a casual to a smart casual outfit, the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic is well versed for a variety of environments and occasions. Powered by an in-house movement which only boosts the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic’s appeal, daily wearability is perhaps the watch’s greatest attribute. I love the idea of wearing something as low-key as a matte black ceramic watch with a dark green dial, and the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic fits the bill perfectly.
- Brand: Panerai
- Model: Radiomir 1940 3 Days Ceramic
- Reference: PAM00997
- Case Diameter: 48mm
- Case Thickness: 16.12mm
- Case Material: Sandblasted matte black ceramic with smoked sapphire crystal caseback
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Movement: Panerai Calibre P.3000, hand-wound in-house, 21,600 vph
- Power Reserve: 3 days (approx. 72 hours), twin mainspring barrels
- Strap: Black calf leather with DLC-coated titanium buckle; additional beige canvas strap included
- Price (at launch): EUR 12,900
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance
Last, but certainly not least, is the Minute Repeater Resonance from one of my favourite independent watchmakers, Armin Strom. Having paved the way for a very unique, very modern and very recognisable aesthetic, Armin Strom has pulled out all the stops in preparation for the Minute Repeater Resonance. This is the world’s first and only watch to combine a chiming mechanism (in this case a minute repeater) with a resonance complication. A difficult task to say the least, and one that really should shed some light onto just how capable Armin Strom is a true high-end watchmaking. Priced at 380,000CHF and limited to only 10-pieces, the Minute Repeater Resonance is a true aficionados piece. With some very deep pockets.
Shop the Minute Repeater Resonance at Armin Strom
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of horology.
You’ll also like:
The Wind Up – Watch News #108
The Wind Up – Watch News #107
The Wind Up – Watch News #106
- Brand: Armin Strom
- Model: Minute Repeater Resonance Manufacture Edition Titanium
- Reference: TI19-RMR.SA
- Case Diameter: 47.7 mm
- Case Thickness: 16.10 mm
- Case Material: Grade 5 titanium, brushed and polished finish
- Water Resistance: 30 m (3 bar)
- Movement: Caliber ARR18, in-house manual-wind with resonance system and minute repeater; 51 jewels, 408 parts, 25,200 vph
- Power Reserve: 96 hours (4 days)
- Strap: Dark grey alligator leather, folding clasp
- Price (at launch): CHF 380,000 (limited to 10 pieces)
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