The Wind Up – Watch News #321

Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. With Watches & Wonders 2025 now in the rear-view mirror, it’s time to set our sights on the future. The world’s biggest brands, sans-Swatch Group, of course, have unveiled their novelties for the year, and it’s shaping up to be a monster 12 months in the watch world.

However, despite the annual showcase coming to a close and much of the mystery surrounding the industry officially ending, there is still much to discuss. Fresh off a series of grandstanding novelties, the world’s biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—have kept the good vibes rolling. In this week’s feature, we’ll highlight a range of new and exciting pieces from Bovet, H. Moser & Cie., and IWC and Panerai. Happy reading, gents, and have a great week ahead.

Bovet Récital 30

• Brand: Bovet
• Model: Récital 30
• Diameter: 42mm
• Thickness: 12.90mm
• Material: Titanium; Red gold
• Movement: Calibre R30-70-001
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: CHF68,000 (Titanium); CHF96,800 (Red gold – limited to 30 pieces)

This week, Bovet introduced the Récital 30, an unleaded version of the super complicated (and wildly expensive) Récital 28 multifunction world timer released last year. The Récital 30 allows for a relatively instantaneous view of over 25 time zones, much like the more complicated model, albeit in a far simpler and less lavish manner.

Where the previous model measured 46.3mm and housed a perpetual calendar with roller-based indications and a flying tourbillon, the new model reduces much of the fluff. The Récital 30 focuses solely on the worldtimer function, which has allowed the heritage watchmaker to trim the diameter down to a much more manageable 42mm.

Inside, the Bovet Récital 30 is powered by the R30-70-001 automatic movement, which boasts a power reserve of 60 hours and beats at a remarkable 28,800 vibrations per hour. Capable of calibrating four distinct annual periods, the Récital 30 can keep track of inconsistencies and improve general precision with the added benefit of personalisation. Anyone lucky enough to snag one of these incredible pieces would be able to pick the dial colour and city names, a highlight of Bovet’s individualised approach to its watchmaking.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up

• Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
• Model: Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up
• Reference: Ref. 3201-1200
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: 12mm
• Material: Stainless steel
• Movement: Calibre HMC 201
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Water Resistance: 120 metres
• Price: CHF14,500

H. Moser & Cie.’s fun-loving spirit is back on full display. The revered watchmaker has unveiled its latest and greatest, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up; complete with a dazzling yellow fumé dial. As the name might suggest, this unique finish is accentuated by a sunburst pattern set against a polished and brushed stainless steel case, giving the Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up a more casual approach to high-end manufacture.

The Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up’s party in the front, business in the back ethos is made that much more apparent with its calibre HMC 201 movement. It boasts 72 hours of power, hacking seconds and a Straumann hairspring—some serious watchmaking—under the hood. Beyond that, the anthracite-finished movement is executed remarkably well and features double striping and gold engraving throughout.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Lake Tahoe

• Brand: IWC Schaffhausen
• Model: Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Lake Tahoe
• Reference: Ref. IW328104
• Diameter: 41mm
• Thickness: 11.40mm
• Material: Ceramic zirconium oxide
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Movement: Calibre 32112
• Power Reserve: 120 hours
• Price: CHF7,800 AID$13,200

Not to be outdone, IWC has stepped back into the ring with a new take on its much-loved Lake Tahoe timepiece. This time around, the white ceramic Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Lake Tahoe brings a more compact and streamlined aesthetic to the fold, arriving in a manageable 41mm case size that extends just 11.4mm off the wrist. The upgrades, while slim, make for a decidedly more ergonomic finish, which only works to accentuate the timepiece’s already impressive design language.

Coloured ceramics are definitely having a moment, so it’s no surprise that IWC extended its Lake Tahoe aesthetic to the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 line. The Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 is where form meets function, and in this TOP GUN Lake Tahoe reference, that sentiment definitely rings true.

I love the contrast between the deep matte black dial, the soft white ceramic case, the white textured rubber strap, and the white luminous markers and tracks. The Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Lake Tahoe is a watch that works on many different levels and that I think, at the bare minimum, would look absolutely tremendous while strapped to a wrist on a sunny day at the local cafe. I love it.

Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574
• Reference: Ref. PAM01574
• Diameter: 44mm
• Material: Ceramic
• Movement: Calibre P.9012
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Water Resistance: 300 metres
• Price: CHF14,800

For fans of Panerai, the Luminor is a serious player. The big and bulky diver is very much the maison’s quintessential release, revered for its precision at depth and unique design language. The latest Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574, unveiled this week, does little to diminish that reputation. Clad in sandblasted ceramic and featuring a blue sunray-brushed sandwich dial, the PAM01574 is an epic package of practicality, functionality and damn fine good looks. The pairing of blue with black just seems to work, and in the case of the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574, there is no doubt in my mind that this was the best combination for the model.

Trivial as it might seem, the addition of a GMT to the perennial Luminor model is a welcome one. This is a wonderfully useful watch that combines a unique and rather beautiful aesthetic with modernity and real-world practicality. Another winner from Panerai who has opened 2025 with some absolute bangers.