The Wind Up – Watch News #323

Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. With Watches & Wonders 2025 now in the rear-view mirror, it’s time to set our sights on the future. The world’s biggest brands, sans-Swatch Group, of course, have unveiled their novelties for the year, and it’s shaping up to be a monster 12 months in the watch world.

However, despite the annual showcase coming to a close and much of the mystery surrounding the industry officially ending, there is still much to discuss. Fresh off a series of grandstanding novelties, the world’s biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—have kept the good vibes rolling. In this week’s feature, we’ll highlight a range of new and exciting pieces from Louis Vuitton and Mido, along with a collection expansion from Raymond Weil. Happy reading, gents, and have a great week ahead.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Galactique

• Brand: Louis Vuitton 
• Model: Tambour Taiko Galactique
• Reference: Ref. W9TI12
• Diameter: 46.70mm
• Thickness: 14.60mm
• Material: White gold
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Movement: Calibre LFT AU14.02
• Power Reserve: 100 hours
• Price: €1 million (Piece unique)

It isn’t like Louis Vuitton to remain subtle, but over the past few years, the iconic French luxury house has quietly been upping its watchmaking credentials. Backed by the same powerhouse team responsible for industry stalwarts TAG Heuer, Zenith and Bulgari, Louis Vuitton has pushed into the world of haute horology with a string of incredible pieces such as the Tambour Convergence and Escale Automatic. Its latest effort, the Tambour Taiko Galactique, could well be its best.

Boasting a minute repeater with an automata mechanism, the Tambour Taiko Galactique is an incredible work of art in every sense of the word. Depicting an out-of-this-world astrological scene, the mixed-medium timepiece features four different types of enamelling across the base, the dial, the star-patterned areas, the astronaut and the flag, and the monotone lunar surface. The dial’s visual mastery, which reportedly took LV craftsmen over 300 hours to create, is matched only by the moving mechanism that drives the unique complication.

When the chime of the minute repeater is activated, the astronaut begins to move by raising and lowering his right arm, planting a Louis Vuitton flag into the lunar surface. Impressively, the character’s left arm works as a counter-balance to create a sense of control and structure. Meanwhile, shooting stars oscillate as the Sun turns, with each unique figure turning at different speeds.

Aside from the complexity of a minute repeater, the automata adds another layer of intricacy that is absolutely applaudable. Add to that the six baguette-cut sapphires and two baguette-cut topaz gems on the actuating slide, and what you have is a timepiece that really walks to the beat of its drum. Spectacular. 

Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

• Brand: Raymond Weil
• Model: Millesime 35
• Reference: Ref. 2130-STC-80001 / Ref. 2130-STC-60521 / Ref. 2130-STC-65001 / Ref. 2130-C5S-64001
• Diameter: 35mm
• Thickness: 10.2mm
• Movement: Calibre RW4250 Self-winding
• Power Reserve: 41 hours
• Water-Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: AUD$3,600 / AUD$3,600 / AUD$3,600 / AUD$4,600

With six new models in 35mm and three new 39mm chronographs, Raymond Weil’s intent is rather obvious—build upon the immense success of its Millesime Collection, which won the very prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Challenge category in 2023. If you ask me, it’s not a bad move and I’m not the only one who thinks that.

According to Elie Berheim, CEO of Raymond Weil, the Millesime collections remain one of the maison’s most important lines. As a result, it was only natural that the revered watchmaker take the time and effort to modernise the range.

“The Millesime collection reflects both our dedication to Swiss watchmaking traditions and our drive to innovate while staying accessible,” Bernheim said. “With these new models, we continue our mission to offer refined timepieces that honour our legacy and speak to the watch enthusiasts of tomorrow.”

The six new time-only references include four models (salmon dial, anthracite dial, silver dial and cream dial with rose gold PVD case), and two models on stainless steel bracelets (green dial and cream dial with lab-grown diamonds) The three chronographs include two anthracite dial references (one on a bracelet, the other on a strap), while the third model comes with a rose gold PVD-coated case and a black dial.

Raymond Weil Millesime 35 Collection

• Brand: Raymond Weil
• Model: Millesime 35
• Reference: Ref. 2130-STC-80001 / Ref. 2130-STC-60521 / Ref. 2130-STC-65001 / Ref. 2130-C5S-64001
• Diameter: 35mm
• Thickness: 10.2mm
• Movement: Calibre RW4250 Self-winding
• Power Reserve: 41 hours
• Water-Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: AUD$3,600 / AUD$3,600 / AUD$3,600 / AUD$4,600

Raymond Weil Millesime Central Seconds Collection

• Brand: Raymond Weil
• Model: Millesime Central Seconds
• Reference: Ref. 2125-STS-64001 / Ref. 2125-ST-52011
• Diameter: 35mm
• Thickness: 9.18mm
• Movement: Calibre RW4200 Self-winding
• Power Reserve: 41 hours
• Water-Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: AUD$3,200 / AUD$3,850

Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph 39 Collection

• Brand: Raymond Weil
• Model: Millesime Chronograph 39
• Reference: Ref. 7765-PC5-20631 / Ref. 7765-STC-60651 / Ref. 7765-ST-60651
• Diameter: 39mm
• Thickness: 12.9mm
• Movement: Calibre RW5030 Self-winding
• Power Reserve: 62 hours
• Water-Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: AUD$6,800 / AUD$6,500 / AUD$3,600 / AUD$6,700

Mido Multifort Skeleton Chronograph

• Brand: Mido
• Model: Multifort Skeleton Chronograph
• Reference: Ref. M038.662.17.040.00 / Ref. M038.662.37.050.00 / Ref. M038.662.11.060.00
• Diameter: 43mm
• Thickness: 14.40mm
• Material: Stainless steel
• Movement: Calibre 60
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Price: AUD$3,795 / AUD$3,950 / AUD$3,795

When it comes to value-for-money timepieces, Mido is right up there with the best. The Swiss brand has been going from strength to strength in recent years, with some of its more avant-garde designs and case shapes helping to swing consumers from one side of the fence to the other. The latest Multifort Skeleton Chronograph continues that very tradition.

An excellent example of basic openworking, the Multifort Skeleton Chronograph comes in three distinct colour variations: blue with a matching blue strap, anthracite on a bracelet and a PVD-coated black edition on a black textured rubber strap. Inside, you’ll find the automatic calibre 60 A05.951, a chronograph movement that the brand reveals was “developed and implemented” by MIDO for the very first time.

These pieces exhibit an openworked dial with some rather industrial finishings, however with respect to the price there is little room for complaint. The Multifort Skeleton Chronograph is an example a maison looking to push its own boundaries while retaining its look and price point. Bravo Mido.

Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium Collection

• Brand: Citizen
• Model: Zenshin 60 Super Titanium
• Reference: Ref. NK5020-58L (Light blue) / Ref. NK5020-58M (Dark blue) / Ref. NK5020-58P (Copper) / Ref. NK5020-58X (Green)
• Diameter: 40.5mm
• Thickness: 11.25mm
• Movement: Calibre 8322 automatic
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Water-Resistance: 100 metres
• Price: EUR499

There is no other way to say it, the Zenshin 60 Super Titanium from Citizen is just a very cool watch. Super Titanium case with Duratect treatment (Citizen’s proprietary surface-hardening technology), an in-house automatic movement in the Calibre 8322, colourful yet not over-the-top dials and an air of affordable sophistication make for a very interesting package.

At €499, I think you would be hard-pressed to find a better value watch, especially if you’re looking for something to wear comfortably every day. The benefits of titanium are obvious: an automatic movement with 60 hours of power reserve, rather wearable proportions (40.50mm x 11.25mm) and the look of a sporty integrated bracelet watch. Sign me up.