One of the toughest seats to score in Sydney, Firedoor opens its reservations three months in advance. The lure is simple: one of the country’s best menus, cooked entirely over an open flame. Still, on the first Wednesday of each month at midday, guests queue online to book this experience without an idea of what chef and owner Lennox Hastie has in store. This is an award-winning destination restaurant, and it has to be experienced to be believed. But it wasn’t always this way.
Before opening Firedoor in April 2015, Hastie found himself at a crossroads. His time working in Michelin-starred restaurants across the U.K., France, and Spain had armed him with the tools of the tools of the trade, but his passion was waning. As he explains, he had lost sight of what he loved most about cooking: the ingredients.
“What drew me to this path was the idea of getting back to basics, to strip away the non-essentials and discover the most natural form of cooking. I wanted to explore the deep connection between fire and flavour, how the elemental power of flames can transform the simplest ingredients into something extraordinary,” he said.
In desperate need of a spark to reignite his passion, Hastie joined Victor Arguinzoniz at Asador Etxebarri in Basque Country, and it was here that his whole world changed. Under the guidance of the internationally renowned fire chef, Hastie became a student of the theatre of flame, learning that it is more than just a source of heat—it is nature’s most powerful flavour enhancer.
“Cooking with fire is primal, it’s something that connects us on a human level. There’s an intrinsic honesty to it—no modern gadgets, no shortcuts. It’s just you, the ingredient, and the fire.”
He brought as much of that passion as he could fit in his luggage back to Australia in 2011 and opened Firedoor in 2015 in partnership with FINK. Today, it’s one of the country’s most awarded restaurants.
You rarely see such instant success in the hospitality industry, but the awards flooded in within the first year. Firedoor was awarded One Chef Hat from The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide in 2015, and Hastie was named Best New Talent by Australian Gourmet Traveller in the same year. Firedoor was awarded two Chefs Hats in 2017 and 2018, and then in 2020, Hastie was named Chef of the Year in the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Awards.
More recently, Firedoor was named number three in the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants (2020), and it won its first Three Chefs Hats in The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2023. Today, it holds Two Chefs Hats and scored 17.5/20 points in the Good Good Guide Awards 2024.
I recently caught up with Lennox Hastie to learn about his journey, the lessons he’s learned along the way, and where he sees the future of restaurants and cooking in Australia.
What motivated you to embark on this culinary path as a pioneer in cooking with fire?
Cooking with fire is primal, it’s something that connects us on a human level. There’s an intrinsic honesty to it—no modern gadgets, no shortcuts. It’s just you, the ingredient, and the fire. What drew me to this path was the idea of getting back to basics, to strip away the non-essentials and discover the most natural form of cooking. I wanted to explore the deep connection between fire and flavour, how the elemental power of flames can transform the simplest ingredients into something extraordinary.
How did your early experiences, particularly in Spain, set the foundation for your career?
Spain was a seminal experience for me. Working in the Basque Country at Asador Etxebarri alongside Bittor Arguinzoniz, I learned that fire is more than just a source of heat—it is nature’s most powerful flavour enhancer. Victor’s approach was meticulous, a balance of respect for the ingredient and the flames. The way he worked with fire to coax out the natural flavour of food was unlike anything I had ever seen. That experience opened my eyes to the potential of fire, not just as a cooking method, but as a language of its own. It laid the foundation for everything I do now.
What unique techniques have you developed that set you apart from other chefs in the industry?
One of the techniques I have developed over the years is what I call “layered cooking,” where I use different types of wood and varying intensities of heat to build complex flavours. I’m constantly experimenting with the relationship between smoke, temperature, and time to create nuances in taste that are impossible to achieve with conventional methods. Another technique is my focus on proximity—placing ingredients at varying distances from the flames and even sometimes directly in the embers to achieve different textures and flavours within the same dish. These techniques are about understanding and working with the unpredictable nature of fire, rather than trying to control it completely.
Can you share a pivotal moment when you had to push boundaries to achieve your vision?
There was a time early on when I was working on a dish that involved cooking a delicate fish over an open flame. Conventional wisdom would say to use a gentle, even heat, but I wanted to push the boundaries. I decided to use a fiercely hot fire, knowing that it would char the exterior quickly. The challenge was to keep the inside perfectly moist and tender. It was a risk, but when I tasted that first bite, the contrast between the charred crust and the delicate flesh was revelatory. It was a moment that reinforced my belief in trusting the process and not being afraid to take bold risks.
Cooking with fire involves unique challenges. How do you manage the unpredictability of fire in your cooking process?
Managing fire is about understanding it on an intimate level. It’s a living element, constantly changing, and that’s what makes it so compelling. You cannot control fire like you control a gas stove; you have to work with and adapt to it. Over the years, I have learned to read the flames, to feel the heat, and to continually adjust my approach based on the temperament of the fire. It’s a dance, a deep relationship between the fire and the ingredient that requires respect and patience. The fire will often surprise you, and that’s when you must be most creative. It’s about embracing the unpredictability and seeing it as a strength rather than a limitation.
Looking back on your journey, what are some of the key lessons you have learned?
One of the biggest lessons I have learned is the importance of patience and respect for the process. Fire cooking forces you to slow down it demands your full attention and presence, and the journey is often more important than the destination. I’ve learned to value the beauty of simplicity and of sourcing the best produce. With fire, you don’t need to overcomplicate things—the best dishes often have the fewest ingredients. Finally, I’ve recognised that failure is an essential part of growth. There have been countless times when a dish didn’t turn out as planned, but each moment taught me something valuable and pushed me to improve.
What are your thoughts on current trends in the culinary world, particularly related to fire cooking?
There’s a growing appreciation for the authenticity that fire cooking brings, which is exciting to see. More chefs are starting to explore fire as a primary cooking method, leading to a renaissance of sorts in the culinary world. However, I think it’s vital that as we embrace these trends, that we don’t lose sight of the fundamentals. Fire cooking is not just about spectacle; it’s about a deep respect for the ingredients and the craft. It’s easy to get caught up in the theatrics, but at the end of the day, it’s the connection between the fire and the food that really matters.
As a leader in your field, where do you see the future of cooking with fire heading?
I see the future of fire cooking moving towards a greater focus on sustainability and a deeper connection to the land. There’s an opportunity to rediscover traditional methods and adapt them to modern sensibilities, with an emphasis on using locally sourced woods and ingredients. I believe that there is a lot of unexplored territory when it comes to the interplay between fire and different types of cuisine. The potential for innovation is boundless, but it will require a commitment to understanding and respecting the role of fire and the importance of ingredients. It’s about honouring the past and recognising what makes us uniquely human while continuing to push the boundaries of what’s possible.
Firedoor bookings open three months in advance. To book, head onto the Firedoor website on the first Wednesday of each month at midday and join the online queue to make a booking. The restaurant currently offers a five-course, daily changing menu. You can check out the restaurant’s Instagram to see the best dishes of the day.
