The Wind Up – Watch News #319

Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. With the dust still settling on the majesty that was Watches & Wonders 2025, you’d be forgiven for thinking new releases would be at a minimum, but that’s certainly not the case. Fresh off a series of grandstanding novelties, the world’s biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—have kept the good vibes rolling. In this week’s feature, we’ll highlight a range of new and exciting pieces from Arnold & Son, Raúl Pagès, and Armin Strom. Happy reading, gents, and have a great week ahead.

Armin Strom Orbit Purple Edition

• Brand: Armin Strom  
• Model: Orbit Purple Edition
• Reference: Ref. ST25-OR.01
• Diameter: 43.40mm
• Thickness: 12.60mm
• Movement: Calibre ASS20
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Water Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: CHF36,000 (Limited to 20 pieces)

For lovers of purple, the new Armin Strom Orbit Purple Edition is right up your alley. The Orbit is one of the maison’s many tales of incredible pioneering spirit. Steeped in innovation, this new take on the Orbit, which remains mechanically unchanged from its predecessor, has an on-demand date display, which can be activated via the pusher on the left side of the DLC-coated stainless steel case and read on the ceramic bezel.

I am a big fan of the larger size here, with the 43.4mm diameter perfectly suiting the more robust framework of the timepiece, particularly when referencing the DLC coating. The Orbit Purple Edition is a rather unconventional take on modern watchmaking, albeit done in the highest regard. Finishing is on par with the best of them, proportions are fair (edging towards the larger side of things), with the overall package very harmonious and in keeping with Armin Strom’s unique aesthetic.

Angelus Chronographe Télémètre

• Brand: Angelus
• Model: Chronographe Télémètre
• Reference: Ref. 0CHC.xx
• Diameter: 37mm
• Thickness: 9.25mm 
• Movement: Calibre A5000
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: CHF17,900 (Stainless steel; limited to 15 pieces); CHF32,300 (Gold, limited to 15 pieces in both rose dial or grey dial configurations)

This is epic. The new Angelus Chronographe Télémètre is what the world has been waiting for from the maison—a monopusher chronograph in steel or gold with some delectable dial colour options. If you ask me, this is precisely what Angelus needs to be doing more of. Everything about the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre speaks to me.

The textured dials, yes. The case size and proportions, yes and yes. The dial balance, yes. The crown and monopusher chronograph button, yes. The movement is exceptional. Absolutely exceptional. The timepiece is powered by the manually wound Calibre A5000, which features a column wheel and horizontal clutch, exposed through the caseback for us to all enjoy. What a brilliant piece.

Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11

• Brand: Arnold & Son
• Model: Constant Force Tourbillon 11
• Reference: Ref. 1FCBJ.E01A.C246J
• Diameter: 41.50mm
• Thickness: 13.70mm
• Material: Yellow gold
• Movement: Calibre A&S5219
• Power Reserve: 100 hours
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: CHF129,800 (Limited to 11 pieces)

Arnold & Son unveiled what I think is its most impressive timepiece yet. The Constant Force Tourbillon 11 is an inspired piece, drawing its heritage from the first tourbillon created by none other Abraham-Louis Breguet (which was based on John Arnold’s marine chronometre movement #11). What might look like a tourbillon on the dial side of the Constant Force Tourbillon 11 is actually the maison’s patented constant force tourbillon.

Flick the piece over, and that’s where you will see the tourbillon, along with one of the finest finished casebacks Arnold & Son has ever produced. I mean, wow. Bevelling, graining, mirror polishing, blued screws, sunken balance jewels; the works. Just superb.

Raúl Pagès RP2

• Brand: Raúl Pagès
• Model: RP2
• Diameter: 38.50mm
• Thickness: 11.50mm
• Movement: Calibre RP2
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: CHF89,000 (Limited to 50 pieces)

The Soberly Onyx is one of my all time favourite watches, so when Raúl Pagès announced his latest piece in the RP2, my interest was piqued immediately. The RP2 is a blend of modernity and traditional watchmaking, with a clean and very simple aesthetic opening the door for what is a showcase of visceral delights.

From the white agate dial to the ornate architectural hands to the case finishing, you can tell that said watchmaker really went to town on this piece, at least from the externals. But the real play here is the movement. The calibre RP2 is exquisite. Finished to the nth degree, as much as the RP2 talks the talk, it too walks the walk. It features a counterweighted lever, the same one you would typically find in pocket watches, which enhances the stability of the escapement. Amongst other things, every component has been tended to by hand in the most meticulous of manners. Not cheap, but mighty in every respect of the word.