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Welcome to the next edition of your watch news go-to, The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, and what a week it has been! Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world’s biggest and brightest watchmakers, there were a few surprise announcements that landed this week.
In this latest instalment, we’ll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including pieces from the likes of Cartier and Greubel Forsey, alongside a very fun release from Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead.
Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Tank Américaine Platinum
- Reference: Ref. CRWGTA0367
- Diameter: 44.40mm
- Thickness: 8.60mm
- Material: Platinum
- Movement: Calibre 1899 MC
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: €26,400 (Limited to 120 pieces)
Made for the European market in a limited run of only 120 pieces, the new Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum pairs a platinum case with an abstract blue dial. The bold flat edges of the platinum case open the door to a very interesting geometric dial made with a technique known as camaïeu, complete with different shades of blue and linear patterns.
It’s a stellar throwback to the design codes of yesteryear, and Cartier has made the bold decision to release the latest piece in three case sizes (Mini, Small, Medium and Large). The first three are powered by quartz with only the Large Medium copping a mechanical movement.
This art deco look is the perfect play for the Tank Américaine’s aesthetic, and is topped off by the eight-sided crown set with a faceted ruby. For lovers of Art Deco, this timepiece has all the hallmarks you’d expect for a period piece, right down to the alternating shades of blue on the dial.
Importantly, Cartier has also dropped the signature railway minutes track, ensuring the piece conforms to the streamlined, minimalist geometric language. The Cartier Tank Américaine Platinum’s architectural look is on full display here, and will be available throughout Europe only.
Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain
- Brand: Greubel Forsey
- Model: Balancier Contemporain
- Diameter: 39.60mm
- Thickness: 12.25mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- Movement: Balancier Contemporain
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: CHF220,000 (Limited to 33 pieces)
This week, we officially bid farewell to the highly revered but near-impossible-to-buy Balancier Contemporain from Greubel Forsey. Not one to go out without a bang, the watchmaker has issued one final edition, and it is a stone-cold stunner. The 33-piece stainless steel limited edition Balancier Contemporain is the last we’ll see of the esteemed collection and remains very in keeping with the independent watchmaker’s iconic aesthetic.
The new timepiece follows the exact dimensions of the original 2019 Balancier Contemporain, measuring a slim 39.6mm in diameter and just 12.25mm in height. Contrasting previous releases, however, the final edition takes things in a new direction material-wise.
The stainless steel model marks a slightly different change of tack for Greubel Forsey, a sentiment that is matched by the introduction of a sunburst blue finish on the hour and minute displays. Finishing is, of course, second to none. Black-polishing, laser-engraved text, white gold screws, blue-treated German silver, the Balancier Contemporain has it all and then some. A finale of epic proportions.
Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
- Brand: Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
- Model: Time Eater Tourbillon
- Reference: Ref. 89241AA9xx
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 12.65mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- Movement: Calibre BCP T02
- Power Reserve: 100 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 metres
- Price: CHF19,900 (Limited to 78 pieces in green, 28 pieces in blue)
From Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, we have the final Time Eater variant in the Time Eater Tourbillon. The new timepiece still carries its monster-inspired visuals, but with the addition of a complication, the Time Eater Tourbillon makes for a more interesting package from a watchmaking perspective.
From the rolling eye to the gaping mouth that houses the tourbillon, the Time Eater Tourbillon is anything but conventional. And while it is a polarising piece that won’t have mass appeal, it’s hard to argue just how cool and creative it is.
Biver Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series
- Brand: Biver
- Model: Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 13.70mm
- Material: Titanium; Titanium and rose gold
- Movement: Calibre JCB.001-B
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 metres
- Price: CHF475,000
New from Biver is the Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series. In this new series of super high end watches, we have two distinct models, one in titanium and the other in titanium and rose gold. Both models look rather simple, but as always, there is more to them than meets the eye.
The Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series houses a tourbillon and a minute repeater. This kind of very complicated watchmaking is often unheard of outside of the Holy Trinity and its close peers, but in partnership with Le Cercle des Horlogers, Biver was able to produce this micro-masterpiece. Not bad for half a million.
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