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Welcome to the next edition of your watch news go-to, The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, and what a week it has been! Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world’s biggest and brightest watchmakers, there were a few surprise announcements that landed this week. In this latest instalment, we’ve got a handful of new and exciting watches, including pieces from OMEGA, Bell & Ross and Ulysse Nardin. Enjoy the read, fellas, and have a fantastic week ahead.
Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort
- Brand: Ulysse Nardin
- Model: Blast Free Wheel Maillechort
- Reference: 1760-401LE-4A-MAIL/3A
- Diameter: 45mm
- Thickness: 12.40mm
- Material: White gold
- Movement: Calibre UN-176
- Power Reserve: 7 days
- Price: USD126,600 (Limited to 50 pieces)
Ulysse Nardin is no stranger to something out of the box and the new Blast Free Wheel Maillechort doesn’t disappoint. The 45mm white gold model, which continues the same familiar design language we first saw on the 2018 Executive Tourbillon Skeleton Free Wheel, features a suite of sharp edges offset by a fusion of satin and polished finishes.
This time around, Ulysse Nardin has opted for a vintage-style glass box design that provides unimpeded views of the stunning skeletonised dial. The exposed mechanics and inner-workings of the timepiece are undoubtedly its best features, so it makes perfect sense that UN put these front and centre. Moreover, the open sapphire caseback gives you a further glimpse at the Maillechort (or German Silver) plate that anchors the dial side.
The Free Wheel encompasses all that we know and love from one of Ulysse Nardin’s most theatrical timepieces; a constant force mechanism within a tourbillon, exposed and elevated parts, a synoptic of drama. With the Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort, you have all this and more with a beautiful traditional grained plate in German silver. The result is something that is as aesthetically pleasing as it is mechanically spectacular.
OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M
- Brand: OMEGA
- Model: Seamaster Diver 300M
- Reference: 21030422001018
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 13.80mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- Movement: Calibre 8806
- Power Reserve: 55 hours
- Price: AUD$10,950
OMEGA’s no-date Seamaster Diver 300M has been primed and prepped for a long summer of fun with a new reference. Sporting a yellow seconds hand, orange three-quarter hour markers and a matching rubber strap, the Seamaster Diver 300M is a whole bag of fun, but make no mistake, this is not simply a rehash of an old favourite.
For the new no-date model, OMEGA has boldly returned to an aluminium bezel and dial design., contrasting the styles of previous years. For the majority of last year, OMEGA toyed with new design iterations and combinations, releasing Seamaster models in steel with black or silver dials, titanium and bronze-gold with green dial and then, much to the delight of fans, a full bronze-gold option with a burgundy bezel.
For this bold and vibrant new Seamaster, a return to the classic aluminium dial and bezel format feels like some sort of homecoming, and it doesn’t stop there. This release also features the classic 42mm case size, lyre-shaped lugs and the conical helium escape valve at 10 o’clock. I personally feel that the aesthetic of the no-date Seamaster Diver 300M, like the no-date Submariner, is well befitting of a piece of this nature. And now with dashes of orange, the Seamaster Diver 300M is like a whole new watch. Love it.
Franck Muller #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard Beach
- Brand: Franck Muller
- Model: #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard Beach
- Reference: V 41 SC DT BEACH FR2
- Diameter: 41mm
- Thickness: 12.20mm
- Material: Glass fibre composite
- Movement: Calibre 2536-SCDT2H
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Price: USD14,700 (Limited to 300 pieces in each colour)
There are a lot of question marks surrounding the maison of Franck Muller, but something that absolutely cannot be overstated is the watchmaker’s disposition and propensity to push the boundaries of conventional watchmaking. The brand’s latest piece, the #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard Beach, comes in three distinct colour ways in a glass fibre composite case and feature a relief of titular rabbits.
Building on a 2023 collaboration that saw the launch of a limited-edition #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard timepiece, Franck Muller and #FR2’s triumphant return is designed to celebrate the spirit of summer. As our own Rob Edwards noted in his first look, are certainly playful in nature, but there is serious watchcraft on display.
The iconic tonneau-shaped Vanguard case has been rendered in a composite of glass and fibre that combines lightness of weight with robust construction. Meanwhile, the repositioning of the date window from the 6 o’clock position to 2 o’clock makes for an interesting visual dynamic, where it forms a sun shining down on the rabbits at the centre of the scene.
This fun take on the watchmaking arts is further emphasised by the way each scene springs to life after dark, thanks to the watches’ liberal use of Super-Luminova across their dials and skeletonised obelisk hands. Plus, the watches’ graphic nylon straps, printed with bold streetwear-inspired elements, act as the final flourish, while the leather backing ensures maximum comfort for the wearer throughout the day. Fun and not-so-serious, but rather pricey; all things considered.
Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic
- Brand: Bell & Ross
- Model: BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic
- Reference: BR05A-PH-SK-CE/SCE
- Diameter: 41mm
- Thickness: 11.20mm
- Material: Ceramic
- Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.322-1
- Power Reserve: 54 hours
- Price: AUD$15,700 (Limited to 500 pieces)
Rounding out this edition of The Wind Up is the latest BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic from Bell & Ross. Sporting a black ceramic case with matching bracelet (also available on a black textured rubber strap), the BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic is a serious bit of kit from the unique maison.
Bearing all the hallmarks of the regular production BR-05 Skeleton Ceramic, this model measures in at 41mm in diameter and boasts a thickness of 11.2mm. Of course, the timepiece is also water-resistant to 100 metres, courtesy of a robust screw-down crown with lateral guards and a flat sapphire crystal; again a nod to the steel edition. Its dark aesthetic, monochromatic look and phantom-like features make for a spectacularly stealthy package. I would be remiss to say that the price is a bit out of touch, but let’s remember that this is a full ceramic case and bracelet. Cool but expensive.
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