When Kim Jones drops a new collection, the fashion world takes note and this year, the Dior artistic director didn’t miss a beat. Taking to Paris Fashion Week, Jones unveiled a first look at the new Dior Winter 2023-24 men’s collection, a stunning assortment of pieces directly inspired by the great rivers of London and Paris.
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According to the designer, the Thames and Seine Rivers provided the main influence for the collection, most notably through the flow of the water, its movement, fluidity and reflections. Jones revealed that these themes were used to create a collection that is a homage to legendary French designer and youngest couturier in history, Yves Saint Laurent and his time at Dior.
“The cycle of a fashion house is about regeneration and rejuvenation,” Jones said. “There is always something of the past in the present and future, and Dior is no different. In this collection, we wanted to look at the regeneration of the House after the death of Monsieur Dior.”
In terms of the show itself, the Dior Winter 2023-24 reveal was certainly one of the most star-studded Paris Men’s Fashion Week events yet. Icons like Naomi Campbell were in attendance, alongside BTS star Jimin, David & Cruz Beckham, The White Lotus star Adam Dimarco, GoT star Gwendoline Christie and Élite star Manu Rios, all of which were dressed in Dior.
In true Jones style, the show exhibited minimalist decor, highlighted only by screens positioned around the runway, which was gradually illuminated as the models advanced to a musical performance by Max Richter. And that’s where the magic of Dior was in full bloom.
The show kicked off with a lineup of asymmetric knitwear with beaded details in an olive and grey colour palette that is punctuated by yellow and teal. In a fitting nod to the past, some garments were taken directly from the Dior archive and rearranged for a new era.
The sailor top from the marine ensemble designed by Christian Dior’s successor is now loosened in a cavalry twill and also becomes an elongated fisherman’s smock. Jones continued to channel the nautical theme with an exploration of pearls, along with fishermen-style knits, patent leather outerwear and a chic version of flood pants with shortened inseams.
Of course, no Dior show would be complete without an expansive suiting display and Jones didn’t disappoint. The Men’s 2023-24 Winter Collection debuted a series of sharp tailoring components, highlighted by luxurious knits. Each piece features unique detailing including cinched biceps, polka dots, animal prints and mélange wools, while traditional vernacular knits were altered through a sculptural approach.
Looking at the collection as a whole, it’s easy to see where Jones has pulled his inspiration and for the most part, it works flawlessly. The fisherman-inspired pieces appear effortlessly versatile, while the more classic tailoring elements work to continue Dior’s fabled connection to the traditional process. If Paris Fashion Week is anything to go by, Dior is in for an enormous year. The full show is available to view here