Rolex oyster perpetual celebration

Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 1

Watches & Wonders is back! Easily watchmaking’s biggest and best event, Watches & Wonders 2023 is already gearing up to be the greatest ever. Set in Geneva, Watches & Wonders runs from the 27th of March to the 2nd of April. Over the course of the week, some of the world’s most well-known watchmakers will feature their latest and greatest. We can expect and have already seen some pieces of magnificence from the likes of Rolex, Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor and Vacheron Constantin.

Here, we’ll be following the prior day’s events, highlighting some of the most interesting, notable and impressive pieces. So, hang on and enjoy the wild ride that is Watches & Wonders 2023!

Check out more of the best from Watches & Wonders 2023 below:
Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 2
Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 3
Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 4
Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 5

Chopard alpine eagle 41 xps

Image: Chopard

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

Chopard opened the show with one of the coolest pieces by far, the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS. This particular model features a stunning “Monte Rosa Pink” dial encased in the very recognisable Alpine Eagle case construct. The pop of the dial is really complemented by the cool look of the stainless steel case and bracelet.

It’s an ultra-thin affair, with the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS’ dimensions really deserving a second look. Its movement, the supremely practical calibre L.U.C 96.40-L measures a paper-thin 3.3mm in thickness, a testament to Chopard’s watchmaking prowess. The entire package measures only 8mm in thickness — outstanding. Side note: this is only the second Chopard-manufactured movement to be granted a Geneva Seal.

Brand: Chopard
Model: Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Reference Number: 298623-3001
Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: L.U.C 96.40-L
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Price: €24,400

Bell ross br x5 carbon orange

Image: Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange

Bell & Ross has ushered a new generation of the BR 05 with the BR-X5 Carbon Orange. A bold, masculine and completely endearing design resolutely places the BR-X5 Carbon Orange in the realm of iconicity for the brand. The blend of modern materials and avantgarde design makes for a scintillating and thoroughly intriguing package.

The distinct combination of orange against the carbon and titanium case gives the wearer heightened levels of lightness and robustness, all the while retaining Bell & Ross’ unique approach to its case architecture. The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange is a modern piece that pays tribute the brand’s ability to recreate and reinvent itself.

Brand: Bell & Ross
Model: BR-X5 Carbon Orange
Reference Number: BRX5R-BO-TC/SRB
Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: BR-CAL.323.
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Price: AUD$17,000

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Patek philippe 6007g calatravas 1200x900 1

Image: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe 6007G Calatravas

Patek Philippe has unveiled a trio of funky and sporty-looking Calatravas. These new references are as dynamic as they are cool and come in three unique colourways. There is a blue, a red and a yellow model, with each reference holding its own as a distinctly different yet very similar timepiece.

Each model is encased in white gold, with each piece being powered by the automatic calibre 26-330 S C. The centre feature on each piece is that “carbon” embossed pattern in the middle of the dial, which is accentuated by the similarly stylised strap. These are some very contemporary and very un-Patek Pateks. So cool!

Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: 6007G Calatrava
Reference Number: 6007G-0x
Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: 26-330 S C
Power Reserve: 35 hours
Price: Price on request

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U boat capsoil doppiotempo

Image: U-BOAT

U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo

Next up is the ultra-cool U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo. Measuring in at 55mm, the U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo is going to be one of the biggest watches of Watches & Wonders 2023, but with its distinct design cues it’s also going to be one of the most involving. It features a dual-time function thanks to the internal rotating bezel with an “Oil Immersion” Concept, along with a case filled with an oil bath.

The case is covered in black DLC, with this black theme extending to the dial which is offset by beige-coloured indexes and numbers. The ones placed in red lie in the internal black bezel and are used for the dual-time function of the U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo. Very cool stuff from U-BOAT.

Brand: U-BOAT
Model: Capsoil Doppiotempo
Reference Number: 9673
Diameter: 55mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Price: TBC

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Cartier prive tank normale

Image: Cartier

Cartier Privé Tank Normale

Cartier is on a serious roll, with the new Privé Tank Normale collection entering the foray at Watches & Wonders 2023. Based on the 1917 original, the Privé Tank Normale collection features four new models, two yellow gold models (one on a brown leather strap, one on a matching bracelet), and two platinum models (one on a black leather strap, one on a matching bracelet). There are also openworked models, all of which are absolutely outstanding.

What Cartier presented at Watches & Wonders 2023 are timepieces that exemplify that the maison represents in modern watchmaking. The new models all carry with them the quintessential qualities that make a Cartier well, a Cartier. Beautiful lines, understated yet bold architecture and design virtues that make it as relevant now as it was in 1917. Supreme watchmaking.

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Iwcs new ingenieur models

Image: IWC

IWC’s New Ingenieur Models

IWC has refreshed its most wearable line with four new models. The Ingeniuer collection was introduced in 1955, and now in its latest references we have some incredible new models with some new colour ways. Three new steel models were introduced, along with a titanium model. Each model has a distinct “grid” pattern that helps make the most of the four different-coloured dials. From a stunning aqua to the standard black and white, as well as a grey dial colour for the titanium timepiece, there is definitely something for everyone.

These new Ingenieur models are all more than capable of standing with the best of them. This is perhaps best represented with the integration of IWC’s in-house 32111 calibre. We’re going to go out on a limb here and say that these new Ingenieur models will reign supreme as some of IWC’s most popular models this year.

Brand: IWC
Model: Ingenieur Automatic 40
Reference Number: IW32890x
Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: 32111
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Price: AUD$17,300 (stainless steel); AUD$21,700 (titanium)

Rolex does what rolex does best

Image: Rolex

Rolex Does What Rolex Does Best

Rolex absolutely went all out for Watches & Wonders 2023. We have some brand new Daytona models, along with an epic platinum Daytona with an open sapphire caseback, new diamond Day-Dates, a new Explorer in 40mm, some new GMT-Master II models, a new Yacht-Master 42 and a new Sky-Dweller.

But perhaps the most surprising is the new Oyster Perpetual. Rolex opted to use a new dial decoration aptly named “Celebration”, with the new motif available in all new Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 models. As polarising as it is, this new colourful dial pattern is as cool as it is unexpected.

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Dimitri Tsilioris
Contributor

Mr Dimitri Tsilioris

Dimitri Tsilioris is a watch enthusiast and founder of watch blog, Haulogerie. From his daily updates on his Instagram page (@haulogerie), to his constant and borderline excessive pursuit of the perfect watch, Dimitri lives and breathes horology. A passion that only begun a few short years ago, he has embroiled himself in the intricate world of tiny mechanisms and astronomical prices. The endless hunt of the perfect watch to satisfy his overarching criterion; aesthetically captivating and mechanically intriguing.