Patek Philippe’s First New Collection in 25 Years Squares Up

• Patek Philippe has released the Cubitus Collection with three inaugural models.
• The models are priced from USD$41,250 (AUD$61,600) to USD$88,380 (AUD$132,000)
• The collection comprises one technical model in platinum, one two-tone model in steel and rose gold, and one in steel.
• The Cubitus Collection is available from retailers from October 18.

Cue the Huey Lewis, we’ve got news. At a private launch event in Munich, Patek Philippe officially unveiled the Cubitus Collection, the revered watchmaker’s first new model lineup in 25 years. Comprising three distinct references characterised by a very un-Patek 45mm square case design, the latest Cubitus Collection sees the Geneva-based business slide further into the sports watch category, and not everyone is happy about it.

The Story So Far

Admittedly, the latest release does not come out of the blue. Rumours of the Cubitus launch have been circling since as early as 2021, when eagle-eye watch fans discovered a trademark had been filed for the name. With that reveal, speculation mounted that Patek Philippe was looking to introduce a new range, and it wasn’t long before references to the Cubitus began regularly appearing on watch forums and Instagram pages in the lead-up to the October 17 Munich showcase. Then came a supposed leak.

An advertisement in Fortune Magazine gave a first brief glimpse at the new watch, sending the watch community into a frenzy and spurring anxiety (presumably) in the hearts of Patek Philippe retailers worldwide. The jury is still out on whether the ‘leak’ was a genuine accident or just a well-timed marketing stunt, but it matters little now. In front of an intimate crowd of guests, Patek Philippe boss Thierry Stern officially unveiled the Cubitus Collection, an innovation he revealed had been in the works for up to four years.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection comprises three models, each featuring a new square-shaped case with rounded corners and a dial adorned with horizontal relief embossing. The technical model, Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases, Ref. 5822P-001 arrives in a platinum case and is powered by an all-new movement with instantaneous displays. The two remaining models feature case materials in two-tone steel and rose gold with a blue sunburst dial and steel with an olive-green sunburst dial, respectively.

The brand has borrowed much of the design language fans know and love from the Nautilus, right down to the brushed and polished surfaces, bracelet, and dial, making it instantly recognisable despite its obvious geometric differences.

All three models measure 45mm diagonally with the two time and date references boasting a thickness of 8.3mm, while the complicated model stands at 9.6mm. Considering how much Patek has thrown into these releases, particularly Ref. 5822P-001, the slimline design is a feat that deserves recognition. The diameter, on the other hand, could be a deal-breaker for some fans.

At 45mm, the Cubitus is more than 3mm larger than the Cartier’s Large Santos model, which at 41.9mm can appear comically large on an average-sized wrist. Additionally, square proportions tend to make a timepiece wear larger, which in this case, is not ideal. Stranger still is Patek Philippe’s decision to fit this behemoth of a watch with ultra-slim movement (more on that later). Sure, it keeps the profile thin, but I would hazard a guess that anyone willing to fork out thousands for a 45mm big boy probably isn’t too concerned with how tight it clings to the wrist.

Movements

The Nautilus references continue on the inside for the time and date models, which are powered by the same calibre 26-330 S C self-winding mechanical movement that we saw on the Tiffany Nautilus 5711/1A-018 and Aquanaut Luce 5268/200R-010. The ultra-thin movement, which measures in at just 3.3mm, dishes up an admirable-for-its-size 45 hours of power reserve and is visible through the timepiece’s sapphire caseback. It’s nothing to write home about when compared with Patek’s other models, however, things take a step up on the complicated side.

To highlight the Ref. 5822P-001’s bevy of movements, Patek Philippe has introduced a new calibre 240 PS CI J LU self-winding movement. Essentially a revised take on the calibre 240 that famously featured a 22K gold off-centre mini-rotor, this movement highlights the “grand date” function by integrating a new instantaneous-jump calendar mechanism in a double aperture. This functionality also flows through to the day and moon-phase indications, via a large lever that drives the 24-hour wheel.

According to Patek Philippe, six new patents were filed for the calibre 240 PS CI J LU self-winding movement, ranging from a new tangential brake and dual-lever correction system to a flexible day corrector and a new mechanism for positioning the disk indications. In simple terms, there is a lot going on here, and some have argued that it could very well be too much.

Dial Designs

When the official announcement hit social media, many watch fans were quick to criticise the dial design of the Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases model. Much of the discussion centred around the asymmetrical design, which while not unusual for Patek, does feel inherently busy and not the refined language that we’re used to seeing from the Geneva icon. Of course, aesthetics are entirely subjective and whether the design of the complicated model is to your liking is a matter of personal taste. The general consensus, however, appears to favour the Ref. 5821/1A-001.

This stainless steel model’s stunning green dial is far more understated and characteristic of the Patek Philippe style. Refined and elegant, this model will undoubtedly prove to be a real winner in the eyes of fans—at least, if social media is anything to go by.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Price and Availability

All three Patek Philippe Cubitus models are available to purchase from October 18 at boutiques globally. The Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases Ref. 5822P-001 is priced at USD$88,378 (AUD$132,000), while the Cubitus Ref. 5821/1AR-001 and Ref. 5821/1A-001 are priced at USD$41,250 (AUD$61,600) and USD$61,280 (AUD$91,400), respectively.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases

• Brand: Patek Philippe
• Model: Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases
• Reference: Ref. 5822P-001
• Diameter: 45mm
• Thickness: 9.6mm
• Movement: Calibre 240 PS CI J LU self-winding movement
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Water-Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: USD$88,378 (AUD$132,000)

Patek Philippe Cubitus

• Brand: Patek Philippe
• Model: Cubitus
• Reference: Ref. 5821/1AR-001 / Ref. 5821/1A-001
• Diameter: 45mm
• Thickness: 8.3mm
• Movement: Calibre 26-330 S C Self-winding mechanical movement
• Power Reserve: 45 hours
• Water-Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: USD$41,250 (AUD$61,600) / USD$61,280 (AUD$91,400)