Welcome to the next edition of The Wind Up, our regular round up of all the latest watch releases of the past week. In this week’s instalment, TAG Heuer drops a stunning new Blue Panda dial chronograph, Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to Chinese art, Longines goes all-in on aviation design and Mido revives a decompression icon.
TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph “Blue Panda”
- Brand: TAG Heuer
- Model: Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph “Blue Panda”
- Reference: CBS5013.FC6572
- Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: TH20-09
- Water-Resistance: 100m
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Price: €25,200 (Limited to 50 pieces)
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is a limited-edition timepiece available only in Europe. It features a striking white-and-blue dial with a flying tourbillon at six o’clock, housed in the brand’s signature Glassbox case. The 42mm stainless steel watch combines a vintage-inspired design with modern elements, such as a highly domed sapphire crystal and a contrasting red chronograph seconds hand. Powered by the in-house TH20-09 movement, it offers a 65-hour power reserve and is priced at €25,200.
This model stands out for its balanced dial layout, including blue sub-dials and a symmetrical design. Despite its industrial execution, the movement is well-decorated with striping and an open-worked rotor, forming the TAG Heuer shield. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” represents an affordable entry into the world of tourbillon watches, blending classic aesthetics with contemporary craftsmanship. Limited to just 50 pieces, it is an appealing option for collectors seeking a blend of tradition and innovation.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time and Spirit Flyback
Longines has expanded its Spirit Collection with several new models, headlined by the Titanium Zulu Time 39mm. This GMT watch, crafted from Grade 5 titanium, features a more compact size, appealing to those who prefer a smaller, lighter timepiece. The Zulu Time retains its dual-time functionality, powered by the COSC-certified L844.4 movement, and features a rotating bezel with a ceramic insert.
In addition to the Zulu Time, Longines introduced a new 42mm Flyback Chronograph in the Spirit Collection. This model boasts a bicompax dial layout and utilises a column-wheel chronograph movement. The Flyback function enhances its utility, allowing the wearer to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push. Both watches emphasise Longines’ commitment to blending historical design cues with modern technology, making them versatile options for enthusiasts.
Longines Spirit Flyback
- Brand: Longines
- Model: Spirit Flyback
- Reference: Ref. L3.821.5.53.2 / Ref. L3.821.5.59.2
- Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Exclusive column-wheel Calibre L791.4
- Water-Resistance: 100 metres
- Power Reserve: 68 hours
- Price: AUD$10,150
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
- Brand: Longines
- Model: Spirit Zulu Time
- Reference: L3.802.1.53.6
- Diameter: 39mm
- Movement: Longines L844.4
- Water-Resistance: 100m
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: AUD$6,650
Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961
- Brand: Mido
- Model: Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961
- Reference: M026.807.33.051.00
- Diameter: 40.50mm
- Movement: Calibre 80
- Water-Resistance: 200m
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Price: AUD$2,225 (Limited to 1,961 pieces)
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition in Black PVD is a tribute to Mido’s 1961 dive watch, which was the first of its kind to feature a decompression timer. This modern iteration updates the classic design with a sleek black PVD coating, while preserving the original’s functionality and aesthetic. The watch boasts a robust stainless steel case, a unidirectional bezel with a decompression scale, and a clear, legible dial designed for ease of use underwater. Limited to just 1,961 pieces, this edition combines vintage charm with contemporary durability.
This special edition watch reflects Mido’s commitment to both historical reverence and modern innovation. It offers a sophisticated, yet practical tool for divers, with its black PVD finish giving it a contemporary edge. The decompression timer remains a key feature, echoing the original 1961 model’s functionality. The limited production run ensures exclusivity, making it a sought-after piece for collectors and diving enthusiasts alike.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection
Vacheron Constantin has paid tribute to ancient Chinese culture with its latest Métiers d’Art collection. The new range features two interpretations of the traditional ‘Seawater Cliff’ motif, presented on either 18K pink or white gold. According to Vacheron Constantin, the designs were created in collaboration with Mr. Song, the former associate research librarian of the Palace Museum, who worked extensively to ensure historical accuracy and cultural authenticity.
For reference, the ‘Seawater Cliff’ motif is commonly seen in Chinese architectural elements, furniture and porcelain, as well as on imperial clothing and the aptly-named ‘dragon’ robes. These embroidered silk ceremonial garments conveyed distinctive symbolism according to their motifs.
“The Vacheron Constantin design department wanted to explore traditional Chinese symbolism for this new Métiers d’Art series,” said Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director at Vacheron Constantin. “For the dial of the Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Moonlight Slivers watch, the aim was to achieve a depth effect on a monochrome base. Engraving is the only way to achieve this kind of result, with recessed enamelled and gem set parts and others in relief to accentuate the 3D effect, which is achieved here using a ‘flat wash’ uniform layer of paint in a single colour.
Inside each of the 38mm models, you’ll find the Calibre 2460 driving central hours and minutes hands. This movement boasts a stellar 40-hour power reserve, complete with a 22K gold rotor and an oscillating weight delicately engraved with the waves and tides motif. Most impressive of all is the dial, which is constructed using cloisonné enamelling, a technique that originated in China. According to the maison, 220 gold wires were used to delineate the enamelling fields forming the “Seawater Cliff” motif, a process that required more than 50 hours of work per dial. In a word, the new Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art timepieces are incredible.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Eternal Flow
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Eternal flow
- Reference: Ref. 2400A/000R-H024 / Ref. 2400A/000G-H023
- Movement: Calibre 2460
- Diameter: 38mm
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Availability: Limited to 15 pieces each
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Moonlight Slivers
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Moonlight slivers
- Reference: Ref. 2405A/000R-H022 / Ref. 2405A/000G-H021
- Movement: Calibre 2460
- Diameter: 38mm
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Availability: Limited to 15 pieces each
Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer
- Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
- Model: Stargazer
- Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Calibre 80K.2201
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
The Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer is a unique astronomical tourbillon watch that stands out in the world of independent watchmaking. This innovative timepiece features a double-sided design, with the front displaying a captivating celestial map that tracks the phases of the moon, while the back reveals a stunning tourbillon mechanism. The watch combines advanced technical features with a visually striking aesthetic, showcasing Konstantin Chaykin’s skill in merging horology with astronomical artistry.
This limited-edition watch emphasizes both form and function, offering a sophisticated blend of astronomical complications and high-end craftsmanship. The double-sided design allows for a comprehensive view of both the moon phases and the intricate tourbillon, making it a standout piece for collectors and enthusiasts of independent watchmaking. The Stargazer reflects Chaykin’s innovative approach to watch design, positioning it as a distinctive and desirable addition to any serious collection.
