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Cartier has long been one of the true authorities regarding the concept of elegance. Each year, the brand unveils new products that either expand, elevate, or refine what we think of when it comes to that word.
It’s a constant evolution that can happen in bursts or over the course of decades, and at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Cartier once again revealed a timepiece that pushed that process forward. It certainly made me sit up and take notice, and I know I’m not alone. The watch in question is the new Tank à Guichets, arriving as part of the Cartier Privé collection, which showcases limited-edition and highly sought creations. After spending a morning wearing two of its four incarnations, I think I love it.
For clarity, the Tank à Guichets’ four references consist of a platinum case paired with a burgundy alligator leather strap, a rose gold model with a strap of dark grey alligator leather, a yellow gold incarnation accompanied by a green alligator leather strap, and a very special limited-edition platinum release with an alligator leather strap in black.
I was fortunate enough to spend some time with the last two of these four, so let’s discuss what they’re all about and explore how they build on the Cartier legacy.
A Classic in a New Form
Metamorphosis is the theme of Cartier’s releases at this year’s Watches and Wonders, and the two versions of the Tank à Guichets I had the pleasure of wearing couldn’t have embodied it more perfectly.
In the first case, we have the yellow gold edition with that green alligator leather strap. This follows a design that Cartier launched all the way back in 1928, but it’s not just a mere recreation of that original piece. It’s an evolution.
To start with, it packs a calibre that was specifically developed for this incarnation. The 9755 MC hand-wound movement with jumping hours and dragging minutes keeps this highly desirable and outside-the-box timepiece on track.
Next, the modern version of the Tank à Guichets has an enlarged minute window that’s been shifted down the dial — or at least it certainly looks that way to me. This gives the watch a greater sense of balance and is an undeniable aesthetic upgrade over the original.
Finally, there’s a noticeable improvement around the crown at the 12 o’clock position. The cradle carved out of the case to hold said crown appears to offer a more snug fit than the original model did, while the case overall, including its edges and lugs, looks to have benefitted from some subtle but effective refinement.
Long story short, the original Tank à Guichets was a thing of beauty, but the new incarnation is clearly superior.
The Next Stage of Metamorphosis
Next, we have a bit of a curve ball. In the natural world from which Cartier draws so much of its inspiration, you never know when something will grow, evolve, or develop in a way that’s a little off-kilter or askew.
Cartier’s 200-piece platinum incarnation of the Tank à Guichets embodies this concept to a T by going one step further in the evolution of the Tank line. It does so by placing the classic à Guichets apertures at an angle; a small tweak, certainly, but one that completely changes the feeling the watch evokes.
To my eyes, it transforms the aesthetic from one that’s delightfully vintage into something more futuristic. If you were to suggest that it’s reminiscent of a certain kind of retrofuturism, I wouldn’t argue with you. Regardless, it’s a step away from the traditional towards something exciting.
Wearing Cartier’s Tank à Guichets
Having discussed how these compelling watches embody the concept of metamorphosis, the most important question is, how does it feel to strap either of them onto your wrist? The answer: phenomenal. The level of craftsmanship here is just exceptional and I confess that I love the way these watches seem to combine elements of the past, present, and future all in one.
As mentioned, the yellow gold model is a little more traditional than the limited-edition platinum, but let’s be honest: they’re both unusual and forward-looking watches that will turn heads anywhere you wear them. With dimensions of 37.6 x 24.8 mm and a height of just 6 mm, the cases of both à Guichets are quite small and feel correspondingly light when worn. However, the quality of the materials and the level of craftsmanship deployed to bring them to life is undeniable.
Ultimately, placing either one of these timepieces on your wrist is akin to what I imagine a lottery win feels like. Sadly, my winnings were confiscated by the Lottery Office (aka Cartier) all too soon. I’m appealing the decision and hope to be reunited with them before too long.
