The Wind Up: TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Sport Makes Every Day Feel Like Race Day

Greetings, watch lovers. Welcome to another instalment of The Wind Up, Man of Many’s weekly wrap detailing the horological encounters, events, and releases that have caught our attention over the past seven days. I’m Rob (someone who can’t help but make an impulse Seiko purchase as I’m on my way to pick up this week’s On the Wrist inclusions from TAG Heuer’s Sydney boutique), and it’s my pleasure to join you once again.

As you may have guessed from my confession above, this week I’ve had four of TAG’s new Carrera Chronograph Sport releases at my disposal (that’s almost the full range, with the only exception being the number with the brown rally strap). These are watches that are about as embedded in motorsports as it’s possible to get, but do they build on the brand’s strong work over recent years, or are they a throwback to a more challenging time for the brand? Read on to find out. Below you’ll also find my thoughts on the new Hublot collaboration with Jeff Koons (I saw these references in the flesh at an event on Friday night, and I have some thoughts), as well as a new release from our friends at Ressence, the Rolex Perpetual Padellone, of course, and more.

As always, there’s no time like the present and not a second to waste, so let’s crack on with the latest edition of Man of Many’s The Wind Up.

On the Wrist: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport

What does it take to create the ultimate motorsport watch? That’s the question TAG Heuer’s been asking for decades now, and it’s front and centre with this new squad of Carrera Chronograph Sport releases.

These watches employ a technical approach to TAG’s chronograph aesthetic that has them looking like they sit somewhere between the brand’s Formula 1 Chronograph releases and the glassbox Carreras of the last several years. They’re all business and have a feel that would be right at home if released in the ‘80s. That said, they’re also decidedly modern in terms of their proportions.

Each of these watches features a svelte new case, with the previous model’s 44-mm diameter reduced to a far more manageable 42 mm, a lug-to-lug reduction from 49.8mm to 48.6mm, and 1.31 mm shaved off the thickness. These changes make a huge difference on the wrist, resulting in a watch that’s a serious piece of track-ready gear and supremely wearable at the same time.

They’re easy on the eye, too, with four colourways across five references.

First, we have the blue dial with sunray brushed finish, silver counters, and grey minute markings, as well as blue lacquer on the pushers, and a blue ceramic bezel. This one is also available with the perforated brown calfskin leather strap I referenced at the top, though, as mentioned, I didn’t get to try it in person. The blue is a strong offering, although it’s the one I’d be least likely to go for. There’s nothing wrong with it, I’m just less drawn to blue watches at this stage, so I find the other colours more interesting.

Second, there’s the classic panda. This is an undeniable racing icon, with its black counters set against a silver dial, it grew on me during my time with the watches, to the point where it was one I frequently reached for, second only to the black opalin dial (more on that in a moment).

The understated, metallic cool of its aesthetic is the kind of look that doesn’t scream and shout, but rather emulates the steely gaze and quiet determination of a consummate professional. More Niki Lauda, less James Hunt.

Third, TAG has opted to include a teal green finish. This was my favourite when I first saw photos of the range, and I remain fond of it, having opted to wear it with some frequency during my time with the watches. However, its position at the head of the class was ultimately overcome once all four colours were sitting on my desk.

That title of favourite ultimately belonged to the black opalin dial, which shines a bright spotlight on the line’s racing DNA via its black counters and contrasting red chronograph details. These vividly recall a car’s dashboard instrumentation and make the watch feel like the natural counterpoint to the panda reference, evoking a more expressive sense of racing passion in place of that watch’s quiet grit.

Regardless of how flashy you want your racing timepiece to be, each of these references is equally capable when it comes to the business of timekeeping, thanks to the in-house Calibre TH20-00, which keeps things running smoothly with 80 hours of power reserve. As you would expect, it can be observed through the display caseback along with its handsome TAG Heuer shield-shaped rotor.

With the Carrera Chronograph Sports, TAG Heuer has done an admirable job of producing a collection of racing watches that fills a crucial gap in its lineup. Pairing a reduced size with a more technical design language, these releases see TAG continue to stake its claim as the ultimate motorsport watchmaker, and based on what I’ve seen here, it’s hard to argue.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport (Blue) Key Specs:

• Reference: CDB2111.BA0054
• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.2 mm
• Water resistance: 100 metres
• Dial: Blue
• Bracelet: Stainless steel
• Movement: TH20-00
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$9,900

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport (Panda) Key Specs:

• Reference: CDB2113.BA0054
• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.2 mm
• Water resistance: 100 metres
• Dial: Silver
• Bracelet: Stainless steel
• Movement: TH20-00
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$9,900

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport (Green) Key Specs:

• Reference: CDB2112.BA0054
• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.2 mm
• Water resistance: 100 metres
• Dial: Green
• Bracelet: Stainless steel
• Movement: TH20-00
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$9,900

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport (Black) Key Specs:

• Reference: CDB2110.BA0054
• Case: Stainless steel
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.2 mm
• Water resistance: 100 metres
• Dial: Black
• Bracelet: Stainless steel
• Movement: TH20-00
• Power reserve: 80 hours
• Price: AUD$9,900

Hublot Welcomes Jeff Koons’ Balloon Dog Into the Family

Hublot’s latest effort is a collaboration with the renowned artist Jeff Koons, reinterpreting his famed air-sculpted dog into a trio of new red, silver, and blue timepieces.

Hublot is a watchmaker that consistently produces releases that are praised and derided in equal measure, but after seeing these releases in the flesh on Friday night, I have to say I’m on board. The iconic nature of Koons’ aesthetic translates surprisingly well here, and I have to give credit to Hublot’s designers and engineers for reinterpreting his work in a way that feels natural, rather than being forced.

While I could do without the nod to Koons’ dog’s tail at 10 o’clock (it feels superfluous and puts the whole thing off-balance) the rest of the elements here work well for me. From the air-sculpted bezel, dial, and bracelet elements (as well as the same treatment cleverly applied to the movement’s rotor), to the miniaturised recreation of the dog at the end of the seconds hand, Hublot’s Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons is an imaginative harnessing of a historic piece of design.

Ressence Invites You Into Its Maze

From one collaboration with an artist to the next, Ressence has continued its Art Watch series via an intriguing new team up with Belgian artist Jules Wittock. The partnership has produced a pair of TYPE 9 timepieces, limited to 30 pieces each, which feature a hand-drawn maze upon the dial. But it’s not any ordinary maze. Thanks to Ressence’s signature approach to watch design, it holds a secret that only the wearer can discover.

Wittock is known for tracing mazes freehand and across the Type 9 JWE (emerald green colourway), and Type 9 JWB (black colourway), he has deployed a miniaturised design that offers the wearer a single entrance, a single exit, and a path between them that spells a word.

As the watch’s elements rotate, it’s not until midnight that the maze aligns in such a way as to reveal its hidden message. This easter egg of sorts is a nod to Wittock’s childhood ritual of making wishes at times like 11:11 or 22:22.

Sadly, the message will remain a secret between the artist and the 60 lucky souls who secure one of these pieces.

In Other Watch News…

Rolex ‘Padellone’ Makes a Welcome Return

Rolex has gone digging through its back catalogue and revived one of the more unusual names from its calendar-watch history. The new Perpetual Padellone takes its name from the Rolex Ref. 8171 of the early 1950s, a complete-calendar moonphase that was nicknamed “Padellone” by Italian collectors. This vintage influence is plain to see, but Rolex has harnessed it via an entirely new annual-calendar movement, making this new Padellone the most mechanically ambitious addition yet to the Perpetual collection. At nearly AUD$83K, you won’t see many of them around, but to some extent its enough to know that they’re out there.

Alexander Zverev Triumphs Wearing a AUD$391,000 Jacob & Co. Watch

Following his victory at the 146th US Open to capture his second career Grand Slam title, Alexander Zverev donned a USD$280,000 (approx. AUD$391,698) Jacob & Co. ‘The World Is Yours’ Dual Time Zone Tourbillon. The 43-mm rose-gold timepiece is a significant departure from standard dual-time travel watches in that rather than relying on a traditional GMT hand, the self-winding Manufacture Calibre JCAA45 features two fully independent sub-dials driven by a central 30-second tourbillon. Placing a high-speed tourbillon directly in the centre of a dual-time display is a technical challenge and it positions the reference against the likes of Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey.