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Fifty years ago, Girard-Perregaux’s first Laureato watch set a new standard for sporty elegance. It demonstrated the kind of bold vision required to set rather than follow trends as executed by a watchmaker with an unwavering commitment to progress and the passion to design, develop, and produce watches entirely in-house. Now, the revered Swiss firm is celebrating its iconic Laureato collection’s half-century with the Laureato FIFTY, a stunning new automatic reference, limited to 200 pieces, that captures the spirit of the original Laureato by pushing the envelope further than ever before.
Boasting a contemporary take on the 1975 original’s bicolour aesthetic, the new release pairs it with an incredible new calibre and a range of meticulous modern touches that elevate the whole affair. This Laureato showcases how the family of watches from which it hails has constantly evolved over the last fifty years—each generation refining its design, optimising ergonomics, and enhancing mechanics—while staying ever true to its origins.
A Classic Reimagined
Beyond the Laureato range, this new watch is actually a standard bearer for Girard-Perregaux’s broader mission, held since the brand’s 1791 founding: a dual commitment to create watches with a distinctive design as well as the movements that power them. Girard-Perregaux’s heritage dates all the way back to watchmaker and goldsmith Jean-François Bautte, who grouped all the facets of watchmaking in-house for the very first time. This spirit of accountability is matched only by the brand’s passion for innovation and progress.
It was this commitment that made the first Laureato a reality, thanks to the firm’s landmark 1966 founding of a new quartz technology division within its research and development department, itself established in the 1950s. Determined to explore the potential of quartz, within five years the department would unveil the calibre GP350, a movement with a frequency of 32,768 Hz, which has since become the universal standard in the watchmaking industry. So far ahead of the quartz revolution was Girard-Perregaux that by 1977 (just two years after the launch of the original quartz-powered Laureato), 83 per cent of the quartz-related patents registered with the independent COSC (the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) came from the brand.
It’s only from this complete and utter devotion to developing expertise that both the first Laureato and now this anniversary piece were able to be created. The first had a set of visual signatures that made it unmistakable, including an octagonal bezel set on a circular base, a tonneau-shaped case, and an integrated bracelet. Now, these have been reimagined and refined for 2025 using Girard-Perregaux’s most advanced technologies. Boasting a new case measuring 39 mm in diameter and an incredibly svelte 9.8 mm thick, the Laureato FIFTY harnesses steel and 3N yellow gold to create something timeless and yet entirely modern. With sharper angles, more pronounced bevels, and even smoother integration of the bracelet, the tonneau case has been reworked superbly.
Turning to the octagonal bezel, here it alternates between satin and polished finishes, creating a subtle but stunning effect when struck by the light, much like the deep sunray grey dial, which sports a Clous de Paris pattern enhanced by indexes and hands of 3N gold. Further, the central seconds hand is balanced by the representation of GP’s double arrow emblem adopted for the counterweight, while the framed 3 o’clock date window is reminiscent of the 1975 original and boasts a disc that matches the dial’s colour, creating an understated effect that’s crucial for maintaining the overall elegance of the piece.
The exterior of this immaculate watch is completed with the steel and yellow gold bracelet, which pays tribute to the 1975 original. Using a tapered design with steel ‘H’ links that become progressively thinner towards the clasp, Girard-Perregaux has opted for slightly shorter links for the new model, allowing the bracelet to more closely mirror the curve of the wearer’s wrist. This comfort is enhanced by the deployment of a half-link adjustment, while aesthetics are optimised via a slightly more domed construction of the central gold links, the watchmaker’s way of playing with volumes and light.
Finally, the bracelet boasts a triple-folding clasp featuring the GP logo, which is also engraved on its inner blades. Octagonal push-pieces on the clasp provide a nod to the watch’s gorgeous bezel, which speaks to Girard-Perregaux’s holistic design approach, while the fine adjustment system means the bracelet can be adjusted with absolute precision by 4 mm, demonstrating the brand’s unwavering dedication to function.
Masters of the Modern Movement
While the original Laureato was at the cutting edge of quartz technology, the new Laureato FIFTY is similarly positioned in relation to automatic power, thanks to the development of the new Calibre GP4800. As you would expect, this movement has been created entirely in-house and features numerous advanced technical attributes that make it a marvel of modern watchmaking.
First, the movement accommodates the modern appetite for smaller cases through its incredibly compact design, measuring just 25.60 mm in diameter and 4.28 mm thick. It harnesses the attributes of silicium, an exceptionally smooth material that’s non-magnetic and highly resistant to wear, to craft its escapement, featuring an escape wheel, pallet lever and roller. The material’s resistance to wear is a boon for the mechanism’s reliability and longevity.
Further, the Calibre GP4800 features an upgraded winding system that features an oscillating mass mounted on a ball bearing. The ball bearing is set with ceramic balls and equipped with a shock-absorber system designed to reduce winding noise and to counter shocks for improved durability.
Similarly impressive is the GP4800’s superior variable-inertia balance, which enables the watch to be set with more precision. Here, the balance spring’s length is fixed, and the rate is altered by adjusting four white gold timing screws mounted on the rim of the balance wheel. Simultaneously, a powerful barrel plays host to the mainspring that delivers increased torque, offering better stability and enhanced precision.
As you might expect, the Calibre GP4800 is as aesthetically beautiful as it is technically impressive. Boasting 10 distinct types of finishing, the movement is immaculately finished and masterfully constructed. Taking inspiration from the brand’s rich heritage, it boasts a skeletonised 18K gold oscillating mass, beneath which sit three bridges, which draw inspiration from one of the oldest brand signatures in horology: Girard-Perregaux’s pocket watch of 1867.
Comprising the balance bridge, gear train bridge, and barrel bridge, these metal plates combine function and beauty with absolute symmetry, a guiding principle for the movement’s creation. Further, the openworked design of the balance bridge opens a view to the balance wheel’s rotation, the beat of the balance spring, and the silicium escapement’s spellbinding motion.
A Tribute to 50 Years and Beyond
Thanks to the storied legacy of Girard-Perregaux in contemporary fine watchmaking, the Laureato FIFTY is a tribute to more than just the five decades of innovation housed within one family of innovative watches. It embodies Girard-Perregaux’s 234 years of incomparable watchmaking and commitment to craftsmanship that refuses to compromise.
With the Laureato FIFTY, the master watchmaker has shown that there are always new obstacles to overcome and new triumphs to be had. It’s only by pairing the advanced technologies of today with an unshakable reverence for the heritage watches that something as truly exceptional as the Laureato FIFTY can come to be.
To discover this new masterpiece for yourself, visit The Hour Glass, Girard-Perregaux’s sole retailer in Australia and New Zealand.
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