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Breguet type xx 3

The Sky’s the Limit For Breguet’s Controversial New Type XX Chronograph


Luxury watchmaker Breguet is Swiss-based, but its roots lie firmly in France. With a pair of controversial new chronographs to unveil, it understandably chose Paris as the city to host the launch. And what better place than the Paris-Le Bourget Aviation Museum to drop a pair of watches inspired by the brand’s own aviation history? The museum has Breguet planes on display and was an ideal venue to showcase a watch referencing the French Air Force. But depending on your view of the humble date window, the new Type XX model Breguet is either soaring to new heights or flying by the seat of its pants.

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Type 20 Chronographe 2057 2057ST/92/3WU | Image: Breguet

There’s no doubt that the two new models have caused a stir in the world of watches. Breguet’s Type XX aviation chronograph is a much-loved watch that has bucketloads of history and it’s worth taking a minute to explain that popularity. When we talk of the Type XX model, we’re referring to a series of watches. First released in the 1950s, the original watch was built to specifications laid out by the French Air Force. The military version of the watch is the Type 20 and the Type XX was the moniker given to the slightly modified civilian version. Both watches were a hit with fans.

These latest iterations of Breguet’s pilot watch are not replicas of previous versions, but the manufacturer does point out the earlier watches that influenced the latest creations. 2023’s militaristic Type 20 pays homage to a watch Breguet supplied to the French Air Force during the late ’50s. The new release upgrades the case to 42mm, up from the 40mm case of the most recent version, and features a fluted bezel.

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Type XX Chronographe | Image: Breguet

The general aesthetic is faithful to the ’50s model and includes an authentic pear-shaped crown and a dial with a black galvanic treatment. The green lume means the dial is highly legible and the syringe hands reinforce the vintage styling. Remember, this is a chronograph so it has two practical subdials. This is definitely the purist’s watch.

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Type XX Chronographe 2067 2067ST/92/3WU | Image: Breguet

The civilian version is equipped with the same-sized case and is a direct descendant of the 1957 model. There’s a similar galvanic dial – albeit with an extra sub-dial – and retro-looking beige lume. Both models feature a new movement that has taken four years of development. The Type 20 has the 7281 and the Type XX the 728. And why the controversy? Both watches feature an unusual date window at 4.30 and there’s no option for a non-date variant.

Type 20 Chronographe 2057 2057ST/92/3WU | Image: Breguet
Type 20 Chronographe 2057 2057ST/92/3WU | Image: Breguet

Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057 2057ST/92/3WU

Diameter: 42mm
Height: 14.1mm
Case: Steel
Movement: Calibre 7281
Strap: Calf Skin and Fabric Nato
Water Resistance: 100M
Price: AUD $26,200

Type XX Chronographe 2067 2067ST/92/3WU | Image: Breguet
Type XX Chronographe 2067 2067ST/92/3WU | Image: Breguet

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 2067ST/92/3WU

Diameter: 42mm
Height: 14.1mm
Case: Steel
Movement: Calibre 728
Strap: Calf Skin and Fabric Nato
Water Resistance: 100M
Price: AUD $26,200