In the watch world, time never stands still, so allow us to catch you up on the latest news. In this edition of our regular watch column, The Wind Up, Grand Seiko unveils two new limited-edition re-creations of the 45GS, Audemars Piguet drops a ridiculous Code 11:59 selfwinding tourbillon chronograph, Rado dishes up an Open Heart True Square and Glashütte Original updates one of its best-loved chronographs. It’s been a blockbuster week in the world of watches, so strap in and enjoy.
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Re-Creations
- Brand: Grand Seiko
- Model: Heritage Collection 45GS Limited Edition
- Reference: Ref. SLGW004 / Ref. SLGW005
- Diameter: 38.8 mm
- Thickness: 10.2 mm
- Movement: Caliber 9SA4
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: €32,200 (SLGW004) / €10,400 (SLGW005)
When Grand Seiko unveiled the 45GS in 1968, it heralded a new era for the Japanese watchmaker’s high-precision movements. The unique timepiece was the natural and numerical evolution from the 44GS release the prior year and brought with it a more refined and elegant design language. This week, Grand Seiko again returned to the fabled 45GS collection, issuing two stunning new Heritage Collection recreations inspired by the 1968 original.
The new Heritage Collection 45GS Limited Edition models come equipped with the calibre 9SA4; Grand Seiko’s latest hand-wound, high-frequency mechanical movement. Following the same ethos as the original, this movement is designed to push the boundaries of high-rate stability in timekeeping. It beats 10 times per second and impressively, manages to dish up a solid 80 hours of power reserve when fully wound, courtesy of the Dual Impulse Escapement and twin barrels.
At 38.8 mm in diameter, Grand Seiko’s latest models land in that perfect sweet spot for dress watches, a fact that is further complemented by the angular case design. With both the stainless steel and 18k yellow gold models, Grand Seiko has opted for a mix of flat, mirror-polished surfaces and curved case sides, which further accentuates the ’60s aesthetic.
Both watches will be available as limited editions in November 2024. The yellow gold creation will be limited to Grand Seiko boutiques, and the stainless steel version will be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and select retail partners worldwide.
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph
- Brand: Audemars Piguet
- Model: Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph
- Reference: Ref. 26399NB.OO.D009KB.01
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Thickness: 13.8 mm
- Movement: Selfwinding calibre 2592
Leave it to Audemars Piguet to add a selfwinding tourbillon function to what is already one of the industry’s most impressive chronographs. With the new Code 11:59 model, the iconic independent watchmaker has succeeded in elevating haute horology to new heights. The 41 mm tourbillon chronograph boasts the brand’s calibre 2592 movement, a stunning mechanism that first appeared in the AP lineup back in 2020, which features a dedicated rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight.
Design-wise, the 41 mm timepiece is an absolute showstopper, arriving in a mix of black ceramic and 18-carat white gold, with much of the slate grey gradient work dedicated to the actual mechanism. The tourbillon movement is framed by a slate grey semi-matt inner bezel that has been finished with circular snailing, on which the seconds scale is printed in white. According to Audemars Piguet, the deep black ceramic chosen for this new model demonstrates the mastery of the manufacture’s engineers and watchmakers in the use of cutting-edge technologies.
“The manufacture of components in this technical material is particularly complex, from the creation of its secret formula, based on Zirconium Oxide powder (ZrO2), to the successive stages of production,” the brand wrote in a press release. “In particular, the ceramic loses about a quarter of its volume during the process, which maximises its resistance to scratches. Furthermore, the sintering process carried out at a temperature of over 1000°C, brings out the full intensity of the colour, which is enhanced by the refined finishes that adorn the case components.”
Unsurprisingly, Audemars Piguet has not let slip just how much of the new Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronographs will set you back, but you can imagine it will be anything but cheap. Nevertheless, it’s nice to have dreams, I guess.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph
- Brand: Glashütte Original
- Model: SeaQ Chronograph
- Reference: Ref. 1-37-23-03-80-70 (Metal bracelet) / Ref. 1-37-23-03-80-33/06 (black rubber strap) / Ref. 1-37-23-03-80-34/08 (orange synthetic strap)
- Diameter: 43.2
- Movement: Calibre 37-23 automatic
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Water-Resistance: 300 metres
- Price: From AUD$22,500
Glashütte Original’s SeaQ Chronograph remains one of my favourite dive watches of the last decade, so each time a new model is released, I take notice. This time around, the German watchmaker hasn’t disappointed. The latest lineup of SeaQ Chronographs goes back to basics, with a minimalistic black-and-white finish and a true ’60s-inspired “Silver Screen“ dial.
At 43.2 mm, the new models are a little heftier than I had hoped; however, the proportions do look on point, and I am a big fan of the black ceramic inlay on the unidirectional rotating bezel. The subtle monochromatic touches help to give the design a bit more depth whilst also maintaining legibility, something that Glashütte Original has long prioritised. Further to that, the new SeaQ Chronographs feature a 30-minute counter and small second auxiliary dials that have been lathe-cut and given a “vinyl” decorative finish. The black-and-white theme continues at 6 o’clock with the Panorama Date presenting white numerals on a black background.
Inside, you’ll find the in-house Calibre 37-23 automatic movement, Glashütte Original’s top-tier dive watch movement. Capable of pumping out 70 hours of power reserve and backed by a silicon balance spring for anti-magnetic purpose, the movement is a stellar addition to an already solid piece of gear. The new “Silver Screen” SeaQ Chronograph is available from September 2024 at all
Glashütte Original Boutiques and from official retailers worldwide.
Rado True Square Open Heart Limited Edition
- Brand: Rado
- Model: True Square Open Heart Limited Edition
- Reference: Ref. R27073752 / Ref. R27086752
- Diameter: 38 mm
- Movement: Rado calibre R734
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Water-Resistance: 50 metres
- Availability: Limited to 888 pieces
- Price: AUD$5,250
Rado is no stranger to the world of ceramic, and for its latest creation, the Swiss icon has again dabbled in the scratch-resistant material. The new True Square Open Heart Limited Edition model, which arrives in either a white high-tech ceramic or sandblasted titanium case, takes the classic square timepiece and gives it a fresh new look.
The first ever bicolour references in the True Square Open Heart collection, these new watches are powered by the Rado calibre R734, an automatic movement that delivers 80 hours of power reserve. Importantly, they also cop an antimagnetic Nivachron hairspring for enhanced accuracy with the movement holder featuring the iconic Côte de Genève pattern.
The inner workings are impressive, but the design of the new True Square models is what should garner mass acclaim, most notably on the black sandblasted model. This release’s black high-tech ceramic monobloc case and crown expertly complement the stunning polished black and white high-tech ceramic bracelet. From here, Rado has adorned the black and white vertically brushed dial with eight Top Wesselton full-cut diamonds and four black diamonds to mark the hours. Extravagant? Perhaps, but you can’t deny that Rado has created something very special with this one. Checkmate.
Both new Limited Edition True Square Open Heart timepieces feature Rado’s signature High Tech Ceramic Monobloc case and bracelet with open heart dial and 12 diamond indices. They are limited to 888 pieces worldwide and are priced at AUD$5,250.
Seiko x LARK Presage Cocktail Time Australasian Limited Edition
- Brand: Seiko
- Model: LARK Presage Cocktail Time Australasian Limited Edition
- Reference: Ref. SRPL20J
- Diameter: 40.5 mm
- Thickness: 11.8 mm
- Movement: Calibre 4R35
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Water-Resistance: 50 metres
- Availability: Limited to 1,000 pieces
- Price: AUD$950
Seiko’s much-loved Cocktail Time range has copped a fitting new addition, crafted in partnership with Tasmanian whisky legend LARK Distilling Co. The new Presage Australasian Cocktail Time Limited Edition is a stunning encapsulation of the brand’s prowess in the world of dress watches, a category that is traditionally overlooked when compared to Seiko’s stellar lineup of diving instruments. For this timepiece, Seiko called on LARK to craft a bespoke cocktail, the ‘Ichigo Ichie’, which served as the physical and visual inspiration.
As Seiko explained, Ichigo Ichie is a 16th-century Japanese proverb that roughly translates to ‘for this time only’ or ‘once in a lifetime’. Rooted in traditional tea ceremonies, the phrase “embodies the idea of being fully present and cherishing each moment as a singular experience that may never occur again”. With this in mind, Seiko’s watchmakers set their sights on creating a timepiece that encourages you to pause, reflect, and appreciate the moments that surround you.
The result is a stunning 40.5 mm Presage that arrives in an eye-catching rose gold tone-plated case. Inside , you’ll find the calibre 4R35 movement, which serves up 41 hours of power reserve, with the timepiece set on a black leather strap with a rose gold-coloured folding clasp. The exhibition case back of the timepiece is marked with the words “Limited Edition” and the serial number, allowing the wearer to view the automatic mechanical movement in action.
Meanwhile, the cocktail nods to the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, infusing Japanese shochu with sencha and hibiscus teas to bring the concept of “Ichigo Ichie” to life. Throw in a healthy dose of LARK’s Classic Cask Single Malt Whisky and a dash of champagne, and you have a cocktail that is more than worth your time.
The Seiko x LARK Presage Australasian Cocktail Time Limited Edition Ref. SRPL20J is priced at just AUD$950 and will be available from September 2024 at Seiko Boutiques and select retail stores across
Australasia. It is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, individually numbered, so get in quick.
