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You would think that after a week that saw Japanese watchmaker Seiko unveil a sophisticated ode to the humble Negroni, Piaget wrap its tiniest tourbillon in khaki green and Breguet drop a space-age marvel of modern watchmaking, there would be nothing left to reveal. But you’d be wrong. In this edition of The Wind Up, our regular series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, we’re shining a spotlight on the maisons and makers taking the industry in a bold new direction.
Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world’s biggest and brightest watchmakers, a few surprise announcements landed this week. Vacheron Constantin unveiled a stunning work of art, A. Lange & Söhne dropped the most remarkable of tourbillons and Audemars Piguet did its usual thing. Happy reading gents and have a fantastic week ahead.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time
- Reference: Ref. 7200A-000G-H103
- Diameter: 43mm
- Thickness: 13.58mm
- Material: White gold
- Movement: Calibre 3670
- Power Reserve: 144 hours
- Price: CHF400,000 (Limited to 20 pieces)
There is no birthday celebration quite like the one Vacheron Constantin is putting on this year. The iconic watchmaker, which marked 270 years of operation in 2025, has released a series of stellar timepieces that break the conventions of modern horology. None is more impressive than the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time. Perhaps the finest expressions of true watchmaking artistry meeting exceptional haute horlogerie, this timepiece captures the quintessential expressionism that underpins the brand’s remarkable history.
The 18k white gold release features a dragging double retrograde movement, which is operating by pressing the button at 10 o’clock. Once activated, either the hour is continuously indicated thanks to the titanium character’s arms, or the arms are fixed alongside the body. You’ll also find a six-day double sectorial power reserve display, combined with the hand-engraved precision 3D moon, to add to this timepiece’s incredible sophistication.
According to Vacheron Constantin, this complication requires just a single adjustment every 122 years, which is ridiculous in and of itself. At the back of the watch, there is also a ‘celestial vault’ that presents a sideral time reading and the observation of constellations from the northern hemisphere. This display is as novel as it is beautiful. One can only imagine the ingenuity and talent that sat behind the bench of the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon
- Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
- Model: 1815 Tourbillon
- Reference: REf. 730.094F
- Diameter: 39.50mm
- Thickness: 11.30mm
- Material: Platinum
- Movement: Calibre L102.1
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: USD217,800(Limited to 50 pieces)
When A. Lange & Söhne unveils a new timepiece, the watch world takes note. The German producer has no shortage of incredible watches under its belt, but there is just something special about the 1815 model. This year, the producer has treated us all to a stunning new interpretation, the black enamel dial 1815 Tourbillon. To call this piece simply a new release from one of the finest maisons on the planet would be an understatement — this is Lange at its best.
The latest 1815 Tourbillon sees the eponymous movement equipped with two additional functions: the stop-seconds device makes it possible to stop the tourbillon at will by pulling the crown and to precisely set the watch, a function that is not incorporated in conventional tourbillon constructions. Importantly, the new watch marks a first for the brand, with this release combining the stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon with the ZERO-RESET function. Due to this, the seconds hand jumps to the zero position, meaning that the minute hand can be precisely aligned with a minute marker.
The 1815 Tourbillon is perhaps the ultimate expression of restraint, of technique and of overarching watchmaking mastery. From the black enamel dial to the gleaming platinum case, all the way to that sumptuous tourbillon carriage, this is above and beyond what many can do.
Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218
- Brand: Panerai
- Model: Luminor Marina Militare
- Reference: Ref. PAM05218
- Diameter: 44mm
- Material: Steel (DLC coating)
- Movement: Calibre P.6000
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: USD8,800 (Limited to 500 pieces)
Panerai’s new Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 is true to form. Inspired by the 1993 reference 5218-202/A, it revisits Panerai’s rich history and heritage, harking back to its original precision instruments. First issued exclusively to the Italian Navy’s elite divers and commandos, Paneria’s pressure gauges and dive watches were sought after, but it wasn’t until the afforementioned 1993 Luminor Marina Militare 5218-202/A that the timepieces were made available to the public.
This faithful rendition marries the worlds of inspiration and contemporary watchmaking in one rather approachable package. At 44mm, the stainless steel dive watch maintains the same proportions as the original; however, this time, it has been elevated by the addition of a scratch-resistant DLC coating. Inside, you’ll find the hand-wound P.6000 calibre, which boasts a three-day power reserve and supreme accuracy.
Audemars Piguet Drops New Code and Royal Oak Models
Audemars Piguet has unveiled a slew of new updates to its Code 11.59 and Royal Oak models, specifically its Perpetual Calendars. Now available in 38mm, the Royal Oak and Code 11.59 have opened the door for many waiting for a smaller QP. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is available in stainless steel or rose gold (and in a limited edition 150th anniversary variant in both metals), while the Code 11.59 is only available in rose gold.
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