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Another week down, another round-up of all the latest watch news. Welcome to The Wind Up, our regular series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days. Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world’s biggest and brightest watchmakers, there were a few surprise announcements that landed this week. In this instalment, we’ll be featuring the latest chronograph from Roger Dubuis, a unique take on modern watchmaking from H. Moser & Cie. and Louis Erard’s surprisingly affordable approach to hand-engraving. Enjoy the read, and have a fantastic week ahead.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
- Brand: Roger Dubuis
- Model: Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
- Reference: Ref. RDDBEX1138
- Diameter: 45mm
- Thickness: 16.10mm
- Material: Pink gold
- Movement: Calibre RD 780
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: USD135,000 (Limited to 88 pieces)
There is a certain horological quality within the Roger Dubuis ranks that many people might not be aware of, and with the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, it is on full display. The unique tiempiece, which is a refreshed version of the 2023 chronograph of the same name, offers a remarkable interplay of design and structure.
The skeletonised chronograph arrives in a stunning 45mm pink gold and titanium case, adorned with Roger Dubuis’ signature triple lug design. As we’ve come to expect from the master watchmaker, the latest Excalibur Spider also features contrasting skeletonised pushers and a two-tone crown, alongside a 12° inclined balance and 120° Rotating Minute Counter. In a word, the watch is incredible, and you would be remiss to look past this work of mechanical art.
Inside, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph is powered by the RD780SQ automatic movement, which has been fully integrated into the openworked design, allowing for full visibility from all angles. According to the brand, the calibre offers a 72-hour power reserve and contains a whopping 310 components. Poinçon de Genève certified, a heaving mass of pink gold and an aesthetic that is wonderfully unique and contemporary, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph exudes character and esteem.
H. Moser & Cie. x Azuki Pioneer Tourbillon – Water
- Brand: H. Moser & Cie. x Azuki
- Model: Pioneer Tourbillon – Water
- Reference: Ref. 3804-0500
- Diameter: 40mm
- Thickness: 11.4mm
- Case Material: Titanium
- Movement: Calibre HMC 804
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water-Resistance: 120 metres
- Price: USD$75,000
Independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie.’s very capable and very practical Pioneer collection is back at its very best. Made in collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT and The 1916 Company, the Pioneer has returned in a new “Elements of Time” saga, representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water.
There are two models making up this new Pioneer “Elements of Time” collection. A time-only, which will be released in 24 editions of each variation, and a piece unique in each variation of a tourbillon model. While all releases are worthy of note, the Pioneer Tourbillon – Water is our pick of the bunch.
The timepiece is a true work of contemporary art, featuring an elegant, flowing guilloché rippling across the dial, a nod to Azuki’s elemental lore. The water fumé with engraved pattern is contrasted by applique indices, with hour markers in Super-Luminova and the slightly more modern leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, fitted with Globolight inserts.
Inside, the HMC 804 calibre anchors time, providing a minimum power reserve of three days. It utilises H. Moser & Cie.’s automatic bi-directional pawl winding system and houses an oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Super cool stuff.
Louis Erard Gravée Main
- Brand: Louis Erard
- Model: Gravée Main
- Reference: Ref. 34237GA82.BVAG170
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 12.25mm
- Material: Stainless steel
- Movement: Calibre SW261-1
- Power Reserve: 38 hours
- Price: CHF5,450 (Limited to 99 pieces)
Some things you admire from afar, often behind a rather thick pane of glass. Hand-engraved cases are an example of this, typically leaning towards five-figure and six-figure territory, but when Louis Erard enters the foray, you know something is up. The independent Swiss watch manufacturer has made a habit of producing timepieces that flow effortlessly across budgets, making traditional practices slightly more accessible to the contemporary collector.
The Gravée Main, Louis Erard’s latest effort, is a rather affordable hand-engraved watch finished by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. Shavlak’s unique work exudes a certain type of old-world luxury, best typified by the classical leaf motif across the bezel, case, crown and buckle. According to the maison, every metal element is fully hand-engraved and finished in a demanding process taking more than 50 hours.
Limited to just 99 pieces worldwide, the Louis Erard Gravée Main is priced at just CHF 5,450, a relative steal for this kind of timepiece. Oddly enough, however, the caseback doesn’t have any hand engraving, but beggars can’t be choosers, right?
OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M
- Brand: OMEGA
- Model: OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise
- Reference: Ref. 220.32.41.21.03.001 / Ref. 220.32.38.20.03.001
- Diameter: 41mm / 38mm
- Thickness: 13.26mm / 12.36mm
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Movement: OMEGA 8900 Calibre / OMEGA 8800 Calibre
- Power Reserve: 60 hours / 55 hours
- Water-Resistance: 150 metres
- Price: AUD$12,350
OMEGA’s fine roll continues. The Swiss luxury watchmaker has rounded out the week by dropping not one, but two new models to add to the ever-expanding Seamaster Aqua Terra collection. Available in either 38mm or 41mm case diameters, OMEGA’s latest effort is a more than capable diver watch that is as beautiful as it is practical.
The new watches follow a familiar pattern, reviving the gradient turquoise dial from last year. Vibrant and vivid, the unique hue is said to imitate colours that ‘shift like sunlight through water’, giving a stellar sense of aquatic adventure. The 2025 edition not only maintains the dial gradient, but also the trapezoid date window at 6 o’clock and a highly legible minutes track.
The most significant update to the model, however, is the bezel. While the previous iterations featured a polished stainless steel construction, the latest versions increase the rugged durability of the Aqua Terra collection with a scratch-resistant black ceramic bezel. As far as we can tell, it’s the very same ceramic bezel used in OMEGA’s Aqua Terra Worldtimer models; however, it’s the first time we’ve seen it on the 150M collection.
If you ask me, the smoked turquoise dial paired with a black ceramic dial looks the absolute business. These new references only come on a black rubber strap with matching turquoise-coloured stitching, and the effect is really lovely and seamless. Both the 38mm and 41mm references are priced at AUD$12,350 and arrive on an integrated black rubber strap, which includes turquoise stitching and a foldover clasp. I’m a big fan.
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