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You would think that after a week that saw TAG Heuer unveil two new tributes to the late, great Ayrton Senna and Breguet put some of its most historic pieces up for grabs, there would be nothing left to reveal. But you’d be wrong. In this edition of The Wind Up, our regular series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, we’re shining a spotlight on the maisons and makers taking the industry in a bold new direction.
A few surprise announcements landed this week alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world’s biggest and brightest watchmakers. Tissot dropped a stellar new edition to its much-loved PRX lineup, Breguet kept the anniversary party celebrations rolling and Ulysse Nardin confirmed that the Freak is back in action. For all these and more, take a gander at the biggest watch news of the week. Happy reading, gents, and have a fantastic week ahead.
Tissot PRX 38 Powermatic 80 Damascus Steel
- Brand: Tissot
- Model: PRX 38 Powermatic 80 Damascus Steel
- Reference: T137.807.96.081.00
- Diameter: 38mm
- Thickness: 10.98mm
- Material: Damascus steel
- Movement: Powermatic 80
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Price: AUD$1,735
It is no stretch to say that Tissot’s much-loved PRX lineup has democratised the realm of integrated-bracelet timepieces. Once upon a time, the thought of venturing into this highly elusive and equally expensive market niche would have been inconceivable. However, with Tissot’s PRX paving the way some four years ago, the door has been well and truly opened for many, many more affordable examples, and the collection remains top-tier value.
In its latest variation, the PRX is now available in a 38mm case size with a Damascus steel case and matching dial. It’s a rather polarising look that suits the PRX’s aesthetic, and in a sort of ultimate contrast, it comes on a black leather strap. Interestingly, the endlinks and buckle of the integrated-style rubber strap are also made of layered Damascus steel, maintaining a uniform aesthetic.
The use of Damascus here is masterful, both physically and philosophically. Not only does the material offer a stunning visual component, rich with curved waves and flowing lines, but it also speaks to the PRX’s reputation for durability, reliability and strength. Traditionally, Damascus steel was reserved for sword-making, with the technical application renowned for its tough, shatter-resistant properties. As Tissot’s true ‘go-anywhere, do-anything’ watch, the PRX is a worthy recipient of the material, even if the updates are purely cosmetic. There is no reinventing the wheel here, just rinse and repeat, but in the best of ways.
Breguet Classique 7235
- Brand: Breguet
- Model: Classique 7235
- Reference: 7235BH/02/9V6
- Diameter: 39mm
- Thickness: 9.90mm
- Material: Breguet gold
- Movement: Calibre 502.3.DRL
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Price: CHF65,000 (Limited to 250 pieces)
Breguet has been walking the fine line between obscurity and cult-like popularity for quite some time now, but in its 250th year, the maison has truly come into its own. After dropping a series of anniversary edition models and celebratory special releases, such as the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 and Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU, Breguet has unveiled its latest masterpiece. The Classique 7235 is a nod to the true design codes of the past, crafted from Breguet gold, a warm-toned material that looks exceptional.
The latest timepiece draws inspiration from one of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most intricate pieces, the No. 5 pocket watch from 1794. That original model laid the foundations for what would become the Breguet house style, most notably through integrations such as the silvered guilloché dial, off-centred indication, and, of course, the blued steel Breguet hands.
The 2025 edition, Breguet Classique 7235, revisits these thematic elements in wristwatch form. Measuring 39mm in diameter and 9.9mm thick, the timepiece is slim and sleek by design, but it is far from subtle. The entire face of the watch is crafted from Breguet gold and features hand-applied guilloché techniques. On the dial, you’ll find the power reserve at 10:30, the moon phase at 1:30, and a small seconds function located towards the bottom.
Powering all this is the calibre 502.3.DRL, a self-winding movement equipped with a silicon balance spring and an offset oscillating weight. As impressive as the 7235 is to look at, with multiple dial finishing techniques and some very welcoming dimensions, one of the highlights here is the soft launch of those tapered lugs, a move away from the rather unconventional and unsightly (is that too harsh?) straight-soldered lugs. Breguet at its finest!
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel
- Brand: Ulysse Nardin
- Model: Freak S Enamel
- Reference: 2513-500LExx
- Diameter: 45mm
- Thickness: 16.65mm
- Material: Titanium
- Movement: UN-251
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: CHF153,000 (Limited to 50 pieces in each colour)
Tantamount to wearing a UFO on your wrist, the Star Trek-like Freak S is back in its most vivid form yet. Available with either a red or blue enamel dial and clad in titanium, the Freak S Enamel builds upon a foundation that is already beyond exception.
Created as part of a yearlong celebration of artisanal métiers d’art, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel is a fusion of innovation and design, with a distinctly UN-edge. Featuring vibrant turquoise blue and deep ruby red enamel discs, these timepieces are described as ‘bold expressions of high watchmaking elevated by artistic mastery’.
Inside the 45mm titanium case, the new Freak models are powered by the Calibre UN-251, a self-winding movement that features a whopping 373 parts and 33 jewels. The internal source provides a 72-hour power reserve, with the flying carousel movement rotating around its own axis. You’ll also find two 20-degree-inclined oversized oscillators with silicon balance wheels and a vertical differential with ball bearings.
The sheer watchmaking behind the Freak S is astounding, so laying it in front of these highly colourful enamel dials is the ideal way to add even more focus on the insanity that is the time-telling carriage. Each edition is released in an exclusive limited series of 50 pieces. Spectacular!
Richard Mille RM 63-02 Automatic Worldtimer
- Brand: Richard Mille
- Model: RM 63-02 Automatic Worldtimer
- Reference: RM 63-02
- Diameter: 47mm
- Thickness: 13.45mm
- Material: Rose gold and titanium
- Movement: CRMA4
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Price: USD275,000 (Limited to 100 pieces)
It’s big, it’s bold, it’s brash, and it’s about as Richard Mille as any Richard Mille can get it. The latest RM 63-02 Automatic Worldtimer takes the classic avant-garde design language and reimagines it in austere pink gold, adorning it with a white elastomer strap. You would be remiss to think that this is an all-show-no-go kind of watch from Richard Mille, but the RM 63-02 goes a step beyond that in a sort of ultimate flex.
Remarkably, the timepiece does not use a crown or pushers to adjust the time, but rather, utilises an integrated mechanism that fits neatly into the rotating bezel. To use the world timer function, simply turn the bezel to the desired city. It’s an easy enough function to use, but its design and execution are anything but that. Richard Mille has this innate ability to mask its true inner complexities, something that many seem to overlook.
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