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You would think that after a week that saw TAG Heuer unveil its most advanced smartwatch to date and Hamilton share a special Call of Duty iteration of its much-loved Khaki Field watch, there would be nothing left to reveal. But you’d be wrong. In this edition of The Wind Up, our regular series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, we’re shining a spotlight on the maisons and makers taking the industry in a bold new direction.
A few surprise announcements landed this week alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world’s biggest and brightest watchmakers. Hublot teamed up with one of the world’s premier visual artists, Audemars Piguet dropped the fifth and final instalment of its RD series, and A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a stunningly refined new dresswatch. Happy reading, gents, and have a fantastic week ahead.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5
- Brand: Audemars Piguet
- Model: Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5
- Reference: Ref. 26545XT.OO.1240XT.01
- Diameter: 39mm
- Thickness: 8.10mm
- Material: Titanium and palladium
- Movement: Calibre 8100
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: CHF260,000 (Limited to 150 pieces)
The fifth and final instalment of Audemars Piguet’s RD series is here, and it is perhaps the best of them all. The Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 is an exceptional timepiece that embodies the pioneering spirit and design ingenuity that have for decades underpinned the collection. Much like its predecessors, this watch is undeniably the pinnacle of what the maison can do.
Designed specifically to celebrate Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 is powered by the all-new Calibre 8100 movement. According to the brand, the new innovation combines the precision of a flyback chronograph with the artistry of a flying tourbillon, perfectly marrying the worlds of form and function.
The timepiece itself is crafted from titanium and precious bulk metallic glass (BMG) and features a glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback. Limited to just 150 pieces worldwide, the RD#5 boasts a range of technical feats, including overarching lightness, an instantaneous-jumping minutes counter, thinness, comfortable chronograph pusher feedback, and a look very reminiscent of Royal Oaks from yesteryear.
Hublot MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire
- Brand: Hublot
- Model: MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire
- Reference: Ref. 917.NJ.6909.RX
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 15.35mm
- Material: Titanium and sapphire
- Movement: Calibre HUB1205
- Power Reserve: 10 days
- Price: USD69,000 (Limited to 99 pieces)
Hublot is no stranger to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. Over the years, the avant-garde producer has released a string of intricate, innovative, and often divisive timepieces that blur the line between craftwork and horology. In more recent years, Hublot has leaned into its artistic nature, tapping creatives like Daniel Arsham for one-off pieces such as the Droplet pocket watch. Now, the dream team is back at it again, unveiling a new take on that same design, however, with more commercial undertones woven throughout.
Building on the startling nature of the original Droplet design, New York City-based Daniel Arsham has reworked the architecture of the contemporary wristwatch to create the MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire.
The awe-inspiring timepiece is crafted in a titanium and sapphire case that looks eerily similar to a water droplet, courtesy of its fluid, flowing nature. The openworked dial creates a stunning contrast between the natural look of the case and the industrial aesthetic of the mechanism, complementing both sides of the watch’s almost yin-yang look.
Importantly, this isn’t just wearable art, with Hublot fitting the new timepiece with a slimline case and arguably its most impressive movement. The compact 42mm case size has been made possible through the integration of Hublot’s new, smaller Meca-10, an in-house manual-wind movement that can be seen through the dial opening and sapphire caseback. Limited to only 99 pieces, the Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire is available at Hublot boutiques and authorised retailers.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty
- Brand: Girard-Perregaux
- Model: Laureato Fifty
- Reference: Ref. 81008-63-3412-1CM
- Diameter: 39mm
- Thickness: 9.80mm
- Material: Stainless steel and yellow gold
- Movement: Calibre GP4800
- Power Reserve: 55 hours
- Price: CHF25,500 (Limited to 200 pieces)
No one does a birthday party quite like Girard-Perregaux. To mark the 50th anniversary of the much-loved Laureate collection, the maison unveiled a bold, new take on the classic design. Drawing inspiration from the 1975 original, the all-new Laureato Fifty has a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold with proportions that aficionados will love.
Sleek and slimline at just 39mm in diameter and 9.8mm thick, this new timepiece has a true vintage aesthetic that harks back to a simpler time in watchmaking. The signature tonneau profile and an octagonal bezel scream 1970s charm, and the mix of steel and gold feels as timeless as ever. Of course, you’ll find Girard-Perregaux’s classic “Clous de Paris” dial front and centre, providing an unmistakable aesthetic that just feels right.
Powering the Laureato Fifty is Girard-Perregaux’s brand-new in-house calibre GP4800. This kind of resolute dichotomy between traditional styling and modern engineering is something that I really love to see. Faultless.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx
- Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
- Model: Saxonia Thin Onyx
- Reference: 211.052; 211.062
- Diameter: 40mm
- Thickness: 6.20mm
- Material: Honeygold; Platinum
- Movement: Calibre L093.1
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: Price on request (Limited to 200 pieces in each metal)
Elegant, understated and quintessentially Lange, the Saxonia Thin is often the gateway for many collectors interested in experiencing A. Lange & Söhne. In any of its many iterations, the Saxonia Thin serves as the perfect starting point for many, and in its two latest guises, that sentiment is more apparent than ever.
Available in either Honeygold or platinum, both with an incredible polished onyx stone dial, the new A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx models are, in a word, astonishing. Measuring 40mm by 6.2mm, they occupy a unique spot in the dress watch market, providing some serious wrist real estate sans the bulky frame. Inside, they are powered by the manually wound Calibre L093.1, a movement that boasts a remarkable 72-hour power reserve despite its tiny 2.9mm thickness.
The balance of the gleaming platinum and the deep warmth of the Honeygold set against the almost ultimate blackness of the onyx dial is phenomenal. To be honest, were I in the fortuitous position to purchase one or the other, I would have to flip a coin, they’re both that good. Heads or tails?
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