At long last, Anthony Vaccarello’s new Saint Laurent collection has been unveiled, with the YSL artistic director pulling no punches on his way to a new fashion era. Presented in the rotunda Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection museum, Vaccarello’s new vision of dramatically attenuated silhouettes was on full display, playing off the structure-within-a-structure architecture. Needless to say, it was a stunning ode to the great fashion language of old.
Straight off the bat, there were nods to past collections, with the iconic O shape theme, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, again playing an integral part in the show. This time around, the O shape was somewhat reminiscent of the circular mirage pond of the Saint Lauren Spring Summer 2023 collection, however, Vaccarello’s Saint Lauren Men’s Winter 23 collection’s staging had a decidedly more industrial feel. A gleaming concrete cylinder with a luminous circle sat at the centre of the staging, complete with a restrained palette of black, white, camel, navy, and flashes of silver which YSL says represented a sense of “bold sophistication”.
Guests were treated to a spectacle as the Belgian designer embraced minimalism in this new collection. Models took to the stage in floor-hugging overcoats, some with ultra-sharp shoulders while others were more relaxed alongside broad lapel detailing appeared in wool, cashmere, mohair, smooth leather as well as glistening patent leather fabrications. Importantly, this new collection played off traditional masculine and feminine themes, attacking the runway with a far more fluid approach than previous seasons.
Watching Anthony Vaccarello’s latest Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 23 collection, it is easy to see why the designer is known as the master of proportions. A number of designs featured necks that were exaggeratedly tied in flourishing bows or with sunk funnel-necks. Also making an appearance were tailored smoking jackets, the cache-coeur draped tops and chest-revealing cowl-front silk shirts that plunge into wrapped cummerbunds.
The collection’s hooded pieces and knitwear tunics were slipped underneath sharp-shouldered trench coats as well as dress-length mohair turtlenecks that came up to cover the mouth. Beautifully designed and effortlessly minimal, the latest Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 23 collection brings a new level of androgyny to the runway and we’re here for it. Check out the full Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 23 Show below.