Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom watch with intricate black dial and gold accents on a dark background.

The Wind Up – Watch News #122

Mr Dimitri Tsilioris
By Mr Dimitri Tsilioris - News

Updated:

Readtime: 7 min

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Another week has come and gone, and to celebrate we’ve got another instalment of our regular series, The Wind Up. In this week’s round-up we’ve got the latest pieces from the likes of Greubel Forsey, Ulysse Nardin and Glashutte Original. As always gents, sit back and enjoy!

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Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1

Whenever Greubel Forsey drops a new piece, the horological world at large tends to drop whatever it is that it was doing at the time and give the new release its undivided attention. Introducing the Hand Made 1, the newest Greubel Forsey masterpiece to be unveiled. The Hand Made 1 has almost all of its parts being made by hand, with an estimated 95% of the entire watch being painstakingly and meticulously tended over the course of an incredible 6,000 hours (or about 3 years of workmanship). This is truly an industry first and of course Greubel Forsey in all of its madness is at the forefront of this spectacular feat. Featuring the almost expected extraordinary aesthetic that Greubel Forsey is known for, the Hand Made 1 represents the purity of watchmaking and the romanticism of the process of putting together a haute horlogerie timepiece before the intervention of machinery.

  • Brand: Greubel Forsey
  • Model: Hand Made 1
  • Case Diameter: 43.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.5mm
  • Case Material: 18k white gold
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Movement: Calibre Hand Made 1, manual winding, one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, 21,600 vph (3Hz), 308 components (approx. 95% hand-finished)
  • Power Reserve: 60 hours
  • Strap: Calfskin leather with 18k white gold pin buckle
  • Price: Approx. USD$830,000

Shop Greubel Forsey hand-made watch

Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom watch with a skeletonised black dial, rose gold hands, and a black leather strap
The Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom features a striking skeletonised dial design

Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom

In collaboration with Devialet, a super exclusive high-end wireless speaker manufacturer comes the latest beast from the Ulysse Nardin coffers, the Hourstriker Phantom. Featuring a very thin membrane-like film underneath the watch that acts like an amplifier, the Hourstriker Phantom is a novel approach to the romanticism of a striking watch. Interestingly enough, one of the descendents of the Ulysse Nardin family, Emmanuel Nardin, is one of the founders of Devialet. A match made in heaven? Perhaps — but one thing is for sure, I can’t wait to hear this thing chime!

  • Brand: Ulysse Nardin
  • Model: Hourstriker Phantom
  • Reference: 6103-132
  • Case Diameter: 43 mm
  • Case Material: Polished titanium
  • Water Resistance: 30 m
  • Movement: Automatic, Calibre UN-610; striking mechanism chimes on the hour and half-hour on demand
  • Power Reserve: 42 hours
  • Strap: Black alligator leather, pin buckle
  • Price (at launch): CHF 72,500

Shop Ulysse Nardin watches

A man in a black Panerai wetsuit underwater with arms crossed wearing a Panerai dive watch
A diver wearing a Panerai wetsuit and watch submerged underwater

Panerai Comsubin & Guillaume Nery Experiences

Fortunate clients of Panerai’s new Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech and Submersible Chrono Guillaume Nery Edition were each treated to a super unique experience. For those who purchased the Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech, the experience entailed a two-day experience at the legendary “Teseo Tesei” naval base in La Spezia, Italy. Under the supervision of the Operational Divers Group and Operational Raiders Group, the experience involved extreme activities, the same that Navy special forces would undergo. And for those who purchased the Submersible Chrono Guillaume Nery Edition, a diving expedition was arranged in Moorea based in French Polynesia. Awesome to see a brand reach out to its customers and provide such amazing experiences like this.

Shop Panerai watches

Two Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph watches with grey and green dials resting on a mossy log outdoors
The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date in two distinct dial colours

Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

New from Glashutte Original is the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. Available with either a subtle grey dial or a distinct bright green graduated dial, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is available in a limited run of 100 pieces in each dial colour. While I am, admittedly, not the biggest fan of square watches, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date does have a fair bit of appeal to it. I much prefer the darkness of the grey model over the loud green, but I can definitely see why someone would buy the green one, too. A lovely dial layout, a big date window and recessed chronograph pushers make the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date a big winner in my books.

  • Brand: Glashütte Original
  • Model: Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
  • Reference: 1-37-02-05-02-35 (grey/leather) · 1-37-02-04-02-35 (green/leather) — limited to 100 pieces per colourway
  • Case Diameter: 40 mm (square with rounded corners)
  • Case Thickness: 14.1 mm
  • Case Material: Stainless steel (polished)
  • Water Resistance: 100 m
  • Movement: Glashütte Original Calibre 37-02, automatic flyback chronograph, column wheel, 28,800 vph
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours
  • Strap: Calf nubuck leather with fold clasp (steel bracelet variant also available)
  • Price: Approx. USD 12,700 (at launch)

Shop the Seventies Chronograph at Glashütte

A Tissot Gentleman watch with a blue sunray dial and stainless steel bracelet on a white surface
The Tissot Gentleman features a striking blue dial and Powermatic 80 movement

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium

With a look and feel that is very typical of many other steel watches, Tissot’s Gentleman is the quintessential daily wearer that can be dressed up or down. Some may lay claim to a very no-frills look, but in my opinion the Gentleman is all about executing the simple things. A well made watch is a well made watch, and the Gentleman seems to be just that. Featuring a 40mm wide steel case with either a white, black or blue dial, there seems to be enough choice to appeal to the mass market. Powered by an automatic movement (in this case, the Powermatic 80), the Gentleman does have the benefit of being a mechanical watch, thus also appealing to a market more willing to part with A$1,250.00 for a timepiece. I rather like the look of the Gentleman. The contrast between the polished and brushed links of the bracelet is cool, as is the polished bezel. I’d probably be picking the blue dial, then the black dial, and then finally the white dial variants, in that order, too. A big yes from me.

  • Brand: Tissot
  • Model: Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium
  • Reference: T127.407.11.041.00
  • Case Diameter: 40 mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.5 mm
  • Case Material: 316L stainless steel
  • Water Resistance: 100 m (10 bar / 330 ft)
  • Movement: Tissot Powermatic 80 (cal. 80.811), automatic, silicon balance spring
  • Power Reserve: 80 hours
  • Strap: Stainless steel 3-link bracelet, butterfly clasp with push-buttons
  • Price: AUD$1,440

Shop the Tissot PRX Powermatic

A MVMT chronograph watch with a black dial, blue accents, and a black leather strap on a grey stone surface
The MVMT chronograph features a sleek black design with striking blue accents

MVMT x Skateboarder Nyjah Huston

In collaboration with renowned skateboarder Nyjah Huston comes the latest piece from the super contemporary MVMT watch company. For those of you who don’t know, Nyjah Huston has won an incredible 12 X Games gold medals and 6 SLS World Championship Titles. The watch personifies his incredible approach to his art and features a darkened look accentuated by a lighter strap embossed with graphics inspired by Nyjah Huston’s own ink. It also features the skateboarder’s personal logo on the dial, along with an asphalt-inspired colour palette that looks fantastic.

If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of horology.

VISIT HAULOGERIE HERE

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  • Brand: MVMT
  • Model: Nyjah Huston x MVMT Signature Watch
  • Reference: 28000036
  • Case Diameter: 40mm
  • Case Thickness: 11mm
  • Case Material: Gunmetal ion-plated stainless steel
  • Water Resistance: 5 ATM
  • Movement: Quartz chronograph
  • Strap: Pebbled asphalt-grey leather with debossed all-seeing eye motif; interchangeable stainless steel mesh also included
  • Price (at launch): USD$180
Mr Dimitri Tsilioris

Contributor

Mr Dimitri Tsilioris

Dimitri Tsilioris is a watch enthusiast and founder of watch blog, Haulogerie. From his daily updates on his Instagram page (@haulogerie), to his constant and borderline excessive pursuit of the perfect watch, Dimitri lives and breathes horology. A passion that ...

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